Removing intakes

expat · 04:40 PM

So I'm going to remove the intakes to get to this oil leak I have at the back of the engine.

While the intakes are off, should I attend to anything else? I was thinking an inspection of fuel lines would be in order having read a few threads on this. Anything else worth swapping out?

Except for the oil leak the engine runs great and I'm of the opinion that if it ain't broke don't touch it, but I also understand a 'pinch of precaution is worth a pound of cure' (or something to that extent!)

Besides new gaskets for the intakes, is there any other parts I'd need? Do these gaskets use a sealant?

Having taken the intakes off, will this have had any effect on running of the engine (mixtures etc). Sorry - don't know much about P-cars but I'm trying to learn.

PS this is on my '87

Thanks
Mark

82SC · 09-24-2002, 05:07 PM

first off I'd decide whether or not I am going to drop the whole engine or not...I'd lean towards taking th whole engine out...it take a little more work...but it is SO much better then trying to work in that cramped engine bay...

I've got my engine on the ground as we speak getting a whole lot done to it...

so if you decide to drop the engine...I'd do that first to look at the back of the engine to see what really is the problem...

(I have experience with my CIS...don't know about your 87 Motronic stuff)

Plus the BIG thing is taking off the CIS is so much easier with the motor on the ground...and it gives you so much access to the engine...my engine is sparkling clean now and it is really satisfying...

I had a somewhat difficult time taking the CIS off with the egine on the ground...I CANNOT imagien the contortionist stuff I'd have to do with my head stuck in that clausterphobic engine bay

first locate the leak and fix it...
then check all the normal places:
breather cap gasket
oil thermostat o-ring
oil breather hoses
engine oil cooler seals

and if there is too much gunk to tell I'd replace them all...all those seal will probably add up to around 20.00...and it is cheap insurance

while the engine is on the ground I would buy 2 cases of brake cleaner and a whole lot of steel brushes and clean your entire engine and tranny...makes your engine look better, makes the engine run a tiny bit cooler...and if you do have more oil leaks you will be able to tell where they are

then do a vavle adjustment (so much easier with the engine out of the car)
change your spark plugs, dizzy cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, maybe new spark plug wires

do an oil change, tranny oil change, tranny bushings

haha seems like a lot seeing as you only asked about the oil leak...but I had to take the engine out cuz of an oil leak, and while I was there I decided to do all of this and set my mind at ease...I am also switch to 964 cams...

obviously you don't have to do everything...but it is a good time to do it

anyways...just a thought since I was in your postion about 3 weeks ago...I will post details and pics of my project in a couple weeks...

MJ

TimT · 09-24-2002, 05:21 PM

I would isolate the oil leak and/or intake leaks before I start, then the day before I would de-grease the engine....... get it all clean then remove your intakes..... You will be less dirty and there is less chance of dropping assorted doo-doo into you engine.

The gaskets go on dry.. just dont be an ape tightening the bolts

expat · 09-24-2002, 06:30 PM

Thanks for your suggestions guys.

I'd love to drop the enginbe but I just don't have the equipment and space.

Just to clarify, I think the leaks is coming from here.

APKhaos · 09-24-2002, 08:17 PM

Mark,
Having removed, rebuilt, and replaced the entire intake side plumbing on my 3.2, its going to be much, much easier with less risk of dropping something down the intakes with the engine dropped. Not talking removing the engine - just a partial drop that will give you an extra 6" of working space.
There's a tech note on this, and [I think] a section in Wayne's book on the partial drop. All it takes is a floor jack and some wooden packing.

Disconnect the fuel lines in and out, disconnect the DME and sensor harnesses, throttle linkage, and breather lines. Then, if you can get to and remove the intake flange hex barrels, the entire asseble lifts off fairly easily. Once the intake assembly is off, access to the rear of the engine to replace the standard seals and o rings [82SC's list] is a breeze.

It might take some work to remove the old gaskets - they tend to weld themselves onto the intake. Need to carefully shave off the old gaskets, then very carefully sand the flange surfaces flat.

This is a good time to check your fuel lines - they have been known to crack at the rubber to metal joint point.

expat · 09-24-2002, 08:53 PM

Ok...I'll check the how to's on the partial drop. Just seems like this is going to take more time than I had anticipated.

