I'll tell you what I'm a gonna do.
I'm going to run around back, pull the car into the bay, clean up the area and take a couple digital pics of the leak for you guys.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/smile.gif

I know this could be a huge problem...but I am just too damn happy to have it back together and running right now!!!!!!!!!!!


Be back in a sec.

Sorry to hear about the leak Leland. Is there any possibility a few heat cycles might help it seal up??

------------------
Robert Stoll
83 SC
83 944

Heat cycle it! Stoll's on to it: some motors have a remarkable self healing ability- at least it's free and easy.
Next development will be self regenerating pistons and cylinders....or whale tails that shed and regrow in the face of potential danger http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/smile.gif

A man in Iowa with a broken tractor saved $10,000 . . .

Wow. Congratulations Leland! I think I'll go celebrate. This makes me feel good. You must be happy.

On the leak, maybe you can fix it somehow, though I don't know how. Maybe it will seat itself and quit dribbling. Maybe you'll have a choice between a leak and a teardown. But here's the deal: There's nothing easier than tearing down a motor that was just built. Well, okay there's easier things. But the cost is somewhat minimal and there are no difficult fasteners. Still, it would take some time.

I say drive it. I always say that. I'm saying it again. Enjoy, Leland. Nice job!

When you were considering this project, I told you that if you did it, air would smell sweeter and beer would taste better. Was I right?

------------------
'83 SC

You can get a seal conditioner from a hydraulic shop and inject some through the leak with a syringe this will swell the seal and make it tighter. I use a cup at every oil change just to keep my engine seals flexable, but, then again I like a clean garage floor.

Hope this helps
Tim in sac

I too would like to cast a vote for running the car for a while, to see what happens to the leak.

Part of my job is fixing leaky plumbing in apartment buildings. Countless times, I have seen minor leaks seal themselves with sediment present in the pipes. True, an oil leak is a different beast than a water leak. But I would give your bearing and seal time to "bed in" before going for another teardown.

For now, if it were me I would focus on the glorious sound of the new engine purring away, while keeping an eye on oil level and pressure.

Roger Shadel
78 911SC

Jim, you were damn right!


I am very proud of myself for this one.
Even though she leaks. http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/eek.gif I have doubts of it "healing itself" but who knows. I just hate the whole -sitting at a red light knowing the people are behind you saying "that car is leaking oil!"

Atleast it isn't a rotating seal...like a main seal...you can't just goober that up!

I tried to make a photo of the leak... but once again I can't upload it.
I'll post a link...

It shouldn't be too long before John Walker chimes in here. He might have an (easy) answer to your problem, Lee. Good luck!

------------------
'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
The Blue Bomber's Website
"If it ain't broke...we'll help you fix it 'til it is!"

See if this link works...or Jack the PC wizard can post it here. I know it's not that clear, but it is real hard to get a camera in there!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=951612&a=6970602&p=54212416&Sequence=0&res= high

I run a little bit of marvelous mystry oil through my 87 vw golfs CIS system to lubricate the pump, distributor, and injectors. I havent had any problems with it. Any ideas folks?

CIS systems are precisly machined and finiky.
They shouldn't be adjusted unless absolutely neccessary.
A tech told me for basic CO adjustment-to get running(not recomennded without a gas analyser)is to:
1. Jump the fuel pump relay and turn key on so its running all the time.
2. Pull all injectors out and put in tall glass jar.
3. Take off rubber "hood" from fuel distributor and check air plate-it should be centered and even with top of funnel. Slight springy resistance when pushed.
4. Lift plate with a magnet- should be no resistance(thatindicates problem with center control plunger) . Fuel should begin to spray immediately and evenly with a nice cone shape.
5. Reinstall injectors with new seals(prevent vacuum leaks). Lubrcate with white lithium grease first or WD40 (dont know?).
6. Check cold start valve-should spray for short time and stop

Just some ideas, gota go-AOL is kicking me off every five minutes

Huh?

Hey, it's running. That's awesome. I'm here to help:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...ds/OilLeak.jpg

------------------
Jack Olsen
My Rennlist page • My Pelican Gallery page • My Porsche Owners Gallery page

Leland, I'm soooo happy she's running!

