Leland, I am very proud of you, you are truly an inspiration to a lot of us to try more thing.

As for the leak, My 77 is leaking in the same area, around the pulley seal, On my engine there was already some GOOP there. I am going to re apply this when I take it out.

I am just looking for what material to use.

Thanks again Leland

Shawn

I'd say it is very possible, Leland. Remove that kink.

When pistons go back and forth, they do not in theory change the internal volume of the case. But they do displace air. back and forth, creating quite a stormy environment. Further, compression gasses get past the rings, helping to pressurize the case. Your rings and cylinders are new, but may not have completely seated yet. Your case needs to breathe. Otherwise you will blow seals and stuff.

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'83 SC

Lee,
Have been following your rebuild saga. Very interesting and so glad your baby is purrrrrrin'. Do check the PCV hose. I have heard many cases where oil leaks start because of the PCV not working properly.

Do watch your back where ever you may end up. We are pulling for you. http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/ar15.gif

George, My car dosen't have a pcv valve so to speak but I think it performs basically the same function. At lunch I'm going to go disconnect the hose and "un-kink" it and see if that helps. Slim chance...but who knows...


Is there a problem with disconnecting the breather hose from the oil tank fitting?

It will not run right if you just disconnect it from the fitting, I think.
It will be the same as if you took the oil cap off.
But, it should run enough for you to check.
Why don't you cut the hose down to the proper size so it is not kinked? Those hoses are not sold in the proper length, they are too long and are supposed to be trimmed to fit.

I feel your pain Leland. This happened to
me this spring after assembling my motor. I had a leak on the bottom near the flywheel end of the engine. I cleaned it really well (engine upside down on stand) and sealed it with some JB Weld (epoxy). It worked. I tore the engine down a few weeks later to fix another leak and the JB Weld came off without hurting anything. -Chris

Just thought I'd post an update, so far I have put 50 miles on the car. A couple of times when started, it has puffed a bit of white smoke...just a puff then it's gone.
It runs really strong even though there is still a bit of ignition timing to be done.

It is still leaking oil. I don't think it is going to stop on its own. But I will let it go for a while and see what happens.

I am very happy with everything except the muffler...it is just too damn passive. Very quiet...I want it to ROAR!

More to come.

slap on a dansk dual in dual out...scares small grannies in my neighborhood...


and there was a porsche update about kinks in the breather hose...Mine has a metal connector that connects 2 ends of the hose together right whee the kink is...I think the factory started doing that...not sure which yeah...mine is a 82

Good Luck!!!

MJ

Damn, Lee! That kind of sucks. Although, if I were you, I would drive the thing more and if it continues to leak, booger it up with some kind of sealant. I would put a flexible sealant on it, though.
Be sure you check the oil every morning, though! As I am sure you are doing.

I would wait for a week or so, then see if it is still leaking. Seal it if it is, and drive it for a while and consider if you really want to fix it properly. I know the feeling that you have. I have been there before.

I faced the same problem with my 914 engine before I rebuilt it..and it was running like new when I did take it out. I had a leak on the bottom of the engine. It would drip about twice a minute or more, depending on how hot the oil was.

If you lived near me, I would definitely be showing up to see the beast run!

On the topic of the exhaust...on our '74 we have the stock exhaust and I think it is plenty loud...although some of the internals of the muffler may be gone because it is as old as the car.
Oh, and sorry to say...the early 911 bug is biting at me now and I want one that is a 1973 or older...time will only tell if I get one. Although, I am contemplating getting a Mottorrad as well...too many toys that I want.

Paul

Well, the breather tube is now un-kinked and it is still leaking a bit.

Could running a thicker, heavier weight oil help things?

If it dosen't stop in a few weeks, I'm going to remove the alternator, crank pulley, clean it up really and goop it up with something.


[This message has been edited by Leland Pate (edited 09-17-2001).]

You might try using some of that fancy, hi-temp copper RTV stuff. At your local auto parts store. It's good for 700 degrees F.

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'83 SC

Its worth a try, but I can't see how any silicone sealant is going to stop a leak at a seam like that. Those soft kinds of sealant work when they are sandwiched between two solid objects, but I can't imagine how it would be able to get a grip on the seam, sufficient to hold the oil in.

If anything is going to work, I would think its going to be some kind of 2 part epoxy, on a very clean and maybe roughed up surface.

I've had the same problem, seeping oil at the nose bearing. My 73 had never been apart and I new the o-ring was toast so I tried to buy some time with a 2-part epoxy
(JB Weld). I cleaned the surface really well and it did not work. The oil seeped through the epoxy. I gave up and am rebuilding the engine now. I have heard of 2 people having success with an RTV, but even that seems like a long shot. Some local mechanics have been raving about a new product called "The Right Stuff", they've been using it in place of gaskets on water pumps, pulley covers etc. and say that it really works. That might be an idea but you still may end up splitting the case. Drive it for a while and see what happens.

Bruce Herrmann

i'm afraid there is no external goober that will ever stop the leak in that spot. lord knows i've had them and tried everything i could imagine. it's a teardown thing. although i was thinging about some silicone sealant i used when i restored an old wooden speedboat. it was black and used below the waterline and boat guys said you had to cut it with a saw if you ever wanted to get the boards off. tough as nails. possibly a sikaflex product. can't quite remember.

Leland,

Sorry about your luck. Me and some buddies own dirtbikes(KX, CR, YZ, etc). In the past, I have personally sealed a 2 stroke, high output crankcase with JB WELD until a better fix could be done. Sentiment says tear it down. I'd try JB WELD first. Good luck.

Rich

Leland; Go and find some 1422-b2 or 1422-b1/2 prc.It is a fuel tank and pressure type sealer that is used on aircraft.It is highly resistant to fuel and oil and remains flexible when cured.The main thing is that you put it on a clean dry surface and you are exact in your measuring and mixing of it.It is also important that it is cured properly before you try to start your engine.If you have any friends in avaition they will know what it is and should be able to dig you up some.I would try brushing it on with a small "acid "type brush.Just make sure that you wear a respirator and latex gloves etc etc.

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Grant 75 911s targa

Grant, if that is the stuff I am thinking about, it is really nasty! It is kind of red?

Paul

No, 1422 is a dark chocolate brown,I think you are thinking of 1431 type G which I think was a reddish pink color.Also some people coated it with 1005 to be extra sure of no leaks in fuel tanks.1431 is banned in Canada now because of the health issues.

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Grant 75 911s targa

My father and I just partially resealed the fuel tanks in his Mooney, and I remember that he used two different kind of epoxies. They were the brown and pinkish red...so I would assume they were 1422 and 1431. I just remember that you pretty much had to wait for the skin to fall off before that stuff would come off.

Well, I might just have something that could work.

My roommate works on Aero-planes so I consulted him. He said that they use this stuff at work (can't remember the name...H-PAM or something) that they use all over the place to stop pressure leaks.
It gets very hard (more like very hard rubber) and adheres to all types of metal very well, and is good at stopping pressure leaks in struts and hydraulic components.
And it shouldn't vibrate loose either.
my plan is to remove the fan housing, support the motor, remove the rear engine mounts and muffler, lower the motor slightly so there is more room to work with undernieth...and see what I got. If it is actually coming from the case halves above the pilot bearing (which I now suspect) I might be able to pack loctite 574 in the case seam, wipe it clean, and then cover the area with this stuff my roommate has. Loctite is supposed to harden in the absence of air so I figure it can't hurt.

Keep your fingers crossed peeps,