Agreed - look at the absolutely horrible results that my technologically obsolete a/c components provide! And obviously, my serpentine fender condenser has its limited effectiveness cooked out of it by the exhaust! Shame on those who designed, sell, install, buy and use these garbage products! I guess I should just throw all of my system upgrades away and start over!


This photo was taken on a 98 degree day, car idling in my garage (1K RPM idle speed), high side pressure of 210psi and lowside of 30psi, max fan and thermostat settings, no evaporator freezing even after extended operation.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428340493.jpg


This was taken on an 86 degree day - car idling in garage immediately following being used for errands (combined highway and city driving, moderate traffic, and at least two times parked in store parking lots - aka: heat soak).


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428340520.jpg

I am sensing an endless looping stream of the same message from OP.

The point has been made but remains unverified.

Is there any sense/value in this thread continuing?

Perhaps for the comedic value?!?!

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Ronnie, can you describe your system and components?
Thanks!

What a load of BS!!!

Zippy, I typed a fast-n-dirty description of my system in post #61 of this thread, but can write it up in more detail if you like - let me know.


What's "BS" about it? Are you suggesting that I am falsifying information for the sake of one-upping you? If so, I assure you that is not the case (even though I did one-up you - again). I live in an extremely hot and humid climate, but am a polar bear at heart, and I primarily work outdoors in the heat . . . in other words, a/c is extremely important to me (both home and auto a/c), and would not lie about results for sport, rather, I would post up asking for help if I was not getting the results I wanted.

Ronnie,

Maybe he's calling BS to your statement "no evaporator freeze up even after an extended period".

At the sub-freezing level of the guage you picture the Rh would have to be practically ZERO for that to happen.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but it seems to me you need a rewrite of the laws of physics to have that happen.

That's the base problem with using a CCOT charging procedure with a TXV system, the TXV doesn't have enough range to compensate for such a low refrigerant charge so you must rely on clutch cycling(***) to prevent evaporator freeze up.

*** Cycle the compressor clutch off a few degrees above freezing and back on a few degrees above that. Remember that the liquid refrigerant stored in the R/D will result in "coast" period of cooling even after the clutch is cycled off.

I NEVER wish to see myself siding with KeloGes on any matter, but...

Will, I can't explain why I don't have problems with evaporator freezup, but I don't, and if I did, I would post asking for assistance.

I have "tested" my current setup in many varying driving conditions, including 70+ mile highway drives after dark in the summer when the temps are still in the mid to upper 90s and the humidity is very high, and have not experienced evaporator freezing. Of course, when the sun is down, and with a system capable of churning out such cold air, I do not need to run the thermostat on max even to meet my "unique" comfort needs, so perhaps if I did, the evaporator would eventually ice? But that is not what I call a "real world" operational situation for me - not a concern of mine, in other words.

Thanks! I PMed you.

Ron, Ron, Ron....you just don't want to listen to me anyone. I told you many times that you could increase your luke warm AC temps with one simple step. I will repeat it for you again. Reverse your front and rear windows and you will ALWAYS have cold air blowing in. But,NO! you never listen to me so.....I am not going to tell you my secret weapon again. I have had it with you and that goes for your weenie buddy Bob, or Bud or whatever his name is. I would post pictures of my ingenious method but, unfortunately I sold my car.

Hi Ronnie,
Could it be that your humidity is too low to create ice and freeze the evap? I don't know your climate. Also, high evap blower speed will help prevent freeze up.
Dave

Say my name.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428367231.jpg

YOUR TEMPERATURES AND PRESSURES and YOUR TESTS YOU CLAIM ON YOUR 911 ARE A BS LIE!

AND/OR

You have a special deal with GOD only you have ON THIS WORLD

roflmao

Looks like Ronnie is getting pretty darn cold temps at the vent seeing as how the thermometer has frost on it!









Disclaimer: I don't have A/C on my 911 as it was ordered without it.

Ronnie, you are just a stinky old can of corn from 1986 that fell behind the rack at the grocery store.


BTW?

If you are roflmao how can you type?

Zippy - got it and will get back to you.

Gary - you Sir, are neither a scholar nor a gentleman and are deserving of about twenty http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/fi...y-emoticon.gif !!!

Dave - extremely humid in North Texas year round (though not what Karl faces in Miami FL) - I usually have my fan speed on high, so maybe that helps explain things. I like the air movement then, and the noise doesn't bother me because I can't hear it over the engine/exhaust or the blaring Slipknot. :D

Reid - I would expect nothing less from someone who does not have the results to back up his chest beating - good job representing your "types".

Bob - yo' mama!

Wayne - that's not frost, but dandruff from Bob when he used the thermometer to take is own errrrr, ummmmm "temperatur" . . . I soaked my hands in peroxide immediately following that pic!

Reversing the gases
 

Dave I posted 911 Diagrams for you to help you visualize what Porsche did wrong
and is still being done wrong by others

This should help you figure out REVERSING THE GASES and understand better

You deserve a box of Girl Scout Thin Mints for your contribution. I am serious, bro. An entire box.

Now can somebody shut this pathetic thread down.

I swear to God, I will make it my life's work to oust you. You are an embarrassment to the thinking man.

