1st drop & top end observations & questions

[Brown747]

Originally Posted by r-mm

Anyone have pics of a fully dressed motor being picked by a crane?

I used a cargo strap from HF with one hook in the lifting eye at the front and the remaining length wrapped around the corners of the rear mount bar with the slack tied up at the lift eye. This picture was taken after removing intake on the dolly then lifting to stand. Used the same rigging after the motor (3.0 CIS) was completely assembled on the stand and lifted to set back on ATV jack for install into car.

HTH Thor

[r-mm]

Revisiting the guide tube since I'm now ready to install it - I bought these socket head cap screws to replace the countersunk screws:
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

Can anyone confirm if they provide enough clearance for the G50 TOB? I can't recall how I ended up with those or where I read that they would work.

Originally Posted by KTL

No problem.

Guide tube is a light press fit into the trans case bore. How does that input shaft seal look? Now is the time to replace that one. It's much more prone to leakage than the pesky crankshaft seals. But it takes some patience to get that one out.

You have to be careful not to drive the seal into the diff housing because there is no "stop" or stepped flange behind the seal bore. You can beat on the seal and then all of a sudden, OH NO, it just disappeared on the shaft into the diff housing! No worries if that happens. You just open the diff side cover and take out the diff, then cut off the seal. Removing the diff is actually easier than removing the seal!

Those oval head screws are indeed a pain sometimes. But they're a necessary evil. The clearance between the guide tube screws and the release bearing is rather tight. I don't believe typical socket head cap screws will clear the bearing. The screws are just low strength M6x1.0 oval head or flat head with a countersink base. I just buy them at my local hardware store since they're really nothing special.

Don't be tempted to over-tighten them or loctite them. As you can see, they stay in place just fine. I've often had to use a drill bit and fluted extractor to get those out. The Phillips head just doesn't have the strength to hold w/out stripping. A trick to get better bite on the Phillips head is of course to use the right size screwdriver (rule of thumb: always use the biggest size possible) and put some grit paste on the tip. Valve lapping compound or rubbing compound for polishing your car works good.

It's tempting to use hex drive flat head screws but that can be painful later on for someone if they're hardened or stainless. 10.9 class screws are pretty darn hard if they have to be drilled. Ideally the goal is to avoid stripping the head. Hex drive are certainly MUCH more reliable than Phillips!!!

[r-mm]

The socket head cap screws look like they should fit since they partially sit in the countersunk holes. I don't love putting a non countersunk fastener in a countersunk hole, but it squared itself up and these are not hi-torque fasteners.



I got a new hose to re-do the crossover line I had made too short. In removing the Oetiker stepless clamps (the ones designer for hose) from the too short line, I noticed that they have quite a bite. Did I over tighten them or is some crimping inevitable with any high pressure clamp?



This time I made the crossover a bit long, on purpose. I figure that a little extra slack will give me more routing options and I can stop vibration by zip tying it to other things. I didn't clamp down the D/S just in case someone cries foul and suggests a straighter shot.

[beren]

Epic thread r-mm - been reading thru this all day. Hope to be able to accomplish this with my 911 and this thread will be amazingly helpful.

[r-mm]

You can do it! I'll pay it forward and try to help you as much as some of the guys on this thread who did the drop n top before me have been helping me.

[Jcslocum]

Rus, did you change the CHT??

[r-mm]

Yep, got a two wire CHT. It's dangling from the harness now cause I can't install the D/S front tin until I drop the motor from the yoke.

[KTL]

I'd just replace the guide tube screws with the same pan head style regular philips head screws. If they were to strip in the future? No big deal. They're easy to remove with a fluted screw extractor. Just make sure you don't loctite the screws in place. That's not necessary.

That impression on the hose is typical of Oetiker clamps. They grip nicely. Next installation of the clamps, don't do a full crimp where you squeeze the ear completely closed. Base your crimp on how much squish of the hose occurs as you're closing the crimp. But even though the first installation looks like it was too tight, you can see it didn't harm the hose.

There should be an odd shaped plastic bracket and long socket head bolt that clamps the metal portion of the fuel line to the vertical bracket. You can see it's part #26 in this picture



The bracket also carries the rubber portion of the rear crossover line.

I've always been fortunate enough to lift the engine by myself or with one guy thanks to the equalizer/spreader bar that came with my cheapo Sam's Club foldable hoist. We do it just like Thor shows with the lifting loop at the rear and the factory engine crossbar installed on the engine mount console. Some chain, large nuts & bolts and a large lifting hook from the hardware store are all the parts we needed to arrange the the equalizer for clearing the intake at the rear and clearing the fan shroud at the front.



Nice thing about the equalizer is it allows you to balance the lifting of the engine, with or without the trans attached, just by cranking the trolley rod at the top. Not saying the equalizer is a must. Obviously Thor's method of using the lifting strap works fine. I already had the equalizer so I might as well put it to good use.

[r-mm]

Wow I'm nearly certain that I did not have #26 when I took my car apart. I took really good pictures, didn't loose any parts (I think) and can't recall seeing that. Sure its not a turbo or 915 piece? I checked PET but is it possible that there's a mistake?

