Be sure to check the cam housings for clean spray tubes. You don't want any of those pin-holes to get clogged with a piece of crud.

The reference sensor bracket does have only one sleeve. No worries there. Lucky for your yours came out of the sleeve cleanly? Sometimes that sleeve won't part ways with the sensor and you have to mangle things a little bit (destroy old sensor) to get it apart.

The split bushing on the release bearing is correct. See the complete tech bulletin for new style bearing

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382365062.jpg

If the carbon bugs you, you can take it off. But when you think about it, it's just going to come back when you run the engine. A good "solvent" for getting it off is WD-40. Believe me, it works. Just spray it on and leave it for a few days and the stuff will scrape off easily. I have used other more nasty solvents and it's not worth the brain damage since you're not in a hurry.

Thanks again Kevin - great info.

That split on the TOB interior bearing surface did look intentional but its great to have confirmation from The Bible.

I did a quick dry fit of the guide tube to tranny and it did not slip right into place. Guessing this is one of those parts that needs a bit of tapping into place? I ordered cap screws to replace the god awful panheads that I (thankfully) managed to get out after whaling on my impact screwdriver for a solid five minutes. Getting them out clean was immensely satisfying however.

No problem.

Guide tube is a light press fit into the trans case bore. How does that input shaft seal look? Now is the time to replace that one. It's much more prone to leakage than the pesky crankshaft seals. But it takes some patience to get that one out.

You have to be careful not to drive the seal into the diff housing because there is no "stop" or stepped flange behind the seal bore. You can beat on the seal and then all of a sudden, OH NO, it just disappeared on the shaft into the diff housing! No worries if that happens. You just open the diff side cover and take out the diff, then cut off the seal. Removing the diff is actually easier than removing the seal! :D

Those oval head screws are indeed a pain sometimes. But they're a necessary evil. The clearance between the guide tube screws and the release bearing is rather tight. I don't believe typical socket head cap screws will clear the bearing. The screws are just low strength M6x1.0 oval head or flat head with a countersink base. I just buy them at my local hardware store since they're really nothing special.

Don't be tempted to over-tighten them or loctite them. As you can see, they stay in place just fine. I've often had to use a drill bit and fluted extractor to get those out. The Phillips head just doesn't have the strength to hold w/out stripping. A trick to get better bite on the Phillips head is of course to use the right size screwdriver (rule of thumb: always use the biggest size possible) and put some grit paste on the tip. Valve lapping compound or rubbing compound for polishing your car works good.

It's tempting to use hex drive flat head screws but that can be painful later on for someone if they're hardened or stainless. 10.9 class screws are pretty darn hard if they have to be drilled. Ideally the goal is to avoid stripping the head. Hex drive are certainly MUCH more reliable than Phillips!!!

No wonder I could not remember seeing that split bushing when I did my clutch, 87-89 only.

Now that I learned something today, I can go home :D

On that trans input shaft seal - I changed mine, but in the process of pulling out the old seal the spring from the back of the seal popped off and remained inside the trans. I ended up having to take the side cover off the trans, and move the diff out of the way to get that little spring out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/752417-g50-differential-removal-need-basics.html#post7465672

Not really a big deal, but having to source the cover o-ring delayed the operation by a day. In retrospect, I should've taken the side cover off the trans, moved the diff out of the way, then tapped the seal out from the inside...

Either way, I'm glad I changed it.

Geez......... I gotta get a life. There I am, with a lengthy post as usual, in your input shaft seal thread! :D

Okay guys another mini-stumper -

PET shows that the upper hex nut comes off with the fuel line on this little 90deg section. But I CAN NOT get the sob to budge and don't want to jack anything up. Tips here?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382394260.jpg

Kevin - We don't blame you living in Illinois after all... hockey season is just starting. :)

R mm I emoved mine yesterday. I put the regulator in a vise lightly and spun the nut off with my battery powered wrench. Worked like a champ. Hope this helps.

Scott

Spent the evening re-studding the chain covers (removed the old studs for thorough gasket removal, replaced them with SS) and installing my newly cleaned and balanced fuel injectors. They went on nice a easy with a tiny smear of clean motor oil, per Witch Hunter Performance's recommendations.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382409545.jpg


Meanwhile I'm sort of agonizing over how to buy gaskets. A la carte or kit, and if kit Victor Reinz or Wrightwood Racing. My machinist is providing the valve stem seals so that is 12 things I don't need from a kit. If I go a la cart, its basically Victor Reinz stuff that's available. I hear many good things about the wrightwood racing kits... to be honest I don't really know what all those O-rings are for. Or are some of those washer? Can someone enlighten me?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382409773.jpg

Yeah lets see if the Hawks have what it takes to do it again!

