Did you use a thread locker?

I used blue locktite on the ones that backed out on the cam tower.
If a stud has proper torque applied and is not something that comes apart often I don't apply any.

Agreed you can reuse the studs M8 studs as they're not highly stressed. There's so many of them around the case perimeter that they have a lot of holding power. They pretty much never break. Just because it backed it out doesn't mean there is something necessarily wrong.

Be sure to check the back side of the chain housings. There is an epoxy that is applied on the back to seal the chain idler arm post and also the chain ramp posts. When you have the housings cleaned in solvent, that epoxy can come loose. Test the epoxy with a scraper to see if it is easily removed. If so, put some new epoxy on there. Favorite choices on the forums are JB Weld, Loctite Hysol 9340 or Devcon Liquid Metal.

Also don't apply too much epoxy. Only a thin layer is needed. If applied too thick it can interfere with the cam housing and make your chain housing gasket leak and also the more critical camshaft thrust plate gasket.

Thanks for the advice Kevin - I'll do just that. I happen to have JB Weld on hand. I'll make sure to use it sparingly.

It seems to be several studs are missing after getting the case back from the machine shop - not sure if they were there before but I'll find out soon enough

Received my harness and bitz kit from timmy2.. the harness is artwork.. he also helped beef up the bitz harness and now everything looks great and brand new!

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5tlts1xk.jpg

This is the current state of my home gym :)

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4wgoarn5.jpg

While waiting for the parts to arrive, I embarked on several mini projects. I removed the whaletail, started cleaning and prepping the engine tin and other parts for painting, and deleted the radio. I bought a 2 gauge pod for my wideband and voltmeter, but while looking at the radio delete plate I got an idea. Finished it today

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psoonyy2ob.jpg

Sorry for the bad pic, its night time..

Now I have all the stereo wires to sort through. I am pretty sure I'll be able to use the wiring from the stereo to hook up to the voltmeter. I have zero electric experience :)

Looks like you're on the right track taking pictures, putting stuff in bags and marking them and buying lots of new shiny parts!!

Great use of weight bench, stationary bike, tread mill basket ball hoop!!

Looking great!
There are a number of places on the engine case to apply a shmear of epoxy - including this one:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/603362-case-jb-weld-question.html#post5968282

:D

Knee injury put me out of commission so might as well make use of the space!

Thanks! I'm following Waynes book and its pretty detailed, I'm not too worried

New fuel lines from Len!

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgqklykmo.jpg

Len really knows his hose and fittings. Great resource for people to refresh their oil and fuel plumbing

All you guys are a great resource! between the invaluable help on this thread, and emails with Dennis (timmy2), Len and Craig, I am very happy.. the SC should turn out great if I manage to pull everything off..

Only rods outstanding with Rennsport with no ETA, otherwise I can start assembling soon.. weather just started turning around here (below 30c) which is great for working outdoors

Worked 6 hours straight today, no breaks.. removed all the AC/heater components in the boot and installed the fuel tunnel lines and new fuel pump. Didn't get a chance to install the rear fuel lines. Found out I don't have the grommets for the tunnel lines so ordered those today along with a new fuel tank.

Must say, Lens lines are wonderful, and the adapter he includes makes pulling the lines much easier. One tip though, I read in another thread to just push the grommets into the tunnel and get them later. Did that, but one of them ended up being in the way of me pulling the line.. had to spend a lot of time fishing it out and getting the line through.. but the job was very easy since the engine, transmission and fuel tank are all out

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psoldtrv00.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psry4gxwj6.jpg

Next step is to rebuild and pedal cluster.. I didn't like the way the wiring looked so I might try to clean that up as much as possible and then repaint the boot area

More fiddling around today
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4eidmhmj.jpg

Now that I've removed all the AC components, I have a lot of open vents in my trunk area - how do people usually go about closing these off?

I used aluminum flashing (thin sheet essentially) and glued it to the inside with weatherproof adhesive. No expensive tools, no new holes, and reversible. Doesn't look factory, but I don't look at the bottom of my smuggler's box often, nor do I feel around behind the front bumper.

That'll be a good option. I need to shave off some rusted parts around the battery - would covering the area with the same flashing and repainting the entire area yield reasonable results? I've never worked with flashing

Flashing is just thin aluminum sheet you buy at the hardware store. It cuts with tin snips or very stout scissors. Painting flat black would make it unobtrusive.

As far as around the battery, I'd be sure that all the rust was neutralized and all the metal protected first. Bad things happen in that neighborhood.

Some more car parts porn.. thanks to Craig (cgarr), a true professional and delightful guy to deal with. Did a super job on my heads and rockers and in the promised time frame! Also thanks to tom1394racing for the quick dispatch of a new-used head

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...pspcmestkg.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdsj2df5s.jpg

Hmmm - I am getting a tiny bit jealous now!
( & my wife wouldnt let me put engine parts on the lounge room table - ever ;) )