Here are some links to chew on. Probably a lot of repeats from what has been stated here.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/577318-replacing-all-suspension-bushings-911sc.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/545717-911-sc-upgrades.html

Grady Clay comments in this one.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/251403-got-bit-money-what-would-you-recommend-sc-upgrades.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/10077-cis-efi-conversions.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/33313-what-can-you-do-80-sc-get-better-performance.html

Without spending huge amounts of money your 911 SC can run with and be more fun than most modern cars and definitely cars of the era up to 1994. I have run side to side with a 3.6 Carrera up hill, at altitude, with my 82 911 SC. Of course the 915 transmission is geared lower and after 80 mph this advantage, is gone you are no longer in the game with the 3.6 liter with the G50 transmission. But how do you do this? First, reduce weight, race seats, fiber glass bumpers and remove air conditioning. Wheel up grades, make them light. Exhaust, cat removed. If you have extra cash, 964 cams, ti connecting rods, larger air intake box, MSD ignition, Carrera up grades and Turbo valve covers. Suspension, all Turbo upgrades, and torsion bars, Bilsteins, lower chassis. Now you have it, with good tires you can run with most modern equipment, if you can drive a 911 well.

Absolute "must have" is the pop-off valve in the air box.

I have owned SC's for close to 20 years now. And IMO, the best mod for the buck is a Fabspeed cat by-pass. It saves a few pounds, it may eliminate an old, clogged cat, but most importantly it lets through the beautiful noises the 3.0 makes.

As for brakes, Call Steve at Rennsport in Portland and order Mintex Red Box pads.

For street driven car, that is all you need. . . But probably not all you want. :D

I hate to have to point this out but you guys are replying to a thread from a couple of years ago...

JR

Only two years? Seems like its even more relevant today. More valuable, more special, more sweetness in many aspects. Simplicity is even more distinguished than ever.

Diverdan

I have a '78 SC and did everything here aside from tensioners, SSI's and stainless brake lines.

I've also lightened the car ~215lbs, basically removed cat and muffler, and a number of other non-performance enhancing but overall "mods".

It's the most visceral thing I've ever driven and it's always sad to watch the garage door close behind her...

HOWEVER, You must prioritize as this has cost close to $11k...and the SSI's and Tensioners aren't "low-buck" upgrades by any means...

Subscribed. Thread still relevant! :D

First I'd get it back to what it was....replace bushings in the A arms, sway bars, trailing arms, spring plates, check your shocks for wear. Inspect front T bars for rust/pitting.
While doing this I'd change the sways to Carrera sways 22/21 from the SC 20/19.
Steering should be tight, replace the bushing in the column under the steering wheel, upgrade to turbo tie rods.
Replace/inspect all shift bushings at the gear lever and coupler.
Replace tranny/engine mounts...they degrade.
Dump the almost worthless AC (some do, some don't...I did as I wanted a lighter car as 100 lbs.= 10 hp.) ok, that's not a must do.
Make sure your wur is operating at spec./same for the fuel head.
Adjust AFR and a good tune up w/valve job....get a leak down for a base number.
Then,
Dump the cat and get SSI's, a stock style Dansk banana muffler two in one out will actually be the best for torque and street HP.
IOTW, get it properly stock and running as it should, handling as it should then decide on upgrades.
Have fun.

If you plan to do much drivers ed/tracking, an auxillary oil cooler is a must. SC's are way under cooled (oil) when driving aggressively over a period of time.

I didn't go down the oil fed tensioner route. I replaced with stock. I discussed this at length with my local dealer who pointed out that oil fed ones can and do fail as well. He also believed that Porsche supplied originals are now improved over ones fitted when my car was new and I should expect them to last longer. As the originals lasted 75k miles and my mileage per year is low, I will be about 125 years old before they need doing again. So I have a tidier engine bay, less joints for oil leaks, and a few dollars left in the kitty from the cost saving!

Agree, I've a Carrera rad cooler unit/fan and that is the way to go. The block off and forced air make a dif

I have a IROC style front valence. Does it make more sense to run a center mount cooler in tandem with the trombone or should i upgrade to the carrera cooler and call it a day?

Here was my list. Many were already done, lucky me. Bold are stressed items that I think often are overlooked.

930 tie rods
Hydraulic tensioners
Shifter bushings and upgrade to solid linkage by input shaft
930 valve covers on bottom
new headlight switch
new turn stalk/switch
hl relay kit
fuel sender
oil temp sender
ground strap by transmission (oil and corrosion = too much resistance)
Valve adjustment
free-flowing exhaust
Brake fluid flush (every 5 years or so if you drive it much)
adjust the damned brake pedal so you can reach it and throttle at the same time
Recaros

I have a center mounted oil cooler. I bypassed the stock cooler. Oil temp is rock solid regardless of the exercise mode.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453836346.jpg

My 2 cents......(in addition to the above considerations)

- volt meter (I prefer analog/real meter)
- seats / belts that hold you in place.
- head stud check (every oil change)

I didn't go down the oil fed tensioner route, either. My mechanic recommended and installed Turbo tensioners with the "anti-collapse collars" 15 years ago, and I have had no failures.
The MSD ignition and SSI's / Dansk dual-in/dual-out Sport muffler made a HUGE difference on the butt dyno.
I am going to upgrade the oil cooler this year, even though I don't track the 911SC.
I've heard so much about the unavailability of parts, and the devastating effects of ethanol on the CIS systems, I've considered installing an EFI system, and cleaning and storing the CIS for future owners (son and grandson). Thoughts on EFI? SmileWavy

The previous posters have great advice. I did SSIs and a sport muffler, but also pulled about 150 lbs of dead weight out of it which gives you faster acceleration and braking.

I pulled the center console, worthless AC, back seat backs, heater blower motor when backdating heat, changed bumper shocks for crush tubes, pulled the spare and added Fix-a-Flat and tire plugs, switched the heavy metal engine cover for fiberglass and lost the rear overriders. Other heavy weight items are the power seats at about 50lbs each. You can replace both for half the weight. Weight is the enemy. The more you lose the faster your car accelerates due to less mass and most of this is free other than the rear deck lid.

16x9 fuchs on the rear

Was returning to edit my post when Ferraripete beat me to it, but I was going to add 16X7s in front too. Actually mine are 17s just to have a better selection of tires.

I'd just do the Carrera unit...can't imagine needing any more cooling for a 3.0. I run my '83 euro in 110 degree ambient Az summers (75 mph trip to/from Phx) and don't see 210 often. That is without the fan going (I have it switched so I control it). At hot idle summer I'm still at 1 bar plus. The fan does a great job in stop/go heat.
This time of year I block off the scoop I have in place.