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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 127
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Removing engine mounts--help
Hi All,
I am about to upgrade to Wevo semi-solid mounts with black pillows. My car is a 1989 cabriolet. I have the engine supported at its standard height on a wood block on my 2 ton floor jack. My difficulty is that I cannot get the main motor mount bolts out. I sprayed them liberally with PB blaster last night and they have been soaking for more than 12 hours. I cannot get them to budge with a standard 19mm socket wrench. Even my Craftsman C3 battery-operated impact wrench will not loosen them. The mounts in the car look original and there was no evidence on them that any of the bolts had ever been loosened, so I am assuming these are the factory mounts. The car has 71,000 miles on it. Any ideas? |
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Registered
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They can be a bear. It took me a couple days of PB Blaster and an air wrench to get them to budge. You have to be careful not to over torque them as you can crack the cross bar. I found it helped to hold the cross bar while hitting the bolt with an impact wrench, which eventually loosened them.
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Kinsley 1980 SC Targa - MS2, EDIS |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Carlos, CA US
Posts: 5,520
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Wedge a piece of wood between the cross bar and the body so that it does not move. Use a big ass breaker bar, or an Ingersol Rand impact gun. It will come off.
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 2,010
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Yep. You need a bigger, better gun to get those off. I just did mine in the same manner. If the gun does not work, then you will need a half inch extension, a breaker bar, and a three foot length of pipe(slipped over the handle of the breaker bar) to get enough leverage on the bolts.
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Christopher Mahalick 1984 911 Targa, 1974 Lotus Europa TCS 2001 BMW 530i(5spd!), Ducati 900 SS/SP 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250, 2015 Yamaha R3 1965 Suzuki k15 Hillbilly, 1975 Suzuki GT750 |
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83 911SC Cab
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 954
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I got lucky as mine came off with a 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar and no additives.
Keep in mind the Cab engine mount is two piece and will work against you at some point. Eyes and ears will save the breakables. Good luck. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 416
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Use anti seize on the new installation for the benefit of the next mount replacement in 2037.
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Howard '76 911S '53 Nash (!) '01 Audi TT '82 GPZ-550 |
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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It took every foot pound of my 550 ft/lb. impact gun to get mine out of the 84. One was so stuck that it twisted the mounting ear about 40 degrees.
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"Too much is just enough." |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 488
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89PS911 - On my 1980 SC, I have a nut at the other end of the bolt which isn't obvious. I am not sure your configuration, but I mention this because I always forget. I had to put a wrench on that to keep it from just spinning...
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J 911 SC - 1980 911 S - 1977 |
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Red Line Service
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I bet your motor has been out before...... Torque should be 65 ft lbs. As Howard M said, reinstall with a liberal amount of anti-seize.
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Marc Bixen/Red Line Service West Los Angeles, Ca. www.redlneservice.net / info@redlineservice.net Podcast:"Marc Bixen Live" https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4DPQbCjH3OQ_h1iUcsrFfA |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 127
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Thanks to all--and next steps
Hi All,
A 3 ft section of pipe over the end of my regular 1/2" socket wrench handle with an extension running into the 19mm socket head did the trick, and without much effort. Old mounts are out and the Wevo semi-solid mounts are in. The Wevo instructions say to torque the main M12 bolt to 40 ft lbs and the M8 bolts that hold the engine mount housing to the body to 18 ft lbs. I applied about 42 and 19 respectively, and then re-tightened to those specs to check. I was skeptical the new mounts would make much of a difference. I was, however, wrong. I just came back from a 1 hour drive and the rear end of my car feels much more solid and direct. No noticeable increase in cabin noise in a Cabriolet. No movement in the rear of the car at all when blipping the throttle while at a standstill. Much better feel when hitting bumps on the road (new shocks went in last winter). In sum, I am very happy with the change to the Wevo mounts. I will check the torque on all bolts again tomorrow to be sure everything is OK. After that, I will be replacing the drop links and the two bushings on the rear sway bar. I am not sure they need it, but there is no record of them ever having been changed, they look old, and my car has just headed north of 71,000 miles at just over 24 years old since built in 10/88. I am finding that every time I change a bushing (last year the rear A-arm bushings were replaced due to deformity) the car feels much tighter. After the rear sway bar, I plan to remove the spring plates and replace the rubber bushings on them with the Elephant Racing rubber replacement bushings. The factory bushings definitely seem out of round--I can see that the gap around the torsion bar cover plate is uneven. I am sure I will have more questions when I get to the spring plates and will be coming back to this great forum with them. Thanks again. |
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Registered
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Leverage is always your friend.
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Matt. 83 911SC 85.5 944 NA - Sold |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 127
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You can say that again. I learned it again today when replacing my drop links and bushings on the rear sway bar...
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