This is comforting.

Oh the irony...It was a "grenade", or at least plenty of shrapnel. Best of luck A&F. The market is saying fix it. Keep us posted.

[yt]SR6iYWJxHqs[/yt]

Edit:
No imbedding?
Bruno Mars - Grenade [OFFICIAL VIDEO] - YouTube

Wow. I hurt my eyes looking at that busted crankcase.

Even though this is everyone's nightmare, nevertheless you say you are comforted by the options as far as crankcase replacements are concerned, so in the long run it suggests to us that you are willing to give it a go.

Good for you. It will take a while and it won't be easy, but you will be an absolute pro when you get finished with the job.

Best of luck. This forum will offer tons of excellent advice.

I feel for you dude, because I have been there. I had a connecting rod break and break off part of the case and made the whole thing a giant paperweight.

Personally my car had too much sentimental value (we drove away from our wedding in it) for me to get rid of it. But there are times when I struggled with what to do with it.

I pressed on and eventually went with a replacement motor.

Good luck

Oh, sorry to see that.

I've thrown rods through two 912 cases...exactly the same place as you did. In both cases, the rod endcap came off (failed nut?). I know the "anatomy" is different, but I would be surprised if your crank came through unscathed.

Obviously, that motor is not going to be rebuilt, regardless.

Go ahead and take it apart if you have the time and space, but your big decision is weather to sell the roller or buy a new motor. You've already lost the money you're going to lose (...the motor and the value of a car with its original motor). Nothing you can do from this point will change that. You just have to ask yourself if you have the cash to buy a new engine, or should you just walk away from the mess. A tough choice, no doubt.

Obviously, you have the skill to pull an engine, and if you can do that, you can recoup some value by putting in another one. That's worth something, and there are many that cant. If you decided to sell, I suspect you'd come out ahead (relatively) versus just selling the roller.

Tough choices. Sorry for your loss.

I feel for you dude!
 

carnage from road atlanta two weeks ago full race motor. -less than 10 hrs on it..
bam bam coming out onto the back straight..

its no a pretty site indeed a lot od paperweights involved net rod 5 always goes poorest oiled i hear.

the blood adds a bit of drama... those rings are REALLY sharp when they shatter

good luck will be long winter for me..

cheers
frank

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#2 rod is A&F's busted rod. Geneman's rod is #5. Pretty much the same deal either way. #2 and #5 are in the middle of the crank and get oil fed to them last. That's because the rods are fed oil from the ends of the crank and the oil travels inward from there.

The obvious question is why did it happen? Lots of engines have been run hard for years with a stock crank and no major problems. So it'd be good to know what caused the oil starvation at the rods last to get oil on the crank.

I would like to see the rods and caps before I blamed it only on oil starvation. Nasty none the less. Your car looks like a nice one and well deserving of the expense of whatever it cost you now. I think you will find it to be wisely spent when looking back on it.

i am shining up the pistons custom fit JEs btw..... and givng the good ones to each of my brothers as a christmas gift cigar ashtrays? paperweights? personal protection device ? who knows ..

A&F, I'm really sorry to see this, and it's a hugely unfortunate way to start a relationship with a car.
Especially after all the forum rhetoric about 3.2 being "bulletproof".

$10,000 makes this problem go away. Rebuilt engine. Or best offer.
Porsche 911 Engine Rebuilt Motor with Warranty 3 2 Carrera | eBay

Here's one for $8500
Porsche 911 3 2 Engine 1987 Weekend Rides | eBay

Sorry to see this thread. I kind of yelled out when I saw the rod.

I sort of had a similar issue with my 73' 2002 Tii in the Fall of 2012. IT just kind of "popped" and smoked. I turned it off, and it ended up having some piston slap. I had a ring failure from overheating with mild warping of the head. My dad bought the car new in 1973. He tried to sell the car to me for 10K as is. I laughed at him and he gave it to me because I promised to rebuild it.

And rebuild it I did. Top and bottom end rebuild. Resurfaced head, new valves, seats, cam. overbored cylinders with new pistons, new bearings on bottom end and rods (bottom end was good). New oil pump (mine was fine, but just in case...). 100% new cooling system. Refreshed and uprated suspension, rebuilt original MFI that we kept all these years (It had dual webber 40's prior... the MFI rebuild was a big expense due to tuning and having to send it to the other coast for rebuild), partial interior restoration. Then I went wild with a LSD, brake refresh, air/fuel sensor, new fuel pump (expensive also), and many less sexy mechanical fixes and refreshes. The cosmetics were mostly untouched, but the engine bay was repainted "while we were in there" (As you ca imagine I did a lot of that, but I figure it should be good another 40 years).

Here I am enjoying the hell out of it and "getting my money's worth"
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1411700135.jpg

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...psvkgbfygd.jpg

can't resist
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6920f198.jpg

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Was it wort it? HELL YES. Was it expensive? HELL YES.

Your car does not have the emotional attachment. If it was me I would swap in a 3.6. Bank 20K for the engine and getting it properly installed. Bank another 10K for the other upgrades in suspension in brakes that you will want to make it a safer and balanced car.

Mind you, for 30K, you can get a solid running 3.2. That is what I paid for mine and it had 47K miles. Selling what you have will help cover those costs by 10, maybe 15 grand. Part out what you can of the engine. A replacement engine is probably ~10K and the most sensible approach. Be careful where you get it though...

My philosophy, no matter what the disaster--automotive or otherwise--has always been to Fix It. If you don't have the skills to do so yourself, find a skilled professional who does. Do not give up!

I don't trust either. Looking at that "shop" for the remain... I suspect I would do a better job remaining a motor. He also wants $2,500 for a core. (I'd gladly pay $2,500 for a core lol.) So that's a $13,000 eBay motor.....

Same story with the other... A professional dismantler but driveway shots?

Well I feel your pain.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1418699383.jpg
Mine happened shifting from 2nd too3rd at about 3500rpm loud banging noise I shut the engine off and it started smoking knew I was in trouble. Will pm you.

Come on guys... this thread needs a warning. It is going to give me nightmares.

I think the price of used 3.2s just skyrocketed.

Seriously, this is scarey. D@mn!

Yikes, 3 windowed blocks in one thread, sorry to read about all you fellas misfortunes, hopefully you can get things sorted out and back on your way enjoying the cars soon!

3.2 Porsche engines are very, very tough. My guess is all the ventilated crankcases were "rebuilt" engines.

My recollection is Porsche suggested changing the rod bearing cap bolts/nuts with new hardware when changing rod bearings. Don't reuse the old hardware..those rod bolts don't like to be torqued much more than once.

Change out the rod bearing hardware and have the rod big ends checked and trued at a machine shop.

You "could reuse" the hardware on the smaller 911 engines..like 2.0, 2.2, 2.4 and maybe the 2.7...certainly not the 3.0 and 3.2..best not take any chances with your engine.

If the rod bolts and nuts are reused..there is a chance of this sort of problem.

My engine was never rebuilt and had 107 k on it