Sorry to hear about the leak. But when I did my carrera tensioner upgrade, they leaked slightly for the first couple times I ran it( where the oil lines go into the covers) but then they quit. I'm praying this happens for you!

------------------
Matt Chamblin
78 911 SC

" A man in Iowa with a broken tractor saved $10,000 . . . "

Here's the stuff!

http://www.jbweld.co.uk/

Just think, if it works you'll be on Paul Harvey News .... a man with a Porsche 911SC saved big $$$ .... http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/wink.gif

Seriously, I don't mean to make light of the situation Leland. Good luck!

------------------
1971 911T - 2.5L Big Bore

Leland, I think you may have been too liberal in your application of silicone grease to the o-ring. That may have compromised the integrity of the case sealer. It's near impossible to know for sure though. If you go the external goo route, I'd suggest using Toyota-Black silicone sealant. That stuff is just amazing. Clean off the area with brake clean, let it dry, then goop it up.

But let's cross our fingers and hope it fixes itsself.

------------------
Tyson Schmidt
72 911 Cabriolet
92 C-2 Cabriolet

Congradulations Leland!

For the nose area case leak, the first step that you need to take is the re-tightning of the case-halve bolt/nuts about the nose area.

If you do decide to dis-assemble the engine, in order fix the oil leak, be aware that you may be able to dis-assemble the cam towers, cams, rocker assy, heads, and headers as complete units, since they have been already rebuilt and adjusted properly. I am able to do this on my earlier engines, and this saves a tremendous amount of time, I am not sure about your later model engine, someone else may be able to confirm this. Only difficult part is getting the forwad most exhaust head barrel nut off since the access port is smaller than the barrel nut itself, you can undo the nut but have to leave it in the cam housing.

Now your next project can be an engine test stand that will allow you to test the engine at the minimal assembly point to determine correct operation and no leaks, before going thru the entire engine reinstallation process to only find out something is wrong and that you have to perform a re-pull. Even this is no gaurantee, as I have a test stand that allows me set a rebuild to the rear of my engine compartment, and using a few extended cable harnesses and hoses perform a test run using the components located in the car. Problem is I get too excited and overconfident about wanting to get the engine back in the car and having the wheels rolling down the road, that I many times forgoe the test procedure, and end up paying for it after re-installation.

Well, good luck and enjoy.

Don

Lee,

I am proud of you, drip or no drip! Two drops a minute is not serious, and I think the heat cycling might just be the trick! Wait a week before deciding if more drastic action is needed!

------------------
Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa
1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler

"Two drips a second" is unfortunately what was written by Leland.
I hope it does improve on it's own, but none the less you should be proud of yourself for this rebuild- your mechanical skills must be way above average to accomplish this under the circumstances. Since motor doesn't have strange noise you must have done several things right!
I'm fairly new to this BB and very impressed with the DIY skills of members and helpfulness of pro's and experts here.

Well done on your rebuild!!
You might be able to stop the leak by removing the pulley, cleaning everything with brake cleaner and then MEK and then using some Dow-Corning 730 or similar sealer.
Let it set and then check for leaks.

Well, I have a hair brained idea.

First let me explain what is puzzling me about this leak.

I know there is a bit of oil at the bottom of the crankcase. And I know that when running, there is an incredible amount of turbulance inside the case.
I also know that it is the job of the crankcase breather to "relieve" or "equalize"? this pressure.

I know that oil gets thrown all over the inside of the case but on top of the pilot bearing is definatly NOT under the oil line.
So, I ask myself WHY is it leaking almost as if there is some amount of pressure that is, in effect, "pushing" a steady stream of oil through what otherwise would not be an area that oil could leak from. (not being "underwater" anyway)
Well, the 1 meter length of breather hose I got is a bit too long and it is actually "kinked" or flattened at one of its bends.

Here is my hair brained idea.

Is it in any way possible that because the crankcase breather is in effect, pinched, that there may be more positive pressure inside the case and possibly forcing the displaced oil next to the nose bearing seal through the slight gap?????


I told you all it was hair brained... so what do you all think?

[This message has been edited by Leland Pate (edited 09-17-2001).]