Lee,

A couple of questions ...

1. Is the leak coming out of the bore for the crank seal behind the pulley?

2. Did you use Loctite 574 on the outer periphery of that crank seal? The seal is #28 in the following diagram:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/1974-75/1-2.JPG

The reason I ask is that the type of seal changed from that illustrated in the factory service manual, from one with an outer metal shell that had to have sealant applied when installed ... to a type with an inherent elastomer external coating for the metal 'body' of the seal, and this later type should NOT have sealant applied to it.

BEFORE you try the Loctite/epoxy patch ... why don't you try replacing that crank seal, dry on the outside, after cleaning the case bore as well as possible? It is a standard metric seal, which should be available from any bearing supply store ... 30 mm x 50 mm x 10 mm.

The seal can be replaced with the engine in the car, supported, while you have the crossmember, mount and crank removed!
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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa
1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 09-18-2001).]

Thanks Warren, but it is definately not the crank seal (#28). Just refresh me here ok guys...the rubber hose that comes from the injection boot goes to the top fitting on the filler neck and the actual crankcase breather hose goes to the lower fitting behind the oil filter.

I haven't been able to find a picture of where the two hoses connect although I'm fairly sure I have them right.

Leland; he is probably talking about "Hysol" which is a very high quality line of aviation epoxys and sealers.Just make sure the stuff you get is resistant to fuels and solvents,as they make tons of different types for different applications.Again I can't stress the importance of the safely gear when using this stuff.

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Grant 75 911s targa

Also just a suggestion but a hyperdemic needle works really good for injecting epoxy and sealer into tight places.Try to find A fine tip one without the sharp needle and then you can cut the plastic end bigger if the sealer won't flow thru it.

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Grant 75 911s targa

I have had amazing results with construction adhesive by the brand name "PL Premium". I have glued 2 litre soda bottles together to create a 4 litre soda bottle. I have pressure tested it to 100psi. I was making water bottle rockets. The bottles still maintained pressure even after falling from 100 foot altitudes in sub zero temperatures.

This stuff sticks to metal, plastic, and all kinds of other things. It remains flexible and does not crack. It is not made for high temp though.



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Tony
'78 911SC

Hello

The key is to use a elastic sealer who can withstand the full pressure ( up to 8 bar ) and the floating under heat expansion.

I think Dirko HT or Sika 213 (?) are good trys also Loctite has a Teroson sealer widly used in the industry and sold by Würth too.
A trick is the lose the rear engine nuts and inject into the gap and retight it after its drytime.

Grüsse

So Lee, what's the scoop, have you found the miracle goop? (To stop the leak, that is.)

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'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
The Blue Bomber's Website
"If it ain't broke...we'll help you fix it 'til it is!"

Well, honestly I am kind of on hold until we get the word on mobility. I'm sure most of you have seen on CNN that the Navy and USAF are deploying all sorts of material to the "region" in question. We know we are going...just not where or when. So, I am not wanting to get myself into another bind until I know whats going on.
This stuff my roommate has called "pig putty" is supposed to be pretty good at this sort of things. Oil/fuel resistant...mildly flexable, stands up to high pressure and temps. I'll be sure to let you guys know. http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/smile.gif
Lee

"Pig-Putty"?
Sounds like a product H-D should sell for owners of old Ironhead Sportsters!!

(Good luck in your duties, Lee.)

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'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
The Blue Bomber's Website
"If it ain't broke...we'll help you fix it 'til it is!"

Yeah Doug, Used to rest my '66 sportster's kickstand in a pie pan with Harley Wings on it. A pan with a purpose.

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Robert Stoll
83 SC
83 944

Heh, heh, heh....I think it was my '66 XLCH that started America on the road to oil depletion!

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'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
The Blue Bomber's Website
"If it ain't broke...we'll help you fix it 'til it is!"

Boy this is still in the back of my head.

I'm going to tackle this leak when I get home and remove the engine for the transmission rebuild.
Man, I sure hope I can get it to stop. I have a feeling that the kink in the breather hose might have made a weak spot, leak, and that now that the damage is done, it just isn't going to quit.
I'm going to try and use the stuff my room mate swears by. Hey, if it stops leaks on hydraulic systems on $30M dollar aircraft...you'd think that it could stop my little leak. ...I hope...

Failing that... it's re-rebuild time. I can't enter the car in any type of autox/Hill climb with that leak. And if I can't get it to stop, I will probably have to forfit the Bogus basin Hill Climb...again :mad:

Lets talk worst case.
JW, Warren, Roland, what are your thoughts...?
Pull the engine, put it back on a stand, pull the heads/cam tower as a unit off of the left side... P/Cs, unbolt the case, look everything over real well... check for burrs or gouges that may have led to the failure...
...what else? I know there was a thicker pilot bearing O-ring that was used after like '77 or so... I wonder if there was any chance my rebuild kit mistakenly had the earlier o-ring.... unlikely...but possible.
What type of case sealer do you guys suggest. JW, didn't you say that you've had trouble with Loctite 574 in the past? I seem to remember BA suggesting the use of a Dow Corning sealant.
Roland??? Do you have any ideas?
I still shudder at the thought...but if the external sealant doesn't work than I'll have no other alternative. :(

Also, I believe I installed the flywheel seal incorrectly and that is why I have a small leak there as well. When I put the crank in the case half, i laid it in there with the flwheel seal on the crank.
I had it pushed all the way up against the case...not flush with the case.
After reading more about flywheel installation, it appears that you need to seat the seal *flush* with the case... oops...

Ideas?

Bump

How did this story end? I may be in a similar situation.

I think I have a slow leak from the top of the pully bearing/case joint and have heard that JB weld may work on my porous Mag. case.

Leland, did you ever solve this problem? I am going through the same thing. How about JW? Any suggestions?

Thanks, David

David,

Leland used some trick stuff only he can tell you. He explained it to me the other night but my lame memory won’t do justice. It probably will be a few days before he gets online from Virginia.

Speaking of justice, we need to get you guys for a face-to-face. You will have fun.

Best,
Grady

Thank you very much Grady! I'll PM him....David