What are the MUST mods/improvements for 911SC?
 

Starting with a stock car, what are the MUST mods/improvements for:

Lowered suspension/handing:
- Bilstein shocks
- Turbo tie rods
- What else?

Braking:
- Bigger rotors (if yes which ones?)
- Pads for street

Engine:
- Performance mods?
- Mods to improve engine robustness?

I am trying to educate myself on 911SC mods to not only improve the performance but the overall robustness of the car. I know many install turbo or later model 911's parts, if there is a link even better.

I think you need to define the end use for the car to really get meaningful answers. For a street-driven car, the vast majority of an SC is perfectly fine in stock form.

For instance, you can't put "bigger rotors" on an SC without also changing the calipers. Carrera calipers are an "improvement", but on a street-driven SC, you'd never be able to tell the difference, so is it really a "must have" mod?

The SC is a tough little bastard to start with.

CIS cars benefit from SSI's and a muffler to suit , or at least a cat delete.
Some upgrade to 964 cams.
Then it gets expensive - carbs , EFI etc etc

Handling - good tyres , a strut brace if you autoX or track it. Bilsteins are good.
Lots of potential with torsion bars and sway bars, depends on your expected usage. You can't have everything i.e. inverse relationship b/w handling and comfort.

The stock brakes are very good.
Better pads will help on the track.
Yes , you can put bigger brakes on. Depends on what you are wanting to achieve.

Other mods - little things like a voltmeter , dash light improvements , I just put a mechanical brake light switch in.

And replace all old rubber. All. Including fuel and oil lines.
That will empty your wallet , but make the car robust and reliable.

They are tough , reliable when set up as the factory intended , and as they say pretty bulletproof. Preventative maintenance keeps them that way!

I'd just add the air box "valve" to prevent damage. New air box is close to $500.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 10-0843-000-M253

+1 on IROC

The number of modifications you can do to a SC are endless. So like IROC said you need to know what you want to spend and what kind of car you want to end up with.

The only suggestions I can make is to determine what is worn, and start your improvements there.
How are you shifter and coupler bushings? Old CIS systems develop a lot of leaks effecting performance. Maybe thats a good place to start. But not if your goal is to convert to carbs.

Remember with every "improvement" you make there is a down side. Be it driveability, reliability, or functionality.

A pop-off valve for your airbox and oil-fed timing chain tensioners are standard mods. These might already be done.

Brakes: These are fine as is. The SC is not under-braked. Yes, track pads are recommended for the track, but not necessary for the street.

Suspension, etc.: Chances are you are due for new suspension bushings, at least for the f/r torsion bars. Rubber is fine, polybronze is better, but only necessary for serious track junkies. To stiffen the suspension, you can get new / bigger torsion bars, and new shock inserts, which are probably getting worn by now.

Performance: As previously mentioned, SSI headers (if you want heat), or any 1-5/8 headers, if heat is not important, and a 2-in sport muffler - dansk, M&K ... Thats should give you a few horses and a wider power band.

I wouldn't go crazy with the mods until you have the rest of the car sorted, like ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, shift coupler bushings, suspension bushings, etc.

Relays for the headlights.

I have a very stock 1980 SC. It has a pop-off valve, oil-fed tensioners, H4 lights with higher wattage bulbs and LOTS of maintenance.

I will say that the SC's are really a fantastic platform. Not fast but balanced. If you are looking or own one. Take the time to go through it as they will all have needed maintenance issues. Get that up to speed and drive it. You might love it.

A non-stock item that I enjoy are my h4's which are pretty nice. I think I run 65/85 Osram bulbs. Not crazy and I didn't do a relay. A relay is a good idea however.

I have stock brakes and have Mintex pads (from Pelican) that I am very happy with. They have better friction when they get a little hot but are just fine for driving the street.

Can I get more power out of my CIS? Probably. Do I need it? Not really. Does my suspension need a refresh? Yes. Will I go crazy? No.

I read once that a 911 is the perfect daily driver / sports car. And I agree. I have had mine in lots of rain. A little snow. And plenty of dry. I daily drive it. It is reliable and fun.

If you want a hot rod, you can make it into one or buy one.

A stock SC is a lovely balance however. The more I drive mine, the better I like it.

Larry

When I shopped for my SC, I had a list of mods I wanted already done (so I wouldn't have to)

Oil-fed tensioners for increased reliability
Pop-off valve to save potential expense
H4's, I like to see where I'm going at night
Turbo tie rods to improve steering

That is it. I figured the rest of the stock package was just fine for my purposes (daily driver and occasional AX) and left enough for me to change and make it my own.

