Replacing ignition switch

Rouxzy · 08-25-2002, 06:30 PM

I need to pull my ignition switch in my 77. I have the outer ring taken off. Where do I go from here. I need to replace the ignition electrics.

Mike the mechanic · 08-25-2002, 07:07 PM

Hi, once you remove the trim plate/ring, you need to remove the two bolts that hold the switch to the dash. These bolts are anti-tamper bolts so you will need a little punch or chisel and a little hammer to tap the bolts loose. Once those are off, reach under and pull off the round connector/plug. There is one more bolt left that holds the long part of the switch to the steering column. T gain access to this bolt, you must remove the lower dash trim. the last bolt points downwards and is a hex head (I think 5mm) but is locked in place by a 13mm nut. Loosen the nut and then the bolt. the switch assembly should just slide out.
Hope this helps.

Mike
86 Carrera (soon tt)

Todd Steele · 08-26-2002, 05:56 AM

If you are just replacing the electronics due to poor contacts or intermittent power issues and don't plan on re-keying or replacing the lock unit...you can buy an electrical assembly from Pelican for $45.00.

Get behind the dash and pull off the wire harness from the ignition key unit, and you can replace the electrical unit by removing new two screws. If you are replacing the wires you should be able to access them from under the dash. Not quite sure about a 77 you might want to wait for a few others to post. This solved all my intermittent power issues on an 89 and 91.

Just a thought before you remove the whole assembly.

echrisconnor · echrisconnor's Garage

I did this just a couple months ago on my '76. Previous posts are correct - the tricky thing is removing the anti-tamper bolts. Two methods worked for me. The top bolt I was able to take my dremel and grind a small channel into. That allowed me to get a screwdriver in and turn the bolt to loosen it. The bottom bolt I used a different technique.

Some of the anti-tamper bolts have a slot cut into the treaded end. With a thin screwdriver I was able to come in from the back and unscrew the bolts using the slot in the back of the screw. Un-plugging the wiring harness gives you a lilttle more room to work with.

Good luck.

c

john walker's workshop · 08-26-2002, 07:12 AM

the breakoff bolts can be removed by drilling a 1/8" deep hole in them, and using one of those short, spiral easyouts. there are 2 pop rivets that need to be drilled out too. after loosening the locknut on the setscrew, it can be backed out a couple of turns with a long 4mm allen socket with the ball end, which allows you to insert it on an angle. if you have one, the kneepads can stay on. don't take the setscrew all the way out, due to no room to reinstall it with the pads on.

weber92037 · weber92037's Garage

Todd, what kind of "intermittant" electrical problems have you experienced. My 87 lost all power three time recently, twice while parked in the garage and once while driving. All power to gauges and ignition, lights, etc. was gone, but the power windows still had power. I'm interested to know if your experience was similar. I wiggled the switch and pushed in a plug forward of the switch, but I never did pin point the problem. Thanks. Chuck..

Todd Steele · 08-26-2002, 10:46 AM

Chuck,

I would loose power to the radio and heater controls. I did all the usual, tracing wires, checking fuses, cleaning up ground attachments and nothing solved it. I found the issue by tracing the power to the ignition switch on the wiring diagram (I am not an electrical type guy).

Once it though it was the issue I started the car and slowly turned the key counter clockwise to the off position. After moving the key slightly the contacts mated and the radio and heater started working…..when I released the key it moved to its normal position and contact was broken.

So I was pretty certain it was the switch, for $45.00 and two hours of time I was willing to take the risk. After reading many posts here (lot’s of Warrens i.e. S-Man’s 7000) I would start by checking the ground points on the car first. Good luck…..

weber92037 · weber92037's Garage

Sounds similar, Todd, but I lost all power to everything. Car would not turn over and nothing worked. Good luck with the ignition,

Rouxzy · 08-26-2002, 04:20 PM

Thanks alot guys. All I need to do is replace the electrics that I bought from PP. I will try to take it out from behind rather than take out the ignition out. Deeply appreciate the help.

Tony911Z · Tony911Z's Garage

Todd-

What was your method for removing and replacing the top screw for the electrical portion of the switch? I tried unsuccessfull a week or two ago. I'm sick of starting my car with a philllips head screw driver.

Thanks

Sunroof · 08-26-2002, 06:48 PM

agree..I replaced mine last year with some help. but that screw holding the top part of the electrical portion is a mother!! I had to bend scrwdrviers and try all kinds of home made tools to reach it. One thing I do recall is that I had to remove about four electrical -relay cionnectors. Be careful when replacing to make sure they all match (color code).

Good Luck
Bob

Todd Steele · 08-27-2002, 06:58 PM

You may think it's stupid, but when I can't reach a screw and hold it in place to start threading it, I use one of two different methods. I push the screw through a piece of masking tape (sticky side to the screw driver) and run the tape up the screw drive shank or I put a piece of double sided tape in the screw head and stick it to the screw driver. It holds better than a magnetic head and helps me get the screw started. Sorry to the purists, but a little double sided tape never hurt anything. I can’t remember the method used on the electronics, but I know I used a stubby driver. Hope this helps.

Todd

Rouxzy · 09-02-2002, 05:24 AM

Well, there was more wrong than originally thought, the ignition came out in pieces. I bought the ignition electrical from PP for $45, but it is the part that this plugs into that is in pieces. I looked up in PP and the only thing I could find was the whole switch assembly for $312. I don't believe I need the whole assembly. Is it possible to purchase just the switch that the electrical plugs into?

john walker's workshop · 09-02-2002, 07:12 AM

not following you. what's broken, the outermost plug with the wiring attached, the electrical part that attaches to the steering lock with 2 screws, or the steering lock itself? you already have the new electrical switch, right?

Rouxzy · 09-02-2002, 10:50 AM

All set John. After I got everything out I found out that it was the electriclal switch that had fallen apart,(which I already have and planned on replacing anyway). Took everthing apart installed new electrical switch and put back in car. Turn key and presto everything is working perfectly. Thanks again for all the help. I took your advice on the set screw and lock nut under the dash. It worked just like you said. You are the best. Thanks again!