Removing DME Tutorial?

[Pstallo]

I'll be installing a Steve Wong chip soon in an '86 3.2. Not sure if it matters, but I have power seats. I'm wondering what the best method is to get to and remove the DME.

Do I need to remove the driver seat to get to it?
Is there a tutorial on how to do this?

[vancouver86/911]

No need to remove the seat. Slide the seat back as far as it will go. Get a ratchet and the correct socket and remove the nuts on each side of the DME. Lift the DME up and forward. The wiring harness will be attached to the DME. It will be self explanatory which side of the wiring harness comes off the DME. To replace the chip is a whole other story and tutorial.

[DRACO A5OG]

Just go to Steve's webtsite and download the instructions on installation.

Remove floor mats, it will be easier.

The nuts are 10MM, I recommend deep socket. Remember the DME, once in your hand, and still attached, press the metal release clip then swing the DME out liken to it being on a hinge.

Once there follow Steve's instructions, don't be shy these DME are tough little cookies and can take allot of abuse ( except for solder joints which is heat related ).

Where you located, maybe a local Pelican with his chip can guide you???

Jim

[Pstallo]

In Huntsville, AL. I just got a premuffler from Brian at RarlyL8 the other day. If I have trouble with your instructions, I bet he could give me a tip. He was extremely nice, BTW and the premuffler looks solid as a rock. Can't wait to install it!

[GH85Carrera]

Just slide the seat all the way back and raise the seat up as far as possible with the electric motor. The DME is easy to get to and remove. Be careful with the little washers and be sure to reinstall them.

[yazhound]

I am not sure if this is helpful or of any benefit, but when I had my DME out before putting it back in I placed padding under it. I used the hmmm, grippy, foam like cabinet liner folded up square to the size of the DME. The bolts are long enough to make this work without too much hassle. Somewhere in my brain I figure it may isolate the unit from shocks and bumps somewhat.

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by yazhound

I am not sure if this is helpful or of any benefit, but when I had my DME out before putting it back in I placed padding under it. I used the hmmm, grippy, foam like cabinet liner folded up square to the size of the DME. The bolts are long enough to make this work without too much hassle. Somewhere in my brain I figure it may isolate the unit from shocks and bumps somewhat.

This brings up a good point. The biggest reason for the solder failures on the 3.2 DMEs is vibration. It was pointed out to me by an expert rebuilder that the flat mounting of the DME is actually a design flaw. It should have been mounted vertically so road vibration wouldn't flex the boards. You look at most of the other DME applications (Volvo is a good example) and they are mounted vertically.
I've since wondered if using a combo of suspended mounting and gel cushions would alleviate that.

[DRACO A5OG]

Yeap, most of the race cars I see at the Dyno shop watching Steve Wong custom tune have their DME's mounted on vertically.

My car is a daily, set up with some stiff suspension. I had my DME re-built couple of years ago just for safe measure.

[Scott S]

Interesting. I have the seat out of my car right now. Having full access to the DME, would you guys recommend adding some sort of rubber insulator/shock mount?

[yazhound]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Yeap, most of the race cars I see at the Dyno shop watching Steve Wong custom tune have their DME's mounted on vertically.

My car is a daily, set up with some stiff suspension. I had my DME re-built couple of years ago just for safe measure.

You actually watch as Wong does his thing? That must be worth watching.

[Pstallo]

Originally Posted by yazhound

I am not sure if this is helpful or of any benefit, but when I had my DME out before putting it back in I placed padding under it. I used the hmmm, grippy, foam like cabinet liner folded up square to the size of the DME. The bolts are long enough to make this work without too much hassle. Somewhere in my brain I figure it may isolate the unit from shocks and bumps somewhat.

I think I will find something to isolate it. The ride is bumpy enough and if I ever get around to the suspension I imagine it might get a touch bumpier. Would one of those square gel mouse pads work? Probably about 3mm thick foam.

[DRACO A5OG]

I would add the thin rubber spacers you can find at Home Depot, there is enough threads for the jam nuts to still fit properly.

I do not recommend placing anything underneath the DME due to heat sink. If you drive her for 20 minutes and pull the DME, you will see what I mean.

[Pstallo]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

I would add the thin rubber spacers you can find at Home Depot, there is enough threads for the jam nuts to still fit properly.

I do not recommend placing anything underneath the DME due to heat sink. If you drive her for 20 minutes and pull the DME, you will see what I mean.

Duly noted. I didn't think about the heat factor.

[DRACO A5OG]

I think I will ask Steve to post a youtube or vimeo on removal and spliting the DME to replace the chip. Stand by... I would do it but I rather have the professional do it

[DRACO A5OG]

Sorry, nope he too shy :-)

[aquazulu2]

I read also that vibration and mounting cause most of the failures in the DME relays
They fail much more often than the DME. That vibration has attributed to the broken/separating solder joints.. The relay is mounted on a metal tab and is suspended in mid air. I expect that tab vibrates like a tuning fork.. I plan to fabricate a slide in cradle when I get back inside at the wiring.