1st drop & top end observations & questions

[r-mm]

Keynsham - you had 7/12 lowers snap while attempting removal!? Was this an earlier car or one like mine with the coated dilvar studs? How were they visually?

Originally Posted by keynsham1

I used a stud extractor of type as shown in your amazon link except for one which was broken off too close to the case, at which location I used an extractor as shown in your second link! The first type that has rollers inside which grip the stud as it is rotated. I didn't use any heat, just turned them and after an initial crack when the Loctite let go, it was easy. Two other broken ones I had that were flush with the case I had professionally removed though! I had 7 of the lower 12 snapped on my engine!

[whiz05403]

Originally Posted by r-mm

That's the piston, whiz...

I got them all off with the pistons in the bores. Then accidentally pulled on of the pistons out. No big deal. I'll measure the lands etc then put it back together.

How do you all recommend I pull the studs? Smoove I think you used a pipe wrench? Will a tool like this that can be used with an impact wrench be a better bet?
Titan Stud Puller - 3/8in. Drive, Model 16023 - Amazon.com
Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 647082 Metric Stud Puller - 4 Piece: Automotive



The lowers, which I will be pulling, look very clean, no corrosion or irregularities, minimal chipping of the coating, so I'm hoping for a smooth removal process.

That's classic, how did I not recognize those being the sides of the pistons when I just took out my pistons yesterday!! I have the Nikasils so I separated the jugs and pistons.

I plan to attack the exhaust studs tomorrow as well. I bought the tool Wayne recommended in his book.

[r-mm]

I've started reassembling parts connected to the intake manifold. Injectors and fuel rails are in place. My refab'd T fuel line has been mocked up. I had a picture of the old T from disassembly so I think I have the fittings oriented correctly but can someone look at this and tell me if the fuel lines are routed correctly and what relationship they're supposed to have to the intake manifold? Do they touch?



I refinished the D/S flapper box which was very satisfying. Completed the job with some top of the line SCEET tubing. This stuff bends so nicely and will likely outlast everything else down there.



Cleaned up the area around the flywheel seal. Can someone tell me how I'm supposed to ease the edges of the case?

[KTL]

I use the double nut method on the studs with good success. I would also recommend using heat on the studs to help lessen the likelihood of breakage. Sometimes the threadlocker has a very strong bite on the stud.

The fuel line can be protected with the coil that was on the old fuel line. It's just wrapped around the hose and you should be able to "unwind" it.

[r-mm]

Originally Posted by KTL

I use the double nut method on the studs with good success. I would also recommend using heat on the studs to help lessen the likelihood of breakage. Sometimes the threadlocker has a very strong bite on the stud.

The fuel line can be protected with the coil that was on the old fuel line. It's just wrapped around the hose and you should be able to "unwind" it.

Thanks Kevin - I found a few of your older posts suggesting dbl nutting - I will pick up some M10's tonight and give it a shot after MAPPing the base of the studs/case.

Spiral... well... my fuel lines had already been replaced at some point and the spiral has been lost. Says NLA on pelican. I'm sure something like this exists on McMaster just don't know what to call it?

[KTL]

The round cross section spiral wrap doesn't seem to be all that common any more. Typical stuff you find nowadays is flat section. Look up spiral wrap on McMaster.

[whiz05403]

You're way ahead of me with my build. I haven't even looked at my tranny since I separated the two. If you want that Snap On Collet stud removal tool I can mail mine to you.

Kevin, some pistons and cylinders are coming your way!!

[r-mm]

Thanks to Kevin I gave the $1.00 stud removal tool a shot before dropping more bucks. Two M10-1.5s, a little bit of PBlaster and a few box wrenches got all 12 out in as much time as it took to spin the wrenches. I heated the hell out of the first one and it chattered like CRAZY coming out. Tried the rest sans heat, they broke free with very low torque. All dilivars looked a-okay to me, but judging by the failure mode seen in images on this forum, you never know, so 12 steel studs are on order.



Feeling good, like this is the last big unknown in my rebuild. Of course there is still the unknown of will it spew oil / fire when I start it up, but at least all the tricky fasteners have been dealt with. All the engine tin has been repainted and I think I'm ready to proclaim that it only gets more assembled from here on out. Wrightwood kit coming Thursday. Heads should be here by the end of the week. Head studs and input shaft seal here on Monday. I'm hoping to have this thing looking like a motor by the end of next week.

[Smoove1010]

Good progress!

