Engine cosmetics and a few questions

[wachuko]

This is for the SC -> RS project ...



I am not opening the engine... at least I hope I don't have to Currently removing the stock headers, replacing exhaust studs, etc.

I want the engine to look nice... and would love to have carbs or efi trumpets that looks like a carb setup, but no budget for that now. So asking for suggestions on the following:

1. What to use to clean the block so that it looks like new? Remember, not taking the engine apart... so don't tell me to dip it in acid

2. Previous owner powder coated a few parts in yellow... not really my color. With the car being painted Non-metallic Aquamarine Blue. What would be a cool color to paint the engine tins to make the engine bay look nicer?



3. Same question for the fan housing and blades...

4. Should I just clean the engine fan shroud and leave it original or color match it to the exterior of the car?? or give it the same color as the engine tins?

5. Engine tins between cylinders, can those be removed without removing the heads? They are beyond restoration and I would like to replace them if possible. I have an Expandable Oil Return Tube Kit on the way, just in case those need to come out to get the tins out...



6. Valve covers were powder coated silver... I guess I will leave them like that. I have a new set of original wires to replace those blue ones in the photo (new set came with the car).

7. I will have no heat or AC in this car... So looking to block off the holes in the engine tins where heater hoses came in. One side is easy, just a flat piece, the other one I will have to grind the welds to remove the metal tube that comes down. I also have the side cover that eliminates the hose outlet on the side of the fan housing (the one next to the distributor).



What else guys?? Thank you in advanced for your suggestions!!

[timmy2]

Complete cis, alternator and fan housing need to come off to access the cooling tins from above. No need to remove heads or open engine at all.
Various solutions for cleaning the aluminum. Most involve good cleaners, time and a toothbrush.
Look at electrical panel fillers to plug the holes in the engine tin.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Complete cis, alternator and fan housing need to come off to access the cooling tins from above. No need to remove heads or open engine at all.
Various solutions for cleaning the aluminum. Most involve good cleaners, time and a toothbrush.
Look at electrical panel fillers to plug the holes in the engine tin.

Thank you , thank you, thank you! That is great news... I was planning on removing CIS, and the rest of the stuff you mentioned. No issues there... but if I had to remove the heads, those tins would have stayed there... Let me go and order those now.

Any solution you can recommend for aluminum cleaning, something proven?

Electrical panel fillers? I was planning on just getting some flat aluminum sheet and make a cover for the holes.

[Geneman]

wachuko ..great topic i am also very interested.. have my 3.2 out on the stand now. heads off and everything else that is not long block

for he first round i simply degreased the crap out of motor while intake and all else was on... placed large pan underneath ebgine stand brushed on full strength degreaese, then recycled from drip pan a few times,. then scrubbing and power washing worked well.

after removing tin, all v covers, intake, chain covers and cowel, all went to poweder coaters. .i was told the cowel was some type of fiberglaass and cannot be powder coated... however in all the primo engines i see , its painted .. does anyone know how this is done?

the block is the big issue which i hope we get some input from the pelica brain trust via your thread. i tiook a 1 inch drill plus wire brush to get into as many crannies as possible,. then use a wire brush on the dremel to get all old undrecoating . however polishing, finish with wire brush is not good leaves a very rough finish.. even the fine bristle heads. i have heard using brass wire briush heads , fine ones, but cannot find them.

i wasv considering using a FLITZ like metal polish ( which i use on my boat metal) ..but that gets it to bare metal and reasonably smooth. is there a metal sealent one can use after this?

be interested to see if there us a way to do this withourt the case cracking dipping..

cheers

frank

btw.. i am from philly you gave me some great tips on my cement garage floor .... being poured tomorrow!!! pics to follow f

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Geneman

btw.. i am from philly you gave me some great tips on my cement garage floor .... being poured tomorrow!!! pics to follow f

Cool! Do share photos!!

[Tippy]

Soda blast

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Tippy

Soda blast

I have that... it is the blue tank you see in the photo. A friend let me borrow his kit...but I was thinking of using that for the suspension parts...

Ohhh, but the mess it makes!! That stuff gets everywhere!! I would be worried of getting all that inside the engine...

But soda blasting is an option. I just need to make sure I sealed everything well...

Will try solvents first... Thank you!

[Brown747]

Looks like you've got at least one broken exhaust stud that will need repair. The other nuts are looking pretty rusty. I recommend heating the nuts to red hot with an oxy acetylene torch before attempting removal. Good luck. Thor

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by wachuko

Electrical panel fillers? I was planning on just getting some flat aluminum sheet and make a cover for the holes.

There are metal knock out hole covers up to 4" diameter at Lowes or wherever you buy electrical stuff that have little metal tabs that can be bent to hold the cover in place. Cheap and easy, may have to file hole to fit...
I have one on my car where the air pump piping used to go through the tin. Hasn't moved in over a year and looks good.
As far as cleaners go, there are a multitude. Just make sure it doesn't affect aluminum.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by timmy2

There are metal knock out hole covers up to 4" diameter at Lowes or wherever you buy electrical stuff that have little metal tabs that can be bent to hold the cover in place. Cheap and easy, may have to file hole to fit...
I have one on my car where the air pump piping used to go through the tin. Hasn't moved in over a year and looks good.
As far as cleaners go, there are a multitude. Just make sure it doesn't affect aluminum.

I will stop by Lowes to check those out, thank you!

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Brown747

Looks like you've got at least one broken exhaust stud that will need repair. The other nuts are looking pretty rusty. I recommend heating the nuts to red hot with an oxy acetylene torch before attempting removal. Good luck. Thor

Not just one... all of them Ordered all new studs from our host. And the broken extractor tool from Christian. There is enough stud to grab them with an outside extractor, so a torch is in order... I sure hope they come out, if not, Christian's tool will be put to good use.

I should not say all of them... I still have the three hex nuts to take out... but those already stripped the hex inner shape and I will need to figure out how to remove them now...

[Brown747]

Better take a look under the lower valve covers for broken head studs,,,,could send your cosmetic project in a whole other direction! Hope not...
Here is my thread from last years clean up project. First time engine drop

Thor

[timmy2]

Yep, follow Thor's thread for cleaning. He did a terriffic job on his drivetrain.
We were both doing the same type of jobs on our cars last year.
Here's my thread on my odyssey into the stud replacement along with a bunch of other stuff...
Finally, back in the game!

[Brown747]

THanks Dennis,
Look forward to a drive your direction next spring...Thor

[wachuko]

Thor and Dennis, those are outstanding threads, thank you.

Man I sure hope there are no surprises under those valve covers....

[rrichar]

I will pass on a good idea from another Pelicanite, torsion bar hole covers from the rear fenders make good covers for the holes in the engine tin.