I had mine square and it displaced as I tightened it down. Really came as a surprise...

Cam gasket: looks good to my eyes. Very even "stick out". Tell me if you see something else.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384834690.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384834701.jpg
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My new D/S cam oil line is REALLY off from the old one. Like a good inch and a half. On account of the way the hard line to the tensioner is routed, I really don't see how this can be remedied. New line in the background, old one in the foreground. Thoughts?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384834836.jpg

P/S fit up just fine and compares closely to the original line.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384834961.jpg

Got all the oil return tubes on. Boy this was not fun. Feel stupid for buying the wrong o-rings on these... but had to keep going with assembly. i guess its good practice should I ever need to do it in situ. But boy wouldn't you think that if Rauch & Speigel went to the trouble to recreate these from billet, they'd improve on the design somehow to make install/removal easier? I would not pay $50 per but not complaining since the PO had them on the car.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384835039.jpg

Getting ready to install the HX & x-over piper. How much does one need to clean up the flanges to get a good seal? Wire brush them to bright metal? Working on my Alfa has schooled me to the rust-preventative power of grease. This and the desire not to clean more parts means I'm leaving the grime on the rest of the heat exchangers. Are these things some sort of low grade stainless? Galvanized? They're magnetic. Wondering why they don't rust more actually.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384835208.jpg

Beside the T being off by an inch or so, I can't remember if they were the same length.

If the new one actually fit without being under tension (side to side), I think you would be OK. Your old one has a small bend in the rubber portion which make it shorter.

Has for the bending of the small line, it will bend in place. We heat up mine a bit and gently bend it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384690833.jpg

New routing:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384858121.jpg

Yep the new one fits fine side to side (its fit up in the picture I uploaded) but the T was woefully off. Frustrating. I can heat and bend the hard line.

Parts store should have a brake line tubing bender if you need to make a significant change. Good tool for the box, costs under $5 normally.

Good call. Have been meaning to add one to the toolbox. Something along these lines... Klein Tools 89030 Professional 4-in-1 Tube Bender - Amazon.com

IIRC there is 2 suppliers of these lines and we both find the one that is not 100% fit and form...

Very frustrating. To tell the truth, I could not bring myself to do it (nightmare of Kinking it instead bending it) so my buddy did it.

Low heat and he grabbed it where the bend was needed and with his thumbs & index and gently bend it by spreading is index outward.

P.S. Yes, a small pipe bender would be good

I mean, to be honest I want to call Pelican and ask for my money back but I don't know what the alternative is at this point. Are the leaks in these lines typically at the alum sealing rings or somewhere in the lines themselves such as the crimps? My original line was weeping, not gushing. Sort of inclined to re-use it the more I think about it. A bit of weeping seems like a better alternative to an oil starved tensioner.

Seems like the line is outside the range of acceptable error. Is there any version of the Carrera tensioners that these DO fit? Maybe some later model had the hard line routed differently?

Those cam plate gaskets look fantastic. No worries if it were mine. Nicely done.

I suspect the tensioner hard line you have for the D/S cam oil supply line is the older outdated one? Not 100% sure on that. I do see you have the new little line clamps. So that would lead me to believe the lines you have are the newer style.


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Take a look here at these I have and see what you think?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/732128-carrera-tensioner-oil-supply-lines-various.html

Just clean up the exhaust flanges with a scotchbrite wheel (dark red) or a wire wheel on your drill. The heat exchangers are very good material. The pipes themselves are some sort of stainless and the shrouding is very durable since it's coated with some sort of protective paint. If you spend the time to clean them up, they will look good.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384872864.jpg

If you decided to use your old one, I'm sure PP will reimburse you but after seeing your work here, go ahead and bend it :)

Here is the 3 comments listed for 930-107-347-12-M20

One mentioned the misalignment and one says Great Fit...

Look like it's the luck of the draw.

* fast service

By Tim B., submitted September 12, 2013
Comments: i needed this part fast. it was air freighted overnight. i got it the next morning. the service was great.

* Different from what I had
By John L., submitted May 2, 2013
Comments: I purchased a pressure-fed tensioner set used, and I subsequently had this line leaking at the rubber/metal interface. I purchased this one and it was slightly different in that the hard line to the tensioner was not properly aligned with this line. Pelican told me that the cam oil line I purchased was the only line (so I didn't make a mistake in picking it), although there had been many revisions in the past. I pulled the hard line and bent it to fit this line. Since then everything working fine, but I was expecting a quick, drop-in replacement and found I had to do more work. Also, the line I had yellowish color on the metal and this one is chrome colored.


* Great Fit

By OsoMoore, submitted July 18, 2012
Comments: Installed fine, taking out the distributor was tricky.

