Evolution of a Carrera RST

[Uwon]

Some pics of the body preparation prior to painting.....

Left and right A/C outlet frames from the '86 welded into the '78....





Defroster grafting complete...



Left exhaust cut-out has been filled in as it is not required...



More next week.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

looking forward to the next set of pics Johan!

[Uwon]

Hey Shaun,
Nice to chime in on my little project. Everything seems to take much longer than budgeted but I'm happier with the results so far. Remember that it was you who first suggested to keep the '86 dash and I am glad that you did. I am now trying to figure out where to move the centre console dials and switches because I'm going to at least delete that console as well as the radio. Cheers...

[Shaun @ Tru6]

So I am to blame. j/k.

if you aren't installing a radio, why not make a nice plate in place of the radio to hold the dials? I'd fab up two versions, one just flat, the other I'd use an HVAC slider controls face plate with the recess and mount a plate in the valley for the dials. Might look nice sitting next to the proper slider plate.

I LIVE takes more time than budgeted Johan. For me, it's 4X longer than I expect.

But your car is coming along beautifully! Hope to see it at Hershey if you are taking it.

[Uwon]

Shaun, I picked up a radio delete plate from our host to mount some of the dials on it but it appears a bit flimsy. I will have to fab an aluminum backing plate for it. Stuff that has to be moved are the two A/C dials, 4-way flasher button, door lock switch, fuel pump switch, and two ignition coil bank switches (used to diagnose ignition problems with the twin plug Electromotive tec3r engine management system). The A/C dials and fuel pump switch can go in the radio spot. The 4-way flasher button can be moved up to the left of the fog light switch (which I still need for the rear fog light). I don't know yet how big the door lock switch is so the jury is out on that one. The coil switches may have to go immediately to the right of the steering column, but we'll see. Welcome any alternate suggestions....anyone

[Rich76_911s]

Johan,

Wow it is great to see the progress you are making. I can't believe that chassis used to be in my barn!

On the great switch debate. Could you do the two A/C dials, 4-way flasher button, & door lock button on the radio. (Do you even need the door lock button?) Then could the remaining switches be mounted where the ash tray is supposed to go? I would think you'd like to keep the fuel pump and coil switches together for easy start-up, right? ? ?

I love that you are getting that big old intercooler under the ducktail. Can you make me one?

[Uwon]

Hi Rich,
Glad to hear from you. I'm happy to say that your old chassis really looks good. No surprises except those of my own making.
I think that I'll pull out the cigarette lighter and place the central lock swich there, if there is room. And yes, we oldies like that switch when we are about to be approached by some questionable character at a red light. LOL. You may have a point though, as the wreck does have a full alarm and remote doors locking system which made the driver's side manual door lock dial an automatic default lock for both doors.
If the 4-way flasher goes to the right ( not left as I previously indicated) of the fog light switch, then the A/c dials, fuel pump switch and two coil switches can go side by side on the radio delete plate.
I got the modified I/C back yesterday together with an extended link pipe (turbo to I/C) and I did a dry fitting tonight. Finally got it right. I will post some pics this weekend.
Rich, I'll send you a note this weekend.
Cheers....

[Uwon]

Got my modified I/C back last week from my welder together with a shortened and re-angled 930 connecting pipe. I did a dry fit and I think that I finally got it right! The I/C had been slightly dented and heavily scratched in the crash so the light gray powder coating looked pretty rough especially after this latest intake modification. I had been tossing the idea to re-powder coat but then decided that I would prefer natural aluminum -if- I could successfully remove the powder coating on the left and right I/C tanks. I did not think that paint remover would work, but it did. Slow and tedious and 4 hours later I had the unit, to bare metal, water sanded and reasonably polished. Did not turn out too bad.



I also dry fitted the air intake plumbing which some may find interesting and others not. The large K&N filter with a 3" throat is located on the right forward corner of the engine compartment, 3" flex hose to the left side, a steel "S" pipe through the side into the rear fender cavity and down and back to the turbo. The setup keeps the intake free from dirty air and rain.




More soon.
Cheers....

[TurboKraft]

Originally Posted by Uwon

Shaun, I picked up a radio delete plate from our host to mount some of the dials on it but it appears a bit flimsy. I will have to fab an aluminum backing plate for it. Stuff that has to be moved are the two A/C dials, 4-way flasher button, door lock switch, fuel pump switch, and two ignition coil bank switches (used to diagnose ignition problems with the twin plug Electromotive tec3r engine management system). The A/C dials and fuel pump switch can go in the radio spot. The 4-way flasher button can be moved up to the left of the fog light switch (which I still need for the rear fog light). I don't know yet how big the door lock switch is so the jury is out on that one. The coil switches may have to go immediately to the right of the steering column, but we'll see. Welcome any alternate suggestions....anyone

Lots of ways to do that, here's one we whipped up for a recent build:

[Uwon]

Chris, that dash setup is awesome! Nice and tidy. I'm in. Guess that the trickiest part is cutting out the rectangle for the center lock switch. Thanks for sharing.

