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Need advice, both drop links broke. What part do I need to fix?
HI
Hard story to convey but basically I notced that both my front drop links had cracked at the threaded monoball point. Not sure why, I am guessing too much stress at that point due to it not being properly mounted. Thats another story. Here is a picture of the product. The part that broke is the small threaded pivot that attaches to the gold bracket on the top of the sway bar. Any suggestions on what to use in it's place or where to get a replacment?? ![]()
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here is the broken piece. I am not sure what the part is called
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That part is called a "Heim joint". They're sold all over the place. Gotta have the specs, though. Size, thread size, left or right hand thread, material. You might want to contact the place you bought the kit, or the manufacturer.
The Cap'n |
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thanks cap'n! Smart racing made the product but they are not selling suspenion parts anymore. Also they are somewhat MIA now. I will see if I can find a replacement at a local
shop. Knowing the part name helps!!
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Those are obviously aftermarket. What brand? Patrick Motorsports, Tarett Engineering or Rebel Racing will probably have parts.
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Google "Heim joint"....... There are a lot of sources there, and you can measure what you have, check the thread size, pitch, and direction to aid in ordering.
The Cap'n |
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Selecting rod ends or Heim joints is an area manufacturers can extend their profit margin and/or make their product more competitively priced. Some use inexpensive carbon steel units; the best rod ends are made from high quality, high-strength, heat-treated alloys and other high-end treatment. In addition, there's a wide quality range between them. For example, the cost for a typical 5/16"-3/8" (M8) rod bearing can be $3-$100 each (x 4 for two front drop links).
If Smart Racing were still in operation, they would probably replace the failed rod bearing. Street applications usually don't create as much stress or suffer catastrophic results compared with track use, so plan accordingly. BTW, famed race driver, Jim Clark, crashed and died when his sway bar (or link) failed at speed. Here are a couple of sources (no affiliation) for rod ends. NMB /NHBB Rod End Index Suspension Arms, Bushings and Accessories, Heim Joints from Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop Sherwood |
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The Cap'n is on the right path. You're going to want to know the material and thread direction/size of the thread.
The item that broke in your suspension can be replaced by purchasing a "rod end" from the Aurora company (site below) Rod Ends, Spherical Bearings & Bushings - Aurora Bearing Company Typically - these parts brake at the threads (the weakest point of the part in tension or compression) - maybe you might want to use a higher strength material - as it looks like the one you have that broke may be experiencing a side load it wasn't expecting. Cool part though!
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'The forever project car - 1979 911SC targa - getting it running right was a task, read about it here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/722362-dads-911sc-i-am-finishing-rebuild-long.html Other cars: 1993 Corvette LT-4/ZF6, polo green. 22 Ranger 4x4 with a couple cool things. Last edited by Robey5; 06-24-2014 at 09:31 AM.. |
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I got my smart racing replacement parts at Jerry woods
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Spiderman
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Good Ol McMaster Carr
Has a huge selection. I would assume they're a purchased part. I'd be surprised if anyone made their own. Measure yours up and buy.
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Just spoke with Jerry at Smart Racing aka Jerry Woods racing. Nice guy and explained to me why the part broke. I did not have it tightend down all the way and it twisted on the swaybar.
This put pressure on the thread until it broke. Makes sense when I look at it. The car was not in use yet so a proper nut and bolt check had not happened. He is providing me with the proper parts. great service!! Cheers John
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