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Resolving Shift Lever Swivel

I have a shift lever linkage rod etc from a 69 911. Recently when going into first or reverse the shift lever will turn or swivel to the side. I haven’t opened it up yet but if I recall it’s a ball mated to the bottom of the shift lever, is that correct?

It feels as if the lever is rotating in the ball. If this is the case is there any advice for solving the problem.

Also can someone point me to a exploded view diagram of this shifter linkage.

Thank you in advance.

Old 08-07-2012, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 356Fan View Post
I have a shift lever linkage rod etc from a 69 911. Recently when going into first or reverse the shift lever will turn or swivel to the side. I haven’t opened it up yet but if I recall it’s a ball mated to the bottom of the shift lever, is that correct?

It feels as if the lever is rotating in the ball. If this is the case is there any advice for solving the problem.

Also can someone point me to a exploded view diagram of this shifter linkage.

Thank you in advance.
Very common problem, it will get worse the more you shift it! The epoxy that "glues" the stick to the lower "socket/ball" has failed. You just need to remove the stick and re epoxy it with a good high qualiy epoxy. Go to this tech article on install of short shifter for good pics and directions for removal and reassembly:
Pelican Technical Article: Short Shift Kit Install



EDIT: If you know someone who can weld, you just tack weld it together instead of epoxy.
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'71 911T Coupe White, '70 911T Coupe Blue
'68 911 Coupe Orange, '68 911L Soft Window Targa

Last edited by uwanna; 08-07-2012 at 06:46 AM..
Old 08-07-2012, 06:38 AM
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Thank you for the response.

Sounds like the epoxy can be done without talking it all apart. Any idea if the tack weld can be done in the car as well.
Old 08-07-2012, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 356Fan View Post
Thank you for the response.

Sounds like the epoxy can be done without talking it all apart. Any idea if the tack weld can be done in the car as well.
In order to tack weld it, you would need to remove the stick. As a matter of fact, I would not try the epoxy without removing the stick.
The shifter comes apart very easily, and will also give you the opportunity to replace the bushings as they are probably in need of replacement.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=911-424-139-00-M260&catalog_description=Ball%20Cup%20Shift%20Bushing%2 0at%20base%20of%20shift%20lever%2C%20%39%31%32E%2C %20%39%31%31%20%28%31%39%37%34%2D%38%36%29%2C%20%3 9%31%31%20Turbo%20%28%31%39%37%36%2D%38%38%29%20

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=914-424-224-00-M260&catalog_description=Shift%20Rod%20Bushing%20in%20T unnel%20Behind%20Shifter%2C%20%39%31%32E%2C%20%39% 31%31%20%28%31%39%36%39%2D%38%36%29%2C%20%39%31%31 %20Turbo%20%28%31%39%37%36%2D%38%38%29%20
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'80SC Widebody 3.6 transplant Anthracite "The Rocket"
Long gone but still miss them all:
'77 911 Targa, '72 BMW 3.0CS Coupe(finest car I ever had!)
'71 911T Coupe White, '70 911T Coupe Blue
'68 911 Coupe Orange, '68 911L Soft Window Targa

Last edited by uwanna; 08-07-2012 at 08:43 AM..
Old 08-07-2012, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 356Fan View Post
Thank you for the response.

Sounds like the epoxy can be done without talking it all apart. Any idea if the tack weld can be done in the car as well.
Sure, but I would remove it to make access easier and ultimately .... safer. It's only 5 threaded bolts; (3-M8, 2-M6). Use an electric welding technique (wire, Tig or stick). I would avoid a flame torch - too many non-metal parts in the housing can melt.

To ensure the upper lever aligns properly with the lower section, I would first prep the parts to join with the welder (bare metal, no grease/paint), then while in the car, set in place with a small tab of epoxy. This will give you some working time before it sets up and will keep parts aligned before removing the housing and tack welding as shown. Remove the nylon ball socket before welding to avoid overheating it. You don't have to overdo the welding area. This is more than sufficient.

With welding heat, you may want to remove bubbled paint with a wire wheel, then repaint. While you're there, inspect the nylon bushings for wear, then replace as needed.



Sherwood
Old 08-07-2012, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 911pcars View Post



Sherwood
Is it correct to assume that this hole just above the ball is oriented perpendicular to length of the car (eg. left to right and not front to back) when the shifter is installed?
Old 12-21-2012, 09:20 AM
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Correct......left to right.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:00 AM
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replace all the bushings & blueprint the tower etc. while you're addressing the lever

Old 12-21-2012, 12:35 PM
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