[Uwon]

A couple of weeks ago I ordered new injector wiring from our fellow Pelican "Timmy2" which I just received. This wire assembly is outstanding-TXL compartment rated wire, correct rubber boots, heat sheathing, weather pack, etc. Nice and professional and reasonable too. I'm OK doing electrical jobs but I could not match Dennis' workmanship and material quality. Thank you Dennis.

[Uwon]

Took advantage of the cool sunny weather yesterday and brought home the chassis and exterior body parts from the body shop. Final paint turned out really great. There is very little orange peel that I can see at the moment. I don't know if it will change once the paint has fully cured. In any event, I will wait until the car is fully assembled to do any wet sanding and polish that may be required.



I also had the interior sprayed with Lizard Skin sound deadening. This included the roof panel, floor, front wheel wells, rear seat area and parcel self. It is supposed to be the latest and greatest according to resto people around here. We'll wait and see.

[911SauCy]

[Uwon]

LOL. Thanks SauCy.

[timmy2]

A couple of weeks ago I ordered new injector wiring from our fellow Pelican "Timmy2" which I just received. This wire assembly is outstanding-TXL compartment rated wire, correct rubber boots, heat sheathing, weather pack, etc. Nice and professional and reasonable too. I'm OK doing electrical jobs but I could not match Dennis' workmanship and material quality. Thank you Dennis.

I think I'm gonna blush!
Thanks for the kind words.
I am proud to know some of my work is going into your awesome project.
Subscribed.

[willcall]

I'm interested in the lizard skin.

[Uwon]

Originally Posted by willcall

I'm interested in the lizard skin.

Here is the site.
Spray-On Insulation - Automotive Insulation Coatings | LizardSkin
I first heard about the sound control spray from a friend of mine who is building a P1800 hot rod with a big block. Several hot rodders around the area have used it and a well respected nearby custom trim shop uses it for all their projects instead of the traditional Dynamat pads, etc. so I thought that I would have nothing to loose by putting it on as an add-on to existing sound deadening ( that is, aside from possibly having thrown away some of my hard earned $$$$). It's water based, four thin sprays with the special spray gun to the thickness of a credit card. It gets nicely into nooks and crannies. You can glue the carpets etc right on top.
Our fellow Pelican 962porsche, the guru in the Body & Paint Forum speaks highly of the ceramic heat insulation so I also used the spray-on ceramic insulation on the inside of the Carbon fiber rear bumper/valance to protect the outside paint from heat transfer created by the turbo. I did not use the ceramic spray on top of the sound stuff inside the cabin although this would be a good idea in hotter climates or in cars that have a real motor heat issue. Time will tell if it all works for me.

[Uwon]

Well, I am back to my project after having been away on holidays for almost a month in South America. I must admit that I was going through gear wrench withdrawal especially because there weren't any nice cars to drool over, just old vanilla Nissans, chevs, Toyota Tercels, etc. from the 80's and 90's. I think that I saw one Boxter in Uruguay and two Cayennes in Buenos Aires. Other than that not even an old MG or other sports car. However, I did come across this beauty that reminded me of my high school/university days when the almighty stripe made my Bug go faster.....



Anyway, before I left for my holidays, I removed the oil t-stat from the oil lines out of the donor wreck and dunked it in a penetrating concoction of brake fluid and alcohol to help me along with the disassembly. It still took a pipe wrench, heat and a high degree of force to loosen the caps. I followed the procedures well described in several threads on this forum to check out the thermostat to ensure that it still opened at 180 degrees.
The Wrench...

The test in 180 degree water...

Reassembled t-stat, and cleaned up to remove wrench markings and age discolouration.

Next, getting the dents out of the oil lines. Stay tuned.
Johan

[Devil Dog Mosport]

subscribed.. jealous!

[Uwon]

I got diverted from repairing the oil lines this week.
Purists will continue to cringe.
The cold winter weather around here reminded me that these aging bones enjoy the heated seats in our "modern" cars. So in preparation for the visit by the local leather/vinyl repair guy to my garage, I decided that my RST should have heated seats for those cold spring and fall mornings. I got the element pads, harness and switches from Amazon @ $40 per side. I disassembled the seat-backs from the '86 wreck and opened the seat bottom from the front, peeled back the cover a bit, sandwiched the trimmed heating pad between two old Masonite placemats and slid the whole thing in between the leather and foam. Next I pulled out the two Masonite placemat, slid my hand into the cavity and carefully peeled back the protective paper off the adhesive strips.





Procedure for the seat backs is easier. Access is from the bottom and in this case the pads needed some extra trimming.
I tested the seat prior to final assembly and they heat up nicely. I have not yet decided where the switches will go- I'm not there yet.
I remembered that the driver's seat had developed soft springs (foam still firm for some reason) so I slid an old thin plastic cutting board in between the spring and foam. Feels like it will do fine.



The leather/vinyl repair guy showed up yesterday and fixed a severe wear/rip on the driver's side outer seat back bolster (7 out of 10) and lightly re-dyed the outer driver's bottom seat bolster (10 out of 10), and the dash crack (7 out of 10). I'm interchanging the seat backs to avoid unnecessary wear on the repaired back bolster.





Dash before


Dash After


Fixing the dash is more a temporary fix. I want to eventually leather it along with some other interior panels. I'm planning to put the cash into a permanent carpet solution for the time being.
Johan