Mounting engine to engine stand?

Don Nguyen · 12-20-2012, 10:22 PM

I am planning on mounting my engine to an engine stand for an extended period of time to store it. Should I use the yoke or can I use the universal mount? For those who are using the yoke, it seems like they are using some type of pipe/spacer where the bolts are. Where do you get those?

thanks.

-Don

Nostril Cheese · 12-20-2012, 10:25 PM

You can just buy steel pipe/electrical conduit at your local hardware store and cut it to size.

trak ratt · 12-21-2012, 04:26 AM

The yoke spreads the load on the lip of the cases much better than the universal mount. You really don't want to break a piece of that lip off.

I have several yokes but also use the adapter on the universal mount as a cost effective alternative.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-TOL-MCDENG

wachuko · wachuko's Garage

You can, many folks here have done it. In my case I went with the recommedation of using thn factory tool... Better access to everything, with no worries of the stand adapter being in the way of my work.

P201 Engine Holder Tool Porsche Volkswagen VW | eBay

And since I am a sucker for tools, I also ordered the spacers our host sells. Using some nuts as spacer while these get here:

Pelican Parts - Product Information: STOMSKI-SR028

gregwils · gregwils's Garage

I have an adapter ring from Mainley that I use with a universal with a universal mount. It does properly spread the weight load on the case, but if reduces the amount of clearance between the mount and the case. You need to remove the PP/clutch prior to mounting.

I bought mine on fleaBay for $50, so $200+ in savings for infrequent inconvenience was worth it to me. If I were buying new, I would have ponied up for the better stand. Wayne sells the adapter ring too.

Baby · Baby's Garage

If you dont have conduit yoi can use sockets and washers.

wachuko · wachuko's Garage

That is something that I like about the one that I have... works with the clutch in place. I think it is worth the extra bucks..

Jesse16 · Jesse16's Garage

The P201 is exactly the right tool. Once you're done using it, you can re-sell it in a minute for 75% (or more) of what you paid for it rather than shelve it forever, that's what I did. Buy another one some day if the engine has to come out for DIY repair. I kept the name of the Pelican I sold it to so maybe could buy or borrow it back if the need arose, he was cool with that.

David E. Clark · 12-21-2012, 08:26 AM

I recommend the factory tool. You can leave the engine mounted as long as you want with no worries. I don't think i could sleep at night if I had to wonder if the engine would still be mounted in the morning!

A deep well socket makes a great spacer.

Don Nguyen · 12-21-2012, 08:31 AM

I think I will just go for the yoke then, based on recommendations.

I have this type of engine stand now:

1000 Lb. Engine Stand

Is it adequate enough to be stable with the flat 6 on there?

wachuko · wachuko's Garage

Yes... same one that I have. One sec, let me check if it is still on

Yes, still on and has not fallen from it

I got it recently for around 50.00 with one of those 20% discount coupons... can't beat the price...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Don Nguyen

I think I will just go for the yoke then, based on recommendations.

I have this type of engine stand now:

1000 Lb. Engine Stand

Is it adequate enough to be stable with the flat 6 on there?

trak ratt · 12-21-2012, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregwils

I have an adapter ring from Mainley that I use with a universal with a universal mount. It does properly spread the weight load on the case, but if reduces the amount of clearance between the mount and the case. You need to remove the PP/clutch prior to mounting.

When I made mine up I used some longer bolts and some pipe to space it farther out. Works very well. Currently in use for my 3.2 post Morten. But is the one I loan out instead of the "factory tool."

RD911T · RD911T's Garage

I'm trying to mount the yoke I bought from VW Alley and the exhaust on my 82 3.0l interferes with it. Do I have to remove the cross over pipe to mount the yoke? My motor is on a lift table sitting on the exhaust and I don't see how I'm going to remove the pipe without lifting the motor. At a stand still.

SCadaddle · 04-14-2013, 09:22 AM

Note the spacers in the lower right of the photo. Look like thick washers with a side ground off. Should you happen to be under your car working on something else and notice a gap between the engine and the transmission on one side.....the light bulb moment occurs to you that you have probably found the reason you are having clutch problems because after removing the engine from the stand and then mating the transmission on the ground you missed that damn washer/spacer! Alas, a pair of very thin 17mm nuts jammed together to back the stud out and a magnet tool to retrieve the spacer you are back in business.

As Pellow used to say, "to be forewarned is to be forearmed"!

Mark Henry · 04-14-2013, 09:44 AM

When using a P201 in a Harbour Freight (here called Princess Auto) stand I so totally hate using a pin. This is the mod I make so that it's a pinch mount like the factory mount. I can now turn the engine any orientation that I like.

jmd88 · 11-04-2022, 09:22 AM

Newb question - where are the "hang points" on this engine so that I can lift it up and onto the stand? I've looked around and don't see what I've got on other engines where I can link my U-Connects and lift with an engine hoist.

NeedAJoker · NeedAJoker's Garage

I have never lifted an engine so I am probably not the one to chime in here, but at halfway through this video you can see a quick time-lapse of how this guy uses his lift stand and some cinder blocks to get it high enough. I think I have seen others talk about this method also. Someone will probably answer below with better options for what you are specifically asking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxAcLwzAJ3w

rwest · rwest's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmd88

Newb question - where are the "hang points" on this engine so that I can lift it up and onto the stand? I've looked around and don't see what I've got on other engines where I can link my U-Connects and lift with an engine hoist.

Lots of people seem to use a lift table to get the engine to height. A couple strong friends with good backs are useful as well!

I used my floor jack to raise it as high as possible then placed four jack stands under the heat exchangers, then built a wooden box that fit around the engine stand, placed the floor jack on the box that was under the engine straddling the stand and then jacked it up the rest of the way- some would call this stupid; I might agree, although I never felt like it was dangerous or unstable.

tsuter · 11-05-2022, 06:52 AM

I go from the car to the motor cycle lift with a softwood lumber jig, then direct to the stand. (remove tranny and attach yoke) Yoke goes on the engine first but the pic is so you can see the idea .A 21 inch MX lift was fine for height to my stand.
No muss no fuss....

This is how it comes out from under car (I do remove the rear bumper) and place a piece of carpet over the wood jig.

ADDvanced · ADDvanced's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse16

The P201 is exactly the right tool. Once you're done using it, you can re-sell it in a minute for 75% (or more) of what you paid for it rather than shelve it forever, that's what I did. Buy another one some day if the engine has to come out for DIY repair. I kept the name of the Pelican I sold it to so maybe could buy or borrow it back if the need arose, he was cool with that.

This is the way.