Sport Motor Mounts - Three Brands...Which One to Buy?

[gregwils]

There are three brands of sport motor mounts . Rein @ $20, "German"@ $27, Hamburg Technic @ $24. I want to get the best quality, but highest price doesn't always translate to best quality and they are all close in price. Anyone have any thoughts?

[JAR0023]

I just installed four of the $27 German ones. My research here showed a lot of folks saying to stick with Porsche mounts for longevity. I would have loved to go with a set from Wevo or Rebel Racing but it just wasn't in my budget right now.

Back to the mounts. Installed without issue. Night and day difference from the 26YO original mounts. Mine were bad. Lifting by engine would show an inch of movement in the rear. Hard on and off the throttle and and you could feel the trans mounts moving. Everything is nice and solid now. No offensive vibrations or noise. Long term, we'll see.

-J

[kshafer1]

Just installed the "German" ones yesterday. They had the highest "pelican quality rating" (click the more info link for this rating) so I took their word for it. The price difference was not big enough for me to worry about it. I will say that the difference was noticeable when driving and I still need to do the two transmission mounts.

[DRACO A5OG]

+1 on the German ones do all four while you are at it, just make sure the trans mount bolts go in straight. Take your time and be safe

[JAR0023]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

+1 on the German ones do all four while you are at it, just make sure the trans mount bolts go in straight. Take your time and be safe

True. One at a time. Be careful you don't break the engine carrier. I supported the engine with a floor jack for the rear mounts. For the trans mounts, once I had the car on jack stands I used a small bottle jack to support the nose of the trans. This was one of the easier jobs I've done. -J

[mhunter]

I just bought two of the $27 mounts last week for my 71 911. I noticed that it has nuts at the bottom of the bolt. They are on super tight and there is very small room to even get a wrench in there. Any suggestions? I used some pb spray too.

Mh

[DRACO A5OG]

Strange, can you post a pic?

[DRACO A5OG]

If you are talking about the side bolts, raise the car and place jack stands at the T bar covers then lower the engine about 2 inches but not too much, just enough so after removing the center bolt, you should have enough room to get to those nuts with a wrench.

You do not want to lower the engine too much while the coupler is connected, it will damage your gear box shift rod.

[gregwils]

Ok, thanks for the feedback. Obviously, this is an instance where there is a direct correlation between price and quality. I intend to get four of the german ones.

[Grady Clay]

I’m not a proponent of having all four mounts being ‘stiff’ (or more rigid).
A 911 engine and transmission assembly is not designed to be a structural component of the chassis, it is designed to ‘float’ on the mounts.
With very rigid mounts, any ‘twist’ in the chassis structure is transferred to a ‘twist’ in the engine & transmission castings.
In turn, this can possibly misalign the machining (shaft bores) in the castings but will certainly stress the castings.

You can get the benefits of more precise location of the engine & transmission by using more rigid mounts at the transmission only while using good (new) Factory mounts at the engine.

A better design is a 3-point mounting system (like 914-6).
Just like a 3-leg stool, this design precludes ‘twist’ loading of the engine & transmission.
With a 3-point mounting system, you can even use (no-play) spherical bearings to locate the engine & transmission.

Best,
Grady

[McLaren-TAG]

I did just what you describe Grady. I used the hard inserts (replacement only) option on the transmission, and went with the softer black insert Wevos for the engine... eye candy there was hard to resist.

[scotricker]

The pictures on the parts descriptions on the website all look the same. Are the parts all the same dimensions, but with different stiffness? Or are the trans mounts different from the engine mounts? I should order me some, too.

[JAR0023]

Originally Posted by scotricker

The pictures on the parts descriptions on the website all look the same. Are the parts all the same dimensions, but with different stiffness? Or are the trans mounts different from the engine mounts? I should order me some, too.

915 trans uses the same mount as the engine. G50 uses different trans mount. To answer your question cabriolet and sport mounts are stiffer than standard coupe mounts.

J

[DRACO A5OG]

Dr Grady, is this why the Cabriolet has the extra engine strut along with all four Carbiolet Mounts (Sport Mounts) in pre-87's? Just curious.

[timmy2]

I picked up the $20 ones (Hamburg Technic) for my Targa last year. Work great so far. Time will tell if they will last.

[RichardNew]

You can get the benefits of more precise location of the engine & transmission by using more rigid mounts at the transmission only while using good (new) Factory mounts at the engine.

That's what I did. The two solid ones at the transmission and the Porsche Sport ones in the back. It works just fine.



Richard Newton
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[DRACO A5OG]

I may be wrong but I think Dr Grady is saying to use Sport/Cab mounts at the trans and OEM soft mounts at the engine.

[tazzieman]

As per Grady , this 72 works RSR campaigning at the weekend's race meet doesn't weld the 330hp engine to the chassis. And the guy drove 300km home afterwards

[weseeeee]

I just ordered 4 of the Sport Mounts. Looking at the records from the PO it appears that my mounts are almost 33 years old, 15 of those years I've owned it. Hope they smooth out the shifts a little.

[78SCRSMAN]

I'm always entertained by the amount of pure bull$hit some people come up with when they really have no friggin clue what they are talking about and more importantly nothing to support their claim. Even more entertaining is watching the rest of the lambs follow the leader!

Go with the German ones, they're nice!

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