Installing lower valve covers

[C4UKPOR]

Would appreciate some advice about installing new turbo lower valve covers on my 79 SC.
Two questions, firstly the old gaskets are absolutely stuck fast on the motor casing and a nightmare to scrape off, especially as the motor is still in situ so there's limited space to work.
Any suggestions about the best way to remove?

Secondly, when I come to fit the new covers and new gaskets should I fit the gasket dry or should I use a silicon sealant. If I should use the sealant does it need to go on both sides of the gasket?
I'm a little reluctant to use sealant as I assume my current problem of removing the old gasket is because the PO used some sort of sealant which has welded itself to the faces of the valve casing.

[Jdub]

Yes, you do need to scrape all of the old gasket off before installing the fresh gaskets. Life the car and use gravity to your advantage, being sure to clear out any debris that gets into the engine area.

The gasket may have been cemented with something - you do not want or need to do this with fresh gaskets. Clean the area with acetone or similar prior to applying the gasket so you have a clean, dry surface. Then put on the covers and use the standard criss-cross from center to ends to torque down.

[DRACO A5OG]

+1, I like to do a gradual torque, in the criss-cross or star pattern to ensure no damage to covers. Hope you have new washers and nuts???

When scrapping take extreme care not to mar the metal, take your time and be gentle, you do not want to create a leak.

[Jerome74911S]

+2

Sorry to say, but a slow and tedious scrapping is called for.

For the new gaskets, do not use any sealer. But, you might consider the gaskets that have a small (very small) silicone bead on them as manufactured. PP sells these. Or, there are all-silicone gaskets ($$) that seal very well and can be used many times.

[kodioneill]

I wouldn't use silicone on any motor as it can glob up, break loose and plug an oil passage.

[CCM911]

Be sure to listen to Draco. Also, you need to keep at blade at a 90 degree angle, or close to it. If you lean the blade over too far, you could possibly cut into the aluminum below, and assure yourself of a lifetime of leaks.

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

+1, I like to do a gradual torque, in the criss-cross or star pattern to ensure no damage to covers. Hope you have new washers and nuts???

When scrapping take extreme car not to mar the metal, take your time and be gentle, you do not want to create a leak.

[HarryD]

Try to see if you can find a solvent to remove the gasket goop. Paint thinner, acetone, VM&P Naptha, WD 40 all leap to mind.


Once you get the surfaces cleaned, make sure all is clean and dry.

I use the factory gaskets, crush washers and nylock nuts (you can get a kit with all of this from our host). I tighten each nut until it just snug using a cris-cross pattern starting in the middle and working out (like you would do for tightening head studs). Once that are all positioned, I turn each one in the same pattern 1/4 turn. I feel the crush washer give and I am done. No leaks yet!

[Drisump]

Turbo covers do not need sealant, careful scraping is probably your only option.

[C4UKPOR]

Thanks for all the advice, I guess it's just a question of slow, laborious scraping.

[S2GART]

I just did the valve adjustment on my SC, which has the Turbo valve covers. The gasket set from our host has a very precious thin bead of silicone or whatever it was, on both sides of the gasket. I noticed that the old gaskets didn't have this, which would explain the addition of silicone by the person that last removed these. I didn't add to what was on the new gaskets, tightened in the aforementioned criss-cross pattern and tightened them "guden-n-tight", but not too tight. So leaks thus far.

[C4UKPOR]

I think I'll purchase some of those beaded gaskets from Pelican to be on the safe side, that's if I ever get the old gasket residue off !!!

[wolds]

A single edge utility blade or single edge razor blade work well.

[Jdub]

I have had great luck with plastic scraper and paint stripper. The stripper destroys the old gasket material and any glue, and the plastic prevents gouging. Works very well.

[James Brown]

no sealant. your going to be taking them off several times as you try to do a valve adjustment. use the reusable gaskets.

[HarryD]

FWIW, I use the factory gaskets which have no extra sealing materials. No problem yet and no residue to clean when I do it the next time.

[Tidybuoy]

I recommend the gaskets with the built in silicone bead. I tried the 100% silicone gaskets and did not care for them. All factory gaskets have the silicone bead as this was a factory change at some point.

I would use a plastic scraper and if it's too tough to get off with acetone or gasoline, you might try some paint stripper as Jdub stated.

Lastly, be careful with the torque. The 101 book has no mention of the correct torque settings but it's only about 8 Foot lbs. I found out the hard way when I bought the pure silicone gaskets and the directions stated 42lbs. However, I didn't notice that it was in inch lbs. Luckily I stopped long before I got to 42 foot lbs as I knew something was wrong. I was really disappointed that the 101 book did not include this critical info.

[JAR0023]

I'm with Tidybouy. I bought a set of the reusable all silicone gaskets and had leaks around the studs. To get the aluminum crush washers to seal takes too much torque for the gaskets and they squish out and leak.

I went with gaskets from Wrightwood Racing with the silicone bead. No leaks. -J

[rnln]

One thing about installing the valve cover is torque. I never have problem with other car valve cover gasket, oil pans gaskets, etc, even without torque. With 911, be very careful otherwise, you will have to redo with new gasket or having oil drip on floor.

If you can find a cheap, small torque wrench, get it. I am cheap, so I use a fairly big one, with 5 ft/lb is the smallest setting. Every time I torque these nuts at 6 lbs, I am mad at my torque wrench because it doesn't work right. It is the same between 5 to 7 ft/lb, and feel a lot more than it actually. When I open it up again, I always find some damage areas on the gasket.

[HarryD]

Honestly, a torque wrench is not needed. Tighten to snug and a 1/4 turn and you should be done.

If you must have a small torque wrench, you can get an adequate 1/4" one from Harbor freight. They go on sale for $9.99 on a regular basis.

[Peter Zimmermann]

How can I feel 6lbs. of torque?

Respectfully request that you read posts #6, #10 & #21...