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3.2 ltr alternator/fan removal on the car

Clearly my search skills are substandard.
I have read where you can remove the entire assembly in one piece. I honestly cannot figure out how this is possible without hitting on the engine mounting plate. Do you remove the fan from the alternator and then the alternator? I have removed all the screws from the fan surround and the one screw by the distribute. This did free up the shroud so that it would pull out. I was able to get it past the crank pulley but that is where I am currently stuck.

The book I have is a POS, I will be getting a proper book and use my current one to light my smoker. Haynes. It surely seems as if the AC belt has to come off as well.






Old 09-09-2012, 09:03 AM
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Sorry about the pic size. Most of the time they resize when they are posted but it didn't do that this time.
Old 09-09-2012, 09:11 AM
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You're on the right path. Leave fan in. Fan with alternator inside housing comes out as a unit. I removed the wires from the distributor, but not the dizzy itself. The housing strap stays on the engine..

Continue to lift housing a smidge and rotate it toward you - but do not remove all of the way until you remove the small (8mm?) nuts that hold the air deflector. Then mark/photo and remove the wires from the voltage regulator.

Be careful as the wires insulation may be prone to damage, and the air deflector may be brittle. Go slow as there may not be a lot of room. Someone else here may chime in with some better advice.

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Old 09-09-2012, 01:34 PM
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Take the AC belt off it will not allow you to tilt the housing out far enough.
The advice above is great.
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:15 PM
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I just did this job on my car and it's do-able but putting it back together can be tough and challenging. Definitely take lots of pictures before you take the inner fan housing off so you can orient the way it goes back on and take pics of the alternator in what orientation it has to the Alt. housing so that the inner fan housing will go onto the back of the alt easily. Also label and photograph the wiring in a few angles so that does not become fuzzy in your memory later. I only took one bad picture and it had me guessing for a while. Lastly have your manuals with you to reference. Good luck. BTW this is a great time to send out the fan housing and fan to get power coated as well as new belts. My powder coating costed $150.

Last edited by Omegablueray; 09-26-2012 at 07:36 PM.. Reason: added info
Old 09-26-2012, 07:09 PM
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:44 PM
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Removal -

Remove all belts. Remove all bolts holding fan shroud to engine shroud. Loosen the big band that holds the shroud down.

Wiggle the assembly forward. Snake your hand and small wrench back there. Loosen and remove the small nuts holding the rear air deflector to the back of the fan shroud. Push the rear deflector back out of the way. Pause. Make a diagram or take pictures of how the alternator is wired. Then - remove all wires.

The housing/fan should now slide out. Pull the fan off. It may slide off easy (mine did) - it may require a puller. Be careful. The shroud and fan are aluminum/magnesium. Easy to break.

With the fan off, wiggle or lightly tap the alternator out of the housing. Again - be careful.

While you have everything out - clean out the space behind your alternator with a vac or engine cleaner. Also - check the big ground and make sure it is in good shape.

Assembly is the reverse of removal. If you are changing alternators, be careful that the new one sits in the housing as deep as the old one.

Have fun.
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:47 AM
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Don't mean to hijack, but when I bought my car it didn't have the air deflector in place. Is this something that has an impact on cooling the engine? Should I find one and add to my car or is this something that the car can do without?

The above info is good. Removing the fan/alternator is just about the same on my 2.7 as above. Just be careful with the magnesium/aluminum pieces.

Thanks again.
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Old 09-27-2012, 04:21 AM
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The air deflector is there to help cool the alternator itself and also redirect the air around the back of the fan to get back to the heads. The centerline of the engine is the engine case itself and the air shouldn't be wasted on trying to cool the case. The air needs to get to the cylinders and cylinder heads. That's why the air deflector has the fins attached to it, to help direct air outwardly towards the places needing the air.
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:46 AM
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Didn't see any mention of disconnecting battery prior to any electrical work. Seems prudent.
And yes, you do need the air deflector. Care is called for when reattaching. The fasteners are small and difficult to get to due to space and should not be over tightened because of the age of the plastic.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:07 AM
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From the tech section.

Pelican Technical Article: 911 Alternator & Voltage Regulator Removal/Replacement

Step by step instructions, well written and easy to follow.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:16 AM
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I removed the upright sheet metal from the right side of the engine that exposes the top of the right bank of cylinders and allows you to get your hand behind the air diverter to remove the nuts that hold it in place and also gives better access to the wires on the back of the alternator. i also keep a magnet on the nuts as i remove them to prevent dropping them into the abyss
Old 09-27-2012, 06:40 AM
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What is the maximum voltage output of 930/911 Alternator or it's Voltage Regulator ?
Old 10-28-2012, 11:49 AM
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MAX Output

Quote:
Originally Posted by david3299 View Post
What is the maximum voltage output of 930/911 Alternator or it's Voltage Regulator ?
If the VR is working properly the max output voltage is about 14V.
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:57 AM
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How long does the alternator switch-out take?
Old 10-30-2012, 10:37 AM
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Took me a little over two hours the first time. Only an hour and 10 minutes the next day.
Chris
Old 10-30-2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgmrgm View Post
I removed the upright sheet metal from the right side of the engine that exposes the top of the right bank of cylinders and allows you to get your hand behind the air diverter to remove the nuts that hold it in place and also gives better access to the wires on the back of the alternator. i also keep a magnet on the nuts as i remove them to prevent dropping them into the abyss
Hi...I needed to replace my oil sender unit, including wanting to polish the fan and housing, so off came the complete fan and housing.
Your 'tip' of removing the small front small triangular sheet metal on the right side made both jobs much easier...I highly recommend it - 3 bolts and it's off ...Thanks for the 'tip'!
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Discseven View Post
How long does the alternator switch-out take?
It depends on how many times you drop the nuts for the deflector or the adjustment shims... I pack a shop rag down between the engine and the mount to make the retrieval of the bits I drop much easier. Obviously make sure you remove that before you start the engine.

angela

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Old 04-02-2013, 04:40 AM
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