Its complicated by the fact that I'm working in a very small confine and if it rains I have to stop because the carport is not long enough to fit the length of the car and then me behind it.

Thanks for your help. I'll look into it.

Mark

KTL · 05:54 AM

Keep a telescoping magnet tool handy for removing the barrel nuts and washers. Make sure you have removed twelve nuts and washers before yanking the intake! I found it easiest to get the barrel nuts off by using a ball-end hex key with the bend ground/cut off of it. You can then use your socket wrench to get the nuts off. I also think the cut off ball-end key makes it easier to torque the nuts when the intake is reinstalled.

Don't forget to unhook the long throttle return springs on the bottom of the intake before lifting the intake off the motor. It's easy to stretch these springs and deform them. Did it myself!

Tony's right when he says those gaskets will be stuck to the intake and/or motor surfaces. They're only paper gaskets. So, you'll have to stuff some paper towels in the ports and then do some scraping (use gasket remover to save time and wasted energy) to get all the crud off.

Good luck.

expat · 09-25-2002, 04:11 PM

Kevin,

Was your engine out of the car when you did yours, did you do a partial drop, or was the engine left in situ?

Thanks
Mark

stlrj · 09-25-2002, 05:14 PM

I had oil leaks at the back of my 3.2 too but was able to fix them without removing the intakes.
First, I cleaned off all the oil using simple green and hosing it off. With the engine clean I was able to find exactly where the leak was coming from after driving it for a day.

In my case, the crankcase breather hose clamp was loose, I hope you're as lucky.

Cheers,

Joe

KTL · 09-25-2002, 08:13 PM

Mark,

My motor was out of the car and on an engine stand. Nonetheless, I still think the "custom" ball-end key is a good tool to use. The ball end lets you pivot the key away from the intake runners where a straight key would rub and make tightening/loosening difficult. I figured a universal joint and a hex bit socket would might work, but I somewhat recall that not working for me either.

I think the suggestions of the other guys regarding the lowering, but not removing, the engine is the way to go. Tight confines above the motor in place would get quite aggravating and probably not make life easy on your back and neck. Dropping the motor down a bit will be wisest and I think you'll be glad you did. I think the things you need to disconnect besides the motor mount bolts............the coil wire, the fuel lines at the rear front left of the motor, ground wire on the intake and harness that goes into the fuse block back there. Just look around for stuff that comes off the motor and goes off into the perimeter of the engine bay. Not sure if the A/C lines on the compressor or condensor will limit the amount you can lower the motor. My A/C is removed.

Hope that helps some?

APKhaos · 09-26-2002, 04:24 AM

Mark,
To Kevin's AC point: Simply remove the bolts attaching the AC compessor, lift it up and lay it on a suitable pad on the fender.
In this config, the AC circuit is completely isolated from the engine. Its far easier than wrestling with AC hoses as the engine drops.

expat · 09-26-2002, 04:06 PM

Thanks guys.

Ok Ok...I'll do the partial drop thing this weekend. Just got to find someone with a suitable jack to raise the engine.

I've got the butt of the car in the air at the moment (on stands) so having to bend over while pulling the intakes off won't be bad.

Just got to find a suitable jack (maybe its time to buy one

and stop being so stingy).

Thanks for all the help.

Mark

APKhaos · 09-26-2002, 06:29 PM

Mark,
Good move. Now, before you jump in, remember that you will have some 600lbs of metal balanced on your jack, then your jack stands. You do not want this mass wobbling around or seeking ground in a hurry. Get/find/make a sturdy wooden platform to support the engine and trans. There are plenty of good pics in recent threads, most of which show platforms which have castors to mve the lump around. You needs are simpler - just the wooden bit to keep everything nicely supported and wobble-free.

We want you to have fun doing this, and lifting the lump off your left toe does not really make for a jolly day.

Doug Zielke · 09-26-2002, 07:15 PM

Mark,
I remember when we helped Superman pull his motor, there was a lot of oil in the vicinity of the internal oil t-stat, and that pressure sensor next to it. The breather cover is also right there....all in all, a pretty messy corner. Re-seal all those things and you should be alright.