Originally Posted by r-mm (Post 7772449)

Anyone have pics of a fully dressed motor being picked by a crane?

Originally Posted by KTL (Post 7715076)

No problem.

Guide tube is a light press fit into the trans case bore. How does that input shaft seal look? Now is the time to replace that one. It's much more prone to leakage than the pesky crankshaft seals. But it takes some patience to get that one out.

You have to be careful not to drive the seal into the diff housing because there is no "stop" or stepped flange behind the seal bore. You can beat on the seal and then all of a sudden, OH NO, it just disappeared on the shaft into the diff housing! No worries if that happens. You just open the diff side cover and take out the diff, then cut off the seal. Removing the diff is actually easier than removing the seal! :D

Those oval head screws are indeed a pain sometimes. But they're a necessary evil. The clearance between the guide tube screws and the release bearing is rather tight. I don't believe typical socket head cap screws will clear the bearing. The screws are just low strength M6x1.0 oval head or flat head with a countersink base. I just buy them at my local hardware store since they're really nothing special.

Don't be tempted to over-tighten them or loctite them. As you can see, they stay in place just fine. I've often had to use a drill bit and fluted extractor to get those out. The Phillips head just doesn't have the strength to hold w/out stripping. A trick to get better bite on the Phillips head is of course to use the right size screwdriver (rule of thumb: always use the biggest size possible) and put some grit paste on the tip. Valve lapping compound or rubbing compound for polishing your car works good.

It's tempting to use hex drive flat head screws but that can be painful later on for someone if they're hardened or stainless. 10.9 class screws are pretty darn hard if they have to be drilled. Ideally the goal is to avoid stripping the head. Hex drive are certainly MUCH more reliable than Phillips!!!

Originally Posted by r-mm (Post 7775825)

Guys a few connection questions -

I don't think the breather tube holder was fastened to the airbox when my engine came out. PET lists the fasteners as "tapping screw Bz 4, 8x16" what is this in English? Or - any reason not to use a long M4 bolt + nut?

Originally Posted by r-mm (Post 7775825)

PET lists the fasteners as "tapping screw Bz 4, 8x16" what is this in English? Or - any reason not to use a long M4 bolt + nut?

Originally Posted by r-mm (Post 7775825)

I can't get the bracket on the hard line to clear the nut on the right side of the regulator. Do I need to take stuff apart to make this happen?

Originally Posted by Smoove1010 (Post 7776368)

I ditto JAR0023 on this one - use self-tapping screws here. It's tough enough to get THOSE out when removing the airbox while the engine is installed, such as when you need to replace a hose or service your AFM.



I had the same dilemma, and I needed to dismount the regulator, then position the hard fuel line above the regulator into that gap between the regulator and the intake. That's a very tight fit, and I couldn't find any other way to thread that hard line into that space. Clearances there are tight. On the up-side, still a lot easier with the engine out!

Originally Posted by r-mm (Post 7776377)

... while I'm working on the back of the motor, barely getting my smallest wrenches and pliers in the guts back there while holding a shop light between my neck and shoulder...