That fuel line nut just below the crimp collar should spin right off. Doesn't take much for them to be stubborn though. The compression fitting seems to allow for easy over-tightening that really makes the nut difficult. Happens all the time on the fuel filter elbow fitting.

Try rapping on it with a hammer. Striking works good to jar things loose vs. just leaning on it with heavy pressure. If it turns out to be a real bear & won't come free (not likely) you can cut the nut lengthwise to free it. I've got one of those exact fuel line fittings you can have for nothing.

As an aside I recall doing a strut assembly replacement awhile back on our LeMons BMW E30 "race car" during a race & we were struggling with getting the tie rod end out of the steering arm. Neither the pickle fork or press tool would pop it loose. Even heat wasn't getting it to let go.

Those types of connections always scare me because the tapered press fit of the rod end pin can be a tight one, despite the low torque on the castle nut, and a press tool with all that stored energy is a loaded gun waiting to go off. When it lets go, it can jump off the assembly!

Buddy Stefan (pro Jeep/Dodge mechanic) let us struggle with it for a while and finally had to step in. Grabs the hammer and just starts wailing on the steering arm, HARD. 3 or 4 few hard whacks at the loaded connection & it popped. "Gotta shock it!" he said. :D I'm sure he sees this on a daily basis.

Of course in Rus' situation here, we're not dealing with a hardened rod pin and steering arm. But a bit of striking still is my suggestion!

I gave it a few taps with my 17mm box wrench but maybe I'll get out the body hammers and give it a few directed whacks.

Okay you can all breath again, my gasket decision - which is the last major purchase I need to make - has been completed. Wrightwood Racing for the win. I talked it through on the phone with a experienced builder who was not at all down on Victor Reinz but did remind me that its not just the valve stem seals which are viton, its all the O-rings such as the cam seal, throttle body seal, chain tensioner seals etc. Feels good to get the good stuff. This rebuild is one of the first operations I've done on which I haven't flinched for a minute about buying the right tools, chemicals, parts. My Alfa rebuild is a multi-year odyssey for which I can beg/borrow/steal/invent tools and techniques but the 3.2 rebuild is a get-it-done affair and I am eager to prove to myself and my friends and family that I can in fact pull it off and drive the car to Maryland for Thanksgiving. We shall see.

The difference in price ($95) is not bad either :)

7th & 9th down the page Patrick Motorsports | Porsche & Mid Engine Conversions

Not all seal are created equal as I found out... Post 8 shows the difference; http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/609149-oil-cooler-seals-leekage-engine-wall.html

Another topic I meant to throw out there for debate:

The A/C compressor and rear condensor are presently off my car. The cost and complexity of figuring out the right menu of improvements (and religious wars on this subject) made me decide against investing in "working" a/c. I survived the summer. Plus this is an occasional car for me and we have a Honda for terrible hot days. I'm really tempted to leave all those cast brackets off the motor on reassembly, and to strip the old hoses out while they car is up in the air.

The hoses would be replaced if I even decide to pony up for A/C so removing them is sort of a no-brainer. The brackets on the other hand... are those replaceable with the motor in? I believe the answer is no... what would you all do?

Of course I did not really need it with the top down all the time, so last winter I removed everything to do with the AC, brackets, hoses, condensers, you name it, except for the two 2 small vent in the middle of the console but if I can fit some kind of meter in that space, they are gone...

Being slightly south from here, I think that you can easily survive the summer without it, so rip everything out and enjoy the few more HP's from the weight reduction :D:):D

Technically speaking, you cannot increase your HP by deleting weight. But, you can improve the power-to-weight ratio and therefore accelerate faster, F=ma and all. And because F=ma, you cannot change the top speed of the car by just dumping the weight.

What's the old saying, 100lbs is equivalent to 10hp? I just add boost pressure/lbs to compensate. ;)

Anyone re-hose this 90 degree line? I'm not loving the way this looks...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382496537.jpg

Also, on dropping the long a/c line from the P/S bay to evaporator I came across one fastener that was a nut on a stud instead of a hex head bolt. The whole assembly spins. Is this factory ? How can I get to the other side of it? See foreground...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382496593.jpg

Therein lies the problem with that hose. Len (BoxterGT) has a fix for that, not cheap, but a lot cheaper than the factory.