On those fuel lines, the originals on mine were "clocked" so that the rubber sections did not contact the intake manifold at all, and I duplicated that when I replaced the rubber sections.

Keep-em coming!
GK

[keynsham1]

Keynsham - you had 7/12 lowers snap while attempting removal!? Was this an earlier car or one like mine with the coated dilvar studs? How were they visually?

I had seven of the lower studs found snapped when I took the engine apart! None of the remaining ones snapped when I took them out but two had to be professionally removed as they broke close to the case and that Dilivar stuff is HARD!

[r-mm]

Okay this was posted elsewhere on the forum and I need to echo its genius. 6" section of 1" threaded pipe. Union. Puller. The pipe threads onto the input shaft seal so perfectly and what's more, the pipe's ID matches the input shaft itself very very well. Couldn't imagine a factory tool performing much better. $6.





Received my Wrightwood Racing gasket set. Gasket inspector approves.



Anchor atlantic reports that heads have been UPS'd to me and should arrive Monday!
Progress marches forward.

[Smoove1010]

That's ingenious! I love these Home-Depot-Sourced tools - put that right up there with the rear axle bearing puller...

I couldn't tell from the pic - did the spring that wraps around the back of that seal come out with the seal?

Nice work,
GK

[KTL]

I agree that's a fantastic recreation of the factory seal removal tool. Here it is captured from the 993 repair manual

[r-mm]

Spring was on the seal, right as rain. It was a very nice controlled pull.

What should I do to the head stud threads before installing my new steel studs? I don't own any chases/taps etc. Do own a compressor and loctite red.

Bigger question - what should I do to the carbon on the top of the pistons, which are captive in the cylinders (but removed from the block). I don't need them to be clean, but I don't want them to drop carbon on my brand new heads. The one piston I accidentally removed from its bore had impeccable measurements.

Also - any harm in re-using wristpin circlips? Any trick to installing them?

[GaryR]

I would clean the piston crowns of all carbon, easy to do while leaving them in the bore but be sure to clean the gap between the top ring and top of piston well. I've used the same circlips in two top end rebuilds (race motor), no issue. I use mid-length needle nose pliers.

[Smoove1010]

Originally Posted by r-mm

Spring was on the seal, right as rain. It was a very nice controlled pull.

Sweet!

Originally Posted by r-mm

What should I do to the head stud threads before installing my new steel studs? I don't own any chases/taps etc. Do own a compressor and loctite red.

I made a chaser by taking a bolt with the same size threads and cutting some grooves perpendicular to the threads with a thin cutting wheel. I ran that in and out a couple of times, then blew the holes out with compressed air.

Originally Posted by r-mm

Also - any harm in re-using wristpin circlips? Any trick to installing them?

I reused mine. I positioned them into the groove using needle-nose pliers with a rotating motion which got about 3/4 of it into the groove, then pushed it in the rest of the way with a small screwdriver until I heard it click. I did a careful visual check to make sure they were in position before moving to the next one. Make sure you stuff rags/towels into the spigots in case one of them pops and goes flying - you don't want there to be any doubt as to whether it's down in the bottom end...

[r-mm]

Any reason not to use an old head stud as the home made chaser you describe? How does the perpendicular cut clean out the thread?


Can someone tell me if I have my gaskets ID correctly? Most confused by the package with the thick, hard, shaft seal looking ~2.5" object, large black o-ring and several smaller ones. Don't recall removing anything like this from my motor.

Also just realized that not every motor has the collapsable oil return tubes so the kits don't include the little o-rings on the collapsable sections. grrr.

[r-mm]

Forgot to mention - if anyone wants the valve stem seals from my kit they're free to a good home. Anchor Atlantic supplied new ones with my heads. Will trade for oil return tube little o-rings! They're marked Victor Reinz, came in the Wrightwood kit. Not sure if that makes them Viton?

[keynsham1]

Also - any harm in re-using wristpin circlips? Any trick to installing them?

I wouldn't reuse the wrist pin circlips. Bearing in mind the very low price is seems false economy not to replace them. I will be replacing mine as a matter of course as once I had a refitted one fail in a motorcycle engine and it wrote off the piston and the barrel. Not too expensive on a Yamaha RD350LC, but somewhat worse on a 911!

I started a thread on the 911 Engine rebuilding Forum called "Wrist/piston/Gudgeon pin Circlips" asking this very question. There may be some good advice there.

[GaryR]

I'm surprised to see the red oil cooler seals... viton are available last I knew.