I didn't get the turbo tie rods but got everything else. (I have since installed the tie rods.)

A 3.6 :)

You have just been given a very wide range of mods of which, ones that should be done and others are elective depending on what YOUR NEEDS are for the car. Enjoy it for a while and it will tell you what it needs to make you smile, who knows, it may make you smile as is :=)

...a chipped 3.2 with Fabspeed exhaust...

complete tune up to include valve adjustment
turbo lower valve covers
if early SC upgrade fuel lines
fuel filter
replace all vacumm lines
drain gas tank, clean screen replace gas lines to pump
chain tensioner upgrade
renewed bushes front and rear
remove BIG washer on front struts
lower to Euro height and realign
rebuild calipers
SS brake lines
SSIs and 2 in, 2 out muf
new Bilsteins front and rear
new shifter bushes front and rear
repair the side oil lines
upgrade oil cooler
7x9 fuchs w/225 & 245 tyres

Engine performance mods: remove and replace with a 930 powerplant! :p

Driver skills

Priceless

I knew someone would suggest this...hence


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344316056.jpg

this.

and do the safety items: replace ALL the rubber (tire, fuel lines, brake lines, etc)

You can always lighten it too.

e.g.: fiberglass IROC bumpers.

Fiberglass deck lid (removing weight in the back is always good.)

Remove all the sound deadening material and replacing the carpet with light weight perlon if you're into that look. And the seats too...

Actually, lightening these cars goes a long way as far as performance. Mine was somewhere over 2500lbs when I got it. Last time I weighed it was #2250 (with out my fat ass in the seat) You can feel the difference.

But I agree with all the safety stuff first. Start making a priority list to help keep your "mods" in check.

transmission/rear gear. rebuild the transmission and install a smaller rear end gear (7.31), improve the shifting with aftermarket shifter, bushings, coupler. stock brakes/pads, new suspension rubber. make sure the CIS works well and drive it. After a year then decide on what you would like to do. At first the car will exceed your abilities then as you improve, you will reach the limit of the car. Then it's time for upgrades.

Nothing that ive done to mine made a bigger difference on the butt dyno than SSI's

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344343689.jpg

Here are some links to chew on. Probably a lot of repeats from what has been stated here.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/577318-replacing-all-suspension-bushings-911sc.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/545717-911-sc-upgrades.html

Grady Clay comments in this one.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/251403-got-bit-money-what-would-you-recommend-sc-upgrades.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/10077-cis-efi-conversions.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/33313-what-can-you-do-80-sc-get-better-performance.html

Without spending huge amounts of money your 911 SC can run with and be more fun than most modern cars and definitely cars of the era up to 1994. I have run side to side with a 3.6 Carrera up hill, at altitude, with my 82 911 SC. Of course the 915 transmission is geared lower and after 80 mph this advantage, is gone you are no longer in the game with the 3.6 liter with the G50 transmission. But how do you do this? First, reduce weight, race seats, fiber glass bumpers and remove air conditioning. Wheel up grades, make them light. Exhaust, cat removed. If you have extra cash, 964 cams, ti connecting rods, larger air intake box, MSD ignition, Carrera up grades and Turbo valve covers. Suspension, all Turbo upgrades, and torsion bars, Bilsteins, lower chassis. Now you have it, with good tires you can run with most modern equipment, if you can drive a 911 well.

Absolute "must have" is the pop-off valve in the air box.

I have owned SC's for close to 20 years now. And IMO, the best mod for the buck is a Fabspeed cat by-pass. It saves a few pounds, it may eliminate an old, clogged cat, but most importantly it lets through the beautiful noises the 3.0 makes.

As for brakes, Call Steve at Rennsport in Portland and order Mintex Red Box pads.

For street driven car, that is all you need. . . But probably not all you want. :D

I hate to have to point this out but you guys are replying to a thread from a couple of years ago...

JR

Only two years? Seems like its even more relevant today. More valuable, more special, more sweetness in many aspects. Simplicity is even more distinguished than ever.

Diverdan

I have a '78 SC and did everything here aside from tensioners, SSI's and stainless brake lines.

I've also lightened the car ~215lbs, basically removed cat and muffler, and a number of other non-performance enhancing but overall "mods".

It's the most visceral thing I've ever driven and it's always sad to watch the garage door close behind her...

HOWEVER, You must prioritize as this has cost close to $11k...and the SSI's and Tensioners aren't "low-buck" upgrades by any means...