Many, many threads out there on this little piece of hose.

Keep your pimp hand strong. Only way to keep those hose straight.

Wrightwood all the way, most or all seals/o-rings are viton (green), and get the Elring RMS from them too (while your in there)...

I went for Wrightwood am happy I did. Didn't see the kit on PP so bought it from EBS - very nice guys. Haven't received it yet. I bought an Elring RMS from Pelican and will drive it in, dry, with a home depot version of the Porsche tool as soon as I get the existing one out. Which is not that easy since I mounted the yoke to the same side of the case as the "1 o'clock" recess that facilitates RMS removal.

So.... turns out I ordered the G50 shifter shaft seal instead of the input shaft seal.

1. Very little is posted about the shift shaft seal here - presuming nothing special required to change it?
2. I would really like to ignore the input shaft seal. I hate the smell of trans fluid and can not smell a drop. Have no reason to believe its leaking. It also seems like a huge pain in the ass to change this thing. Someone please sanction this decision.

I only change my Main Shaft Seal because I suspected a leak...

Turn out there was one as it was perfectly clean when I re-split a few years later.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1294572870.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1294574348.jpg[/QUOTE]

I will reveal the trick if you explain your user name.

Shift shaft seal is very easy to replace. Probably don't even need to replace it. No signs of leakage? Don't disturb it. But it is very easy because there's a metal ring molded into the exterior of the seal. You just use a hammer and lightly tap on the ring to drive the seal out of the bore. Use a suitable sized large socket on the ring to drive the new seal in.

The mainshaft seal is quite difficult to remove because you have to come up with a puller solution. Or, do the smart thing Smoove1010 did. Don't hassle yourself trying to wrestle the seal out from the bellhousing side. Just take the diff cover off, remove diff and drive the seal out from the inside of the diff housing.

Spam bot.

First spam bot I've ever met who wanted to know how to install a slave cylinder rather than refinancing my Viagra loan.

Kevin & all -

Remind me what the "upper" surface on the flywheel mates against and how perfect it needs to be? The clutch disc doesn't seat against it (see test fit with old disc), so I'm guessing that the "main" face of the flywheel is the only one that would contribute to chattering.

I ask because the accumulated rubber bits around the periphery (the area that the clutch disc does NOT contact) and on that "upper" surface probably trapped some condensation over time and I have little spots of corrosion there. I've naval jelly & wire brushed most of them away but some are persistent. How critical is this area?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382641760.jpg

That area just needs to be flat. If it's not flat then the clutch doesn't seat on the flywheel well and you can get chattering from uneven engagement of the clutch "foot"

Also, when a flywheel is resurfaced, it's cut on both of those surfaces to maintain the same distance between both surfaces. Cutting them both the same amount maintains the same amount of clutch foot travel

If yours has just a bit of corrosion on it, i'd not worry too much. There's no spinning contact on that upper surface because obviously the clutch is screwed onto it. Just needs to be flat.

Thanks Kevin. I wiped it down, pressed in the new pilot bearing then put it aside.

Proceeding onto seal replacement.

I got a good "start" on the flywheel shaft seal by whacking at the 1 O'clock position and will pick one of these up to try and pry it free: Seal Puller

I tipped the tranny at a 45deg angle with the input shaft facing down to "test" the input shaft seal. After a few hours I could wet my finger with some trans fluid. Not sure if this is a fair test of the way the seal performs when the car is on the road, but considering I also MAPP'd the hell out of the guide tube screws and now see that the shaft seal probably got baked in the process, I guess I gotta bite the bullet and replace this SOB.

I know Smoove votes for removing the diff and doing it right. That technique is certainly under consideration.

Has anyone else tried this approach which is said to replicate the Porsche tool? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/735021-964-g50-input-shaft-seal-removal.html

Say I succeeded in using that pipe extractor - how would you drive the new one home but not into the trans?

Thanks Kevin. I wiped it down, pressed in the new pilot bearing then put it aside.

Proceeding onto seal replacement.

I got a good "start" on the flywheel shaft seal by whacking at the 1 O'clock position and will pick one of these up to try and pry it free: Seal Puller

I tipped the tranny at a 45deg angle with the input shaft facing down to "test" the input shaft seal. After a few hours I could wet my finger with some trans fluid. Not sure if this is a fair test of the way the seal performs when the car is on the road, but considering I also MAPP'd the hell out of the guide tube screws and now see that the shaft seal probably got baked in the process, I guess I gotta bite the bullet and replace this SOB.