The fat cam oil lines typically leak at the crimp joints. The banjo fittings rarely ever leak. The end of the cam lines that go into the engine case sometimes leak because they are a slip-fit compression fitting. If you overtighten it, it'll leak because the compression sleeve/ferrule gets deformed.

The tensioner lines rarely leak. They just break due to vibration. That's why the tiny little rubber-lined clamps were added later on. Or the line breaks due to it being stressed/out of alignment. So don't be afraid to bend it a little to make the line align with it's connection points. If you have to force the line to move into position, that's what causes a breakage years down the road.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

I'd be shocked if the lines I have are outdated since there is every chance they have never been changed and the little rubber holder things are there. Car is an 87. Since the reviewer in the above post mentions his lines were leaking at the rubber/metal interface I suppose I don't want to expose myself to that by re-using my old ones. I will reluctantly bend the hard line. Might call PP to give them grief, see if I can get a freebie.

BTW I tried and failed to torque the rockers in place. The head of my 1/4in torque wrench is just not small enough to get to all of the rockers. My home made 5mm socket worked. But not gonna happen for all 12. I guess I'll pull 8 of them tonight so I can get them all torqued :mad:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384880420.jpg

PP says you need to buy a new oil pipe as well as it was updated. I guess the common wisdom that if you have the little rubber supports = you have the latest oil line is not correct. Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

I'll try reshaping mine per advice here. If its sketchy, will order a new pipe.

Is a tubing bender going to help me here? I just measured the line at 4mm / 1.6in. most of the benders I see stop at 1/4". Klein Tools 89030 Professional 4-in-1 Tube Bender - Amazon.com

A tubing bender you've probably already got in your toolbox is a deep socket. I use them all the time to bend brake lines.

Let me know if you want one of those lines I have in the classified link I provided. Will drop it in the mail for you.

Good point. I'll give it a shot.

Jon on this board has offered me a Bursch BX1134 (quieter one) and test pipe at a good price. I certainly wouldn't mind some more sound out of the car. Valve adjustments should be easier with the test pipe. No emissions for 25 y olds in CT Any downsides? I've read reports of the exhaust being noticeably smellier / fuelier - so much so that its unpleasant for a DD? Is a DME reprograming needed or just recommended? I'll get to a chip at some point but didn't plan on spending a ton on upgrades right now, want to get the motor clean, tight and dry first.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/736627-got-my-bursch-bx1134-today-love.html

Damn Russ, you are flying!!

There will be snow on the ground when you're ready to drive that thing and it's going to kill you!!

s'why god made snow tires Mike. I got two extra Fuchs in my garage.

That Bursch sounds pretty good. Sort of V8-ish sounding. Here's sort of what it would sound like since its the same basic muffler (Dynomax) and the car also has a Bursch test pipe on it too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1X2b9Ahx9A

Chip remap is not a must. Stock chip does OK with just a muffler & cat change.

Droppin the hammer
 

Good night in the garage. My thanksgiving 'deadline' is looming large. If I don't make it with time to shake the car down before we drive to MD, I'll live. But it'd be a great trip. And in fact, Thanksgiving 2012 is sort of the anniversary of my decision to get a 911. Wife and I were driving around the back roads of Westchester and came up behind a metallic brown Subaru. Ugly we both agreed. Then agreed that it, and any color, would look great on a 911. I knew I'd have to own one at some point, being a car guy through and through, but I had a deal with myself to drive a japanese transportation apparatus (okay rsx type s, not torture) until the Alfa was on the road. Well, I started looking for a 911 full time shortly thereafter and found my Carrera a few months later. So: Thanksgiving!

I'm surprised none of the books give tips on torquing the rockers. Even if we use the lower factory numbers, which I didn't, its really not every torque wrench and 5mm socket thats gonna fit in there. Although it pains me to undo work, I took #2,3,5,6 out, torqued #1,4 with the long extension, then replaced the rest. When going back to adjust valves I noticed that several (3 if I recall) rockers were sticking on the shafts. I backed out the bolts in tiny increments until they rocked freely. Slapped those valve covers on and felt great about it.

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With some massaging, the D/S hard line now connects nicely to the T junction.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384923592.jpg

New seals, lubed w fresh oil and the oil cooler went on.

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I did some lite cleaning on the HX's. Is that Chalky color coating visible between the far right and middle hole the protective coating? Are these things gonna rust now that the grime and coating are gone? I didn't go at them very aggressively, just knocked the grime off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384923730.jpg

Am I crazy or is this starting to look like a motor? Assembly sure goes fast once you're out of the guts and back to ancillaries. Is it crazy not to replace motor and trans mounts? I somehow never even thought about it. Probably still have time to order them if its a must do.


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