Subscribed. Thread still relevant! :D

First I'd get it back to what it was....replace bushings in the A arms, sway bars, trailing arms, spring plates, check your shocks for wear. Inspect front T bars for rust/pitting.
While doing this I'd change the sways to Carrera sways 22/21 from the SC 20/19.
Steering should be tight, replace the bushing in the column under the steering wheel, upgrade to turbo tie rods.
Replace/inspect all shift bushings at the gear lever and coupler.
Replace tranny/engine mounts...they degrade.
Dump the almost worthless AC (some do, some don't...I did as I wanted a lighter car as 100 lbs.= 10 hp.) ok, that's not a must do.
Make sure your wur is operating at spec./same for the fuel head.
Adjust AFR and a good tune up w/valve job....get a leak down for a base number.
Then,
Dump the cat and get SSI's, a stock style Dansk banana muffler two in one out will actually be the best for torque and street HP.
IOTW, get it properly stock and running as it should, handling as it should then decide on upgrades.
Have fun.

If you plan to do much drivers ed/tracking, an auxillary oil cooler is a must. SC's are way under cooled (oil) when driving aggressively over a period of time.

I didn't go down the oil fed tensioner route. I replaced with stock. I discussed this at length with my local dealer who pointed out that oil fed ones can and do fail as well. He also believed that Porsche supplied originals are now improved over ones fitted when my car was new and I should expect them to last longer. As the originals lasted 75k miles and my mileage per year is low, I will be about 125 years old before they need doing again. So I have a tidier engine bay, less joints for oil leaks, and a few dollars left in the kitty from the cost saving!

Agree, I've a Carrera rad cooler unit/fan and that is the way to go. The block off and forced air make a dif

I have a IROC style front valence. Does it make more sense to run a center mount cooler in tandem with the trombone or should i upgrade to the carrera cooler and call it a day?

Here was my list. Many were already done, lucky me. Bold are stressed items that I think often are overlooked.

930 tie rods
Hydraulic tensioners
Shifter bushings and upgrade to solid linkage by input shaft
930 valve covers on bottom
new headlight switch
new turn stalk/switch
hl relay kit
fuel sender
oil temp sender
ground strap by transmission (oil and corrosion = too much resistance)
Valve adjustment
free-flowing exhaust
Brake fluid flush (every 5 years or so if you drive it much)
adjust the damned brake pedal so you can reach it and throttle at the same time
Recaros

I have a center mounted oil cooler. I bypassed the stock cooler. Oil temp is rock solid regardless of the exercise mode.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453836346.jpg

My 2 cents......(in addition to the above considerations)

- volt meter (I prefer analog/real meter)
- seats / belts that hold you in place.
- head stud check (every oil change)

I didn't go down the oil fed tensioner route, either. My mechanic recommended and installed Turbo tensioners with the "anti-collapse collars" 15 years ago, and I have had no failures.
The MSD ignition and SSI's / Dansk dual-in/dual-out Sport muffler made a HUGE difference on the butt dyno.
I am going to upgrade the oil cooler this year, even though I don't track the 911SC.
I've heard so much about the unavailability of parts, and the devastating effects of ethanol on the CIS systems, I've considered installing an EFI system, and cleaning and storing the CIS for future owners (son and grandson). Thoughts on EFI? SmileWavy

The previous posters have great advice. I did SSIs and a sport muffler, but also pulled about 150 lbs of dead weight out of it which gives you faster acceleration and braking.

I pulled the center console, worthless AC, back seat backs, heater blower motor when backdating heat, changed bumper shocks for crush tubes, pulled the spare and added Fix-a-Flat and tire plugs, switched the heavy metal engine cover for fiberglass and lost the rear overriders. Other heavy weight items are the power seats at about 50lbs each. You can replace both for half the weight. Weight is the enemy. The more you lose the faster your car accelerates due to less mass and most of this is free other than the rear deck lid.

16x9 fuchs on the rear

Was returning to edit my post when Ferraripete beat me to it, but I was going to add 16X7s in front too. Actually mine are 17s just to have a better selection of tires.

I'd just do the Carrera unit...can't imagine needing any more cooling for a 3.0. I run my '83 euro in 110 degree ambient Az summers (75 mph trip to/from Phx) and don't see 210 often. That is without the fan going (I have it switched so I control it). At hot idle summer I'm still at 1 bar plus. The fan does a great job in stop/go heat.
This time of year I block off the scoop I have in place.