Oil Lines

[Ayles]

PS, It feels like I have read every thread on this topic.
I was planning on removing the oil tank this afternoon to send in for cleaning.

Two things...
1. The PO put some sort of plug(I think it was a cork) in the line that runs from the engine to the thermostat took keep oil from dripping out while the engine was out. This very oily little bugger decided to shoot up into the oil line while I was trying to remove it. I assume forever requiring replacement of the oil line.

2. Realized my tools were not adequate.

Reading all of the threads has given me quite a bit of confusion on which tools to buy for this job. The hosts wrench? A set of large wrenches? A Dremel Tool? A giant crescent wrench? I am leaning toward a 30mm and 32mm wrench. Hoping to get the lines removed and tank out with as little trouble as possible and leaving me with some versatile tools.

[Flojo]

1. can you vacuum it out? did you try?

2. since I needn't save the old oil lines I just cut them net to the hubnut so you can grab it 360°



this is a 36 (or was it 34?)

[Discseven]

Ayles... if the plug went in, it will come out! If you can't vac it out as Flojo suggests (dam good idea), remove the line and blow it out.

Depending on the age of your car, and since you are dealing with this area, you might want to replace the two lines attached to the rear end of the external thermostat. Eventually these lines will leak at the crimped fittings.

[Ayles]

Thanks!

I have an 82 Targa. Seems like the best solution may be to just cut them off with a dremel and cutoff wheel and replace the lines. I'm more concerned about preserving the oil thermostat.

Ayles

[MConn]

Always buy the host's wrench, when possible. Someone here mentioned a cheap set -

15 Piece Metric Service Wrench Set

I have used them many times on the 911.

Mike

[JoeyD911]

Get the set of four wrenches from our host. They fit great and allow a cheater bar to be easily slipped over the end. Spray the lines with PB blaster for at least a week, twice a day, and they will come right off. I had no issues at all when I did it this way last month.

[KTL]

Be patient/careful with the lines at the thermostat. They can be real stubborn. Cutting is usually your best bet. But do a bit of striking with a hammer (hard but not too hard) to break some of the crud that usually seizes the oil line nut to the hard/solid part of the line.

Typical oil line sizes are 36mm for the large nuts like on the t-stat. The smaller ones are 32mm or 30mm. You'll occasionally run across a 27mm but not too often. That Pittsburgh set of wrenches is a VERY good deal for something you'll use very infrequently.

Just curious, but why do you need to have the oil tank cleaned?

[Ayles]

The reason for this excercise is that I don't know why the engine was out of this car and it's long gone.

I have inherited an amazing high performance engine (3.0 w/ carbs), dynoed at 279hp. I want to make sure everything is clean and don't want to take any chances.

[Ayles]

Thanks everyone for the help on this!

I am not claiming victory yet. Still have to deal with the cork issue which means removing the lines from the thermostat. I did however get the line removed from the oil tank.

Ended up picking up a couple different penetrating oils, the set of Pittsburgh wrenches and a cheater bar. Took one try tonight with the wrench and pipe combo and it came right off!

Turns out the PB Blaster is pretty nasty stuff... The way my garage and kitchen are built will not allow me to use this stuff going forward. The wife was not pleased about how it smells and how long the odor sticks around.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Ayles

Thanks!

I have an 82 Targa. Seems like the best solution may be to just cut them off with a dremel and cutoff wheel and replace the lines. I'm more concerned about preserving the oil thermostat.

Ayles

Ayles,

If you could not get the nuts off the thermostat, save both oil lines and thermostat by simply cutting the nut/s using a dremel. Replacement nuts from Elephant Racing is not that expensive. The OEM brass oil lines are expensive to replace.

Tony

[Ayles]

I haven't even tried the thermostat nuts yet. Going to do that over the weekend when I have more time. I'm going to keep at them with the penetrating oil until then.

I am definitely not going to take any chances with the thermostat and have kind of assumed I am going to need new lines at this point.

First set back of this project!!

[Flojo]

Dont worry too much about the thermostat, the nuts do come off.
Penetrating oil after cleaning the area is good.
Place some wood between it an the wheel well to avoid it bending.
Then give it a try.

I personally do not like the tip to dremel, as the risk to cut in the winding below is risky.

[Flojo]

And in case the winding does take damage/grinds of, there exists a set of cutting-in adapter nuts to fix that ;-)

[Discseven]

Ayles... while I run an '85 3.2, the body and plumbing in my 911 is from '80. Considering these parts have been companions for 33 years... and with no anti seize applied at the factory... not to be negative but I think you might want to anticipate the oil lines and external thermo stubbornly wanting to remain close companions. If they part company easily for you... GREAT!

Here's my thermo misadventure for entertainment purposes...

First... thermo is softer metal than fitting nuts so firm but respectful torque is being applied because thermo wants to be salvaged. Nuts are not budging...




Penetrating oil spa and... no response...




BBQ expansion and increased torque... not happening...




A sadistic tall blonde (who enjoys applying torture of various kinds) is called in. Under her utter lack of respect, plumbing and thermo begins parting ways... albeit not in the preferred manner...




I believe Pelican has a fix for this sort of beating but I have a replacement thermo so the interest now is to salvage the forward fittings / nuts. To do this, the entire section of oil plumbing is removed from below the car --- takes only a few minutes to get this out...




The remaining rear line attached to the thermo is cut off (because it's intentionally being replaced and is currently in the way of progress) and the nuts on the "trombone side" are heated and dunked into room temp oil. Rumor is dunking in oil is less likely to fuse threads compared to a water dunk. Success... trombone side nuts are OK.




Threads are not pristine but they'll clean up nicely given the thermo's softer metal...




Mission accomplished. (I suggest anticipating this taking much longer than you think! And having a tall sadistic blonde on call may come in handy when push comes to torture.)

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by Discseven

oh, a candidate for the "things that make you go DAMN IT" thread ;-)

[yelcab1]

I found that I have used ...

1. The special host wrench of 36mm
2. The set of Sears open ended wrenches of 30/32/36mm
3. Dremmel tools
4. Penetrating oil
5. MAPP gas
6. Removal of said units and bench vise it
7. Repair adapter welded on

So, I have all those tools. If you roll around older Porsche 911 much, you will need all those tools.

As for the oil lines from Thermostat to the engine / tank, they are now less than $100 and much cheaper than 10 years ago. Go figure! Just cut the nuts off if it gives you trouble.

[Ayles]

More great stuff! I will update with my progress.

Thanks all!

[T77911S]

i was going to pull my tank and oil lines jsut to clean them up. maybe not now

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by T77911S

i was going to pull my tank and oil lines jsut to clean them up. maybe not now

Smart T7!

(I recall sticking my nose into things just to clean, fiddle or otherwise occupy myself... then wishing I had left well enough alone!)

[Ayles]

Originally Posted by T77911S

i was going to pull my tank and oil lines just to clean them up. maybe not now

I would just clean what you can see... Maybe a little scotchbrite pad on the hard portion of the lines.

This is way to much of a PITA and potentially expensive to do it voluntarily.