Without the muffler there, plenty of room...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386152820.jpg

mine is straight but its an 86.

While on the subject if the pivot point is stiff, its a good time to take it apart and clean.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386165940.jpg

The G50 rod is bent for sure. here are pics of it on the way out. Maybe I accentuated a bend without realizing it...



I realize that there's space to remove the bracket when the muffler is off, but was wondering if its safe, as those bolts to a large degree are holding the motor in place. I suppose I can relieve them by jacking up the motor some.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386166344.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386166371.jpg

Yes, IIRC I put the bracket the wrong way the first time I dropped the engine and had to removed it and put it the right way while in-situ.

Yep that stock bracket is a bit confusing looking. I'm really glad to be done with it and the stock muffler, straps, cat, cat heat shield. Lotsa junk out of the way.

Any tips on leveling the motor carrier ? Am I over thinking this?

I wouldn't bother leveling the engine mount crossbar. It's going to take whatever set it wants once it bears its weight on the rubber engine mounts. You also may find that the crossbar needs some leaning on to get the ends to line up fore/aft with the holes in the engine mounts. No big deal, as this is quite common. The crossbar's strength is in the vertical direction, so flexing it fore/aft is a non-issue.

Yep your throttle rod is all bent up probably from grabbing the axle shaft on the way out. Bend it back carefully and take a close look at it. You may need to reinforce/weld it if the rod is showing some cracking where it's been sharply bent (not the first time I bet).

Thanks for the last minute tips, all. She's going up tonight! Must admit I did not sleep well last night thinking through all the things that could go wrong when I fire her up, but this comes with the territory.

Same here, I had my wife cranking her up while I monitor the engine bay. Nothing happened on the 5 sec crank but se start right away on the second try (actually she had never started it on the 1st shot even with the PMO/EFI conversion but I think I got it isolated to lost of fuel pressure due to a faulty gas pump check valve.

Yes, I was relieved even though oil was gushing out like crazy by the Oil Pressure Sensor. It turn out that the fitting was only hand tight.

Best of luck with the start-up.

The motor is in.

Sorry, no pics yet. Too late a night to d/l them.

The bulk of positioning, raising, lowering was cake. The final alignment to get the mounting bolts to thread was awful. I started with the motor on an ATV jack and the trans on a dolly. I rolled the motor roughly into place then lowered the car as far as I could while leaving decent access. Then I started raising the motor+trans up, which required me to use a jack on the trans. The jack isn't on casters so it makes lateral (and longitudinal) movement really annoying. I made it happen but it was cold and un-fun.

Left the garage the moment I heard the last click on my torque wrench so connections and oil pressure building are tonight's task. Clutch slave and FI multipin are connected. Once I get everything else hooked up...

-Disconnect fuel pump relay; this is in the frunk fuse block right?
-Leave spark plugs off
-Crank til I see pressure - what am I looking for? Consistent ~4bar?
-Check for oil leaks
-Turn off
-Reconnect fuel pump relay
-Turn key to run, check for fuel leaks
-Fire that SOB up

Hopefully you did not you the term in front of her... "She", like some woman. can be very vindictive :D:eek::D

Term of endearment.

WOW!!

What progress. Post a video ASAP after you crank her up!!

Not sure if the G-50 mount allows it but I loosen the four mounting bolts that attache the mount to the tranny on my 915, allows some movement and greatly eases getting the mount bolts lined up. I always do the tranny mounts first, then the rear engine, then sock everything down...

Congrats! I broke this job up into two parts just as you did, this allowed me to go about all the hook-ups with a clear head.

- The DME relay under the driver's seat gets disco'd - this cuts power to the fuel pump;
- On cranking, my oil pressure jumped a few times then pinned (as it always does when cold) in about :20 of cranking. I then did as you suggested (without calling her an SOB though...)

Good luck!

Thanks guys.

Hopefully this little fella will be making the right types of noises later on this evening...

Also looking forward to enhanced grumble from the Bursch & bypass.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386268034.jpg

Gary - good tip on loosening the trans carrier to trans bolts for added adjustability. Didn't think of that.

No need to disconnect all the spark plug leads. Just disconnect the coil wire from the coil itself.

All the 911 builds i've done, when cranking the oil pressure gauge only wiggles. Just over zero but less than 1. When I got the racecar, which came with a mechanical gauge (oil line directly connected from gauge to engine, no electrical sending unit) the engine would only give just under 20 psi during cranking. Then when it fires it flies up to 100 psi

If it doesn't fire up (not trying to wish ill will on you) two easy checks that come to mind:


1. Make sure you've got the reference and timing sensors plugged in correctly. You can switch connections and the engine won't start, since connectors are exactly the same.

2. Make sure you connected the fuel injector harness that plugs into the harness plug in the middle of the rear shock absorber support.

Thanks Kevin. With the plugs I meant to say I left the plugs themselves out to help the motor turn over. I'll install them post oil pressure test. I got the 4 pin FI connector plugged in but sure I'll forget some little vacuum line somewhere...

Sorry I didn't tell you BEFORE the nightmare..... :)