The method I used to determine rocker position was to hold one over the bore. The rocker shaft should be aligned so that the rocker does not ride on the seal channel of the shaft. You may achieve this be centering the seal channel on the small housing side. This may look odd from the large housing side as the rocker shaft head will be buried deep in the bore.

Holding from above gives a good visualization:

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps23d08823.jpg

If the seal channel is outside the housing when torqued then the rocker will drag.

Listen to your motor. That is the lesson I learned this week. Turns out the three rockers that were sticky I had installed flushed up to the THICK side of the casting. What a fool. Really glad I took the time (and it was a good 4 hours) to pull all the rockers and re-center, re-torque them. This time there was no hint of stickyness. I flushed up the rocker shaft itself to the thin side of the casting so that just the nut is proud of it.

Feel like I dodged a bullet on this one.

Also applied the JB Weld to the area of the casting inside (and outside) the Oil Cooler which Bentely specifies as having possible porosity in the casting. Not sure it would have lead to a gusher, but its easy enough to do since I had to remove the oil cooler anyway.

Now it should just be re-connections. Hardest things remaining are flywheel seal install (waiting til the motor is off-yoke) and the getting the motor off the yoke, onto the ATV jack, tranny attached etc etc.

One other sticking point: I finally got a 90 deg fuel line from len but the nut on the existing fitting is REALLY stuck on there. I can almost get at it with a deep impact socket. Smart? High-torque seems like a bad idea here... plenty to distort while trying to break it free.

Nice job dodging the bullet Russ, I will be calling you in a few weeks when it comes to my rocker install!!

Your casting isn't porous at all. It's missing altogether! What you see in your picture (slot highlighted by yellow box) is the actual steel pipe that is cast into the case half.

Back away with the deep socket. Bust out your Dremel tool with cutoff wheel and cut the nut vertically on one side to release it's grip on the regulator

I'm struggling to understand this... does oil transit thru the steel pipe or the casting walls? Is something amiss with my case?

Yep oil goes thru the steel pipe. So it's not like oil is going to squirt out of the place where a piece of the casting is missing. However there's potential for seepage and that's why they say to patch it up with epoxy.

Look closely at the Bentley image http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384991657.jpg and you see that the "dimples" are covered by the aluminum casting. Whereas on your case the thin bit of aluminum has fallen away. I suspect this leakage condition is similar to what we see with the plugs in the case for the oil galleys. If the galley plugs are missing the thick coating of epoxy, they tend to weep. Amazing how oil can find it's way thru very tight spaces and cause minor weep leaks.

I'm putting the tin back on and a few issues came up.

A/C bracket removal: did Porsche make a version of the rear tin without the cutout for this bracket? If so it would seem like one needs to patch the hole to avoid having the fan drawing hot air from below? Besides cleaning things up and shaving a half pound, are there any maint tasks that are easier without this bracket? I'm sort of looking for the path of lease resistance, but would love to clean things up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385179963.jpg

Cruise Control - I found the cruise control to be dangerous on this car - tripped it by mistake a few times. Plus it adds clutter to the engine bay. I removed the control cable. Debating If I should remove the servo or just leave it. If leave it - leave the vacuum fitting conntected? Remove and cap it?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385179984.jpg

Casting JB welded at oil pipe


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385180065.jpg

Covering it up is the easiest way but took me a while to find something to cover the hole left by the heat backdating. You could "plaque" yours.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385206791.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385206833.jpg

Ha, that would do the trick. Im still curious to know if non ac cars were supplied with a different tin, or some sort of factory block off plate...

Use a small rubber car to block off the vacuum nipple or cut the line and put s screw with some sealant in a 1" section of line.

Pinch all of the vacuum Oetiker clamps for good luck. They do come loose as the hose shrinks.

Make up a block off plate and pop rivet it into place.

Okay, will fab and rivet a plate to close off the bracket. Looks like theres an tapped portion of the chain cover I can use to fasten it as well. I really don't want this A/C bs cluttering up the bay and preventing me from seeing potential leaks etc.

A few small questions as I make my reconnections. Don't seem to have taken pictures that show these areas clearly.

1. There is a very long stud on the intake that I believe is where the fuel hard T line mounts to. I can't recall why this stud is so long. Does something else ride on this?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385234232.jpg

2. There is a bent yellow zinc piece to the side of the breather with a captive nut. Does the wire grommet thinggy for the fuel injector 4 pin connector attach to this?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385234249.jpg

Yes for the second question.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385236025.jpg

Connections are nearly complete. Anyone see any crossed wires? Backwards parts?

Going to drop the motor from the yoke to atv jack tomorrow and do the flywheel seal, flywheel / clutch / trans. I'll do as much as I can but somehow I'm not seeing my thanksgiving deadline. I might have it fire up by Monday or Tuesday, but it just doesn't leave enough shakedown time for an 800mi trip departing Tuesday night.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385264740.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385264750.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385264759.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385264769.jpg

Anyone have pics of a fully dressed motor being picked by a crane?

No Pics --- chain on front engine mount bolt near pulley
and connected to rear at bellhousing bolt with bar to hold chain or strap off of intake system
-- or steel bar with 2 chains to front and rear of engine.

Regards,

Where's the fuel line across the back???

Have you run a bamboo skewer with some fine sand paper into the electrical connectors to clean up the corrosion??

Replace fuel filter?

Charge battery?

Wow Russ, doing great! I am leaps and bounds behind you now!!

Good eye Jon - crossover fuel line being re-fab'd this am on account of it being too short by 1". Fuel filter - you referring to the one on the D/S of the engine bay? Is this an auto parts item or a pelican parts item? Haven't replaced.

I used Deoxit and blue (fine) scotchbright followed by deoxit flush on the electrical connections.

Coming down the home stretch!

I installed my intake after lowering the engine off the stand and onto a rolling cart - I know that's no help to you now...

You may already plan to do this, but I'd suggest you make as many connections on the trans side of the engine as you can before reinstalling the engine. I installed the half of the airbox that bolts to the AFM, installed the breather and vacuum lines - anything that would be really easy now, and a PITA when in the car. The down side is that there's more to keep an eye on when raising the engine into the bay and some risk of breakage, and airboxes can be brittle and can be expensive to replace.

It's easy to get into a rush-to-the-finish now - be sure to look over everything twice before taking each next step.

Good luck!
GK

Between the negative temps in my garage today and the tightness of my schedule, I'm just going to take my time.

I just epoxy repaired my airbox last night, seems to be holding up. Will install prior to engine install, along with the vacuum hoses.