I know Smoove votes for removing the diff and doing it right. That technique is certainly under consideration.

Has anyone else tried this approach which is said to replicate the Porsche tool? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/735021-964-g50-input-shaft-seal-removal.html

Say I succeeded in using that pipe extractor - how would you drive the new one home but not into the trans?

I usually just whack the seal at the notch hard enough to deform it and then it comes free with some light prying via a seal removal tool at local hardware store. One of these Lisle types.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382713968.jpg

I think that test is a good one. I've had my 915 out of the racecar for a long time. Been sitting upright on the bellhousing on a couple of 2x8s and no sign of gear oil getting past the seal. Granted, my trans is empty of oil. But still over time there would be enough residual that would eventually pool at the seal from sitting upright for so long.

That pipe removal tool is very ingenious! But honestly, don't hesitate to pull the diff out. It's VERY easy. Remove center bolts from diff output flanges by installing a couple of CV bolts and using those bolts for counterholding by slipping a pipe or wood dowel (broom handle?) between the bolts. Center bolts of the flanges are not real tight. Then take off diff housing cover and pop it free by striking the edges with a rubber mallet. Diff comes right out after that. Now you can drive your old seal into the diff housing and mangle the hell out of it with a pair of side cutters to cut it off the shaft.

Drive the new seal in with a length of 1-1/2" or 2" PVC pipe, can't remember which size. I like to use a PVC coupler fitting because they're already straight on the end. When you cut a straight piece of pipe, its usually crooked- for me at least. I couldn't cut anything straight if my life depended on it.....

The key to the pipe size is that its inside dia. is small enough to line up with the seal and the outside diameter is large enough so that it contacts the trans case, thereby ensuring you can only drive it flush with the case and no deeper.

Agreed.
This is the tool I describe in the other thread. I use this going at the inside diameter of the seal and use a plastic screw driver handle or block of wood as a fulcrum over the crank.

The flywheel seal came out without too much drama using the HF tool I posted above. I "dented' the metal portion of the old seal then gripped it with the tooth of the puller and used repeated little tugs to get the seal free.

What is the right tool to use to "ease" the edge of the case so it doesn't scratch the new seal on the way in?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382837800.jpg


And a bigger question... even though they look very clean to me, I think it makes sense to replace my coated dilvar lowers with steel lowers. I'd like to stick to my plan not to remove the P's from the C's.

How exactly do you get the wrist pins out of the pistons if you want to leave them in the jugs? I got the clip out of no 1 and tapped the wrist pin towards no 2 then realized I was out of room. What sequence does this happen in?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382837779.jpg

I have just done this. You need to make a small hooked tool which will fit through the wrist pin and you can then hook onto the other side and pull it out towards the ends of the engine. I used a metal coat hanger. Make sure that the hook is smaller than the wall thickness of the wrist pin so you remove any risk of scratching the small end bearing bush. Some of my wrist pins didn't exactly just 'slide' out and I eventually used a piece of stiffer wire for some of the pins with the hook made at one end and a loop at the other which I could put a bar through and pull/tap/hit as required, to drift the pin out.

My cylinders didn't have that third lower sections to them.

That's the piston, whiz...

I got them all off with the pistons in the bores. Then accidentally pulled on of the pistons out. No big deal. I'll measure the lands etc then put it back together.

How do you all recommend I pull the studs? Smoove I think you used a pipe wrench? Will a tool like this that can be used with an impact wrench be a better bet?
Titan Stud Puller - 3/8in. Drive, Model 16023 - Amazon.com
Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 647082 Metric Stud Puller - 4 Piece: Automotive

The lowers, which I will be pulling, look very clean, no corrosion or irregularities, minimal chipping of the coating, so I'm hoping for a smooth removal process.

I used a stud extractor of type as shown in your amazon link except for one which was broken off too close to the case, at which location I used an extractor as shown in your second link! The first type that has rollers inside which grip the stud as it is rotated. I didn't use any heat, just turned them and after an initial crack when the Loctite let go, it was easy. Two other broken ones I had that were flush with the case I had professionally removed though! I had 7 of the lower 12 snapped on my engine!

I used the Titan version (on the Heat Exchanger) which got a grip like a normal drill chuck.

As the were no movement by hand, I use an air gun starting at low pressure (IIRC 25 pound and increase in 5 pound step. Work like a charm, only broke 2, one came out and had to drill the other.