The x-over line had the factory crimps on it so I'm pretty sure mine wasn't monkeyed with but who knows.

[KTL]

I'm certain that's a proper piece for our Carrera fuel injection system. Same bracket used on both 915 and G50. I actually have one of those brackets on my '87. I remember it well, trying to figure out the orientation of it when putting it back together after an engine drop & intake removal. I'll sell you mine for one millllllllion dollars?

No big deal if you don't have it. A handful of cable tie zip strips can replicate the function of the fancy bracket pretty easily?

[r-mm]

RSR fuel line bracket! Very rare.

Yeah I'll do zip-ties.

[r-mm]

Guys a few connection questions -

I don't think the breather tube holder was fastened to the airbox when my engine came out. PET lists the fasteners as "tapping screw Bz 4, 8x16" what is this in English? Or - any reason not to use a long M4 bolt + nut?




I finally sorted out the 90 degree line with Len. However I realized that the bracket that is part of the hard T was never fastened down on my motor after someone re-hosed it. Len sent me picture below. It looks like the bracket attaches to the regulator bracket. This is a REALLY tight fit. I monkeyed with that bracket a bit but still, this seems tricky. What's the sequence of assembly to make this junction work?



I can't get the bracket on the hard line to clear the nut on the right side of the regulator. Do I need to take stuff apart to make this happen?

[JAR0023]

Originally Posted by r-mm

Guys a few connection questions -

I don't think the breather tube holder was fastened to the airbox when my engine came out. PET lists the fasteners as "tapping screw Bz 4, 8x16" what is this in English? Or - any reason not to use a long M4 bolt + nut?

It's just a phillips head self tapping screw, pair of them actually. Screw runs through the bracket and then into the airbox. Screw heads facing to the right side of the car. The problem I see with using a bolt and nut is removal once the engine is in the car. If you ever have to remove the airbox with the engine in the car the nut and bolt would be a pain to access. -J

[Smoove1010]

Originally Posted by r-mm

PET lists the fasteners as "tapping screw Bz 4, 8x16" what is this in English? Or - any reason not to use a long M4 bolt + nut?

I ditto JAR0023 on this one - use self-tapping screws here. It's tough enough to get THOSE out when removing the airbox while the engine is installed, such as when you need to replace a hose or service your AFM.

Originally Posted by r-mm

I can't get the bracket on the hard line to clear the nut on the right side of the regulator. Do I need to take stuff apart to make this happen?

I had the same dilemma, and I needed to dismount the regulator, then position the hard fuel line above the regulator into that gap between the regulator and the intake. That's a very tight fit, and I couldn't find any other way to thread that hard line into that space. Clearances there are tight. On the up-side, still a lot easier with the engine out!

[r-mm]

Thanks guys, I will proceed as such.

Smoove - believe me, while I'm working on the back of the motor, barely getting my smallest wrenches and pliers in the guts back there while holding a shop light between my neck and shoulder... I shudder to think about trying to work on this area with the motor installed.

Originally Posted by Smoove1010

I ditto JAR0023 on this one - use self-tapping screws here. It's tough enough to get THOSE out when removing the airbox while the engine is installed, such as when you need to replace a hose or service your AFM.



I had the same dilemma, and I needed to dismount the regulator, then position the hard fuel line above the regulator into that gap between the regulator and the intake. That's a very tight fit, and I couldn't find any other way to thread that hard line into that space. Clearances there are tight. On the up-side, still a lot easier with the engine out!

[GaryR]

As that is just a breather line why not just make up something to stop it from wagging around to make life easier if you ever want to remove the airbox? I assume that's why the PO didn't bother screwing it back into place. Can you notch out that bracket so the breather line just snaps into it? Won't go anywhere, no need to ever remove the screws (or bolts if you like)...

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by r-mm

... while I'm working on the back of the motor, barely getting my smallest wrenches and pliers in the guts back there while holding a shop light between my neck and shoulder...

3 for $10 at Costco, slightly higher elsewhere.

Photo from the internet.

[r-mm]

Happy thanksgiving all. Ill be back at it tomorrow, hopefully getting pretty damn close to hitting the key this weekend. What is the recommended running in oil? I tried to be as careful as possible when cleaning parts and keeping openings to the case plugged, but to be conservative i plan on changing oil fairly soon into running in. Ive had the car on dino before the rebuild but was unaware about the whole zddp etc thing and will use rotella, vr1 or similar as my std from here out. But...anything in particular i want to do for the first start?

[KTL]

Nothing special besides good oil. Get a case (3-one gal jugs) of 15w40 Chevron Delo 400 LE from Costco

[Smoove1010]

I used Rotella for the first 500 miles, and just changed it out for the Delo from Costco.

I was most concerned about the rings breaking in, and they did so pretty fast. There was no detectable oil consumption in that first 500 miles. My anecdotal experience, therefore, was that the Rotella worked fine for breaking in the rings. I say that fully understanding that ring break-in is a result of a combination of factors of which oil selection is one. (How's that for a disclaimer!)

I did follow what seems to be the forum-favorite break-in routine:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Looking forward to hearing how your first light goes!
GK