Edit: You got nothing. You are the liar.

Normally a high A/C blower speed would prevent the evaporator core from declining to sub-freezing levels, especially in our cars. Additionally, the blower flow direction is in opposition to the gravity flow of the condensate down and out the drain. Even worse, the system is always in recirculate, so any moisture contributed via human metabolism just grows and grows.

The only way I can see for preventing condensate accumulation in the cabin is to provide fresh inlet airflow, blower forced or forward speed, HOT/HUMID fresh inlet airflow.

Ronnie did install a monstro evap blower last year. Took him a couple of weeks to craft. Not sure if the pics were before or after this addition.

Sorry, but I don't think blower speed matters all that much since the airflow remains sub-freezing, likely meaning the evaporator itself is even lower in temperature. The good effect of high speed airflow is that will tend to wick/wash any condensate not yet frozen into the cabin. But since we have no substantive way for the moisture laden airflow to exit the cabin.....

It's definitely a puzzle...

Speaking of which haven't I seen KeloGes making the same claim, system so good it produces sub-freezing vent temps? Plus haven't I seem KeloGes espousing the same refrigerant charging technique as Charlie?

Charge ONLY to the level that gets a the best sub-freezing vent temp?

An explanation, maybe....

Due to the hysteresis span of the thermostatic switch plus the level of liquid refrigerant remaining(system cooling "coast" time) in the R/D at clutch off time the low IR you got might be perfectly normal.

The time constant of the compressor on/off periods is fairly long, you might well measure a sub-freezing temperature, especially during the initial clutch off time ("coast" time) as long as the switch hysteresis causes the clutch circuit to remain off/open for and equal or slightly greater time with the evaporator above the freezing level.

Result, the AVERAGE evaporator core temperature over the complete system cycle time is slightly ABOVE freezing.

Hold the PR trigger on for an entire system cycle period, or even several, and then check the min/max readouts...SmileWavy

I am on the ragged edge of comprehension here so bear with. Not from beer but from just the dynamics of all that occurs in the system.

If the car has X units of moisture inside and eventually all freezes inside the evaporator, what is the amount that freezes it to the point of non-operation?

I have never lied here about anything

so ok you think I have got nothing

then go away

back to your beer and someplace else

Will, I'm sure you are onto something about the core temp typically staying at a temperature slightly above freezing. I've never tried to determine that because the system has performed so well (nothing to trouble shoot, etc).

It would be interesting to see how much moisture is wicked into the cabin - no indication of visible moisture on the vents and such and the air inside the cabin feels crisp and fresh - the opposite of humid, in other words.

My understanding of the process involves the coldest area of the evaporator, likely most near the inlet from the TXV, freezing the condensate first/initially, and then the process proceeds more and more rapidly as the open area of airflow declines accordingly.

The only recent example, recent being circa 1993-4, was in our 1992 Lexus LS400.

Each instance involved driving up rising terrain, McDonald pass in Mt, I5 in northern Ca. In each the instance the evaporator airflow was practically non-existent by the time we realized the cabin was becoming uncomfortably warm.

It only took a few minutes with the compressor off to return the system to normal operation.

http://cdn.breitbart.com/mediaserver...protest-ap.png

Those cookies have become such a rip-off, both levels, the girl scouts and me, that I never buy them. For the past 10 years or more I give the girl $10 and tell her to give a box to the next person that says no.

^^^

But, would you buy if she came a knockin' at yer door?!?!

http://cdn.gunaxin.com/wp-content/up...irls_scout.jpg

The perv in me says Yes! :D

Only if my wife wasn't nearby....

You called BS on Ronnie's sub freezing numbers and by default, every thing he said in that post. Yet you asked zero questions about the scenario.

From my perspective that is a shooting from the hip, for spite, lie.

Then I am degraded for my squillion post count and talking of or drinking beer.

It ain't the AC talk that frosts me.

I did ask her why and she said because she had no legs after riding in your car with the AC on after you drove her the long way home from the playground.

I stand by BS and Lie to Ronnie's so called temperatures and pressures and valid test post!

Go read "scientific laws of Thermodynamics" Laws of thermodynamics - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laws_of_thermodynamics
Wikipedia
The four laws of thermodynamics define fundamental physical quantities ..... to Entropy: Statistical Thermodynamics Based on Information, World Scientific, New .

treaties on planet earth aplied to automotive A/C System

I am done with you go sit in the corner some place else

Reversing The Gases Works Far better than Porsche's Engineers OEM Design
 

Back To The Topic of this Tread

Reversing The Gases Works Far better than Porsche's Engineers OEM Design

THIS IS NOT BS

My discovery works great, and I give it for free

TRY IT YOU WILL LIKE IT!!!

Believe it or don't

It would be easier to believe if you could at least remember a ratio of OEM vs Reversed.

Otherwise we must trust your memory since you agreed that you kept no records.

Pictures came from the actual "reverse" trial?
Low side -5 PSI high side 140 PSI...

I'm in the dark completely on this one, please explain..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428443176.jpg

Guages in focus for clarity.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428443211.jpg

Low side minus 5 PSI = ~22 degrees below zero, yet your reading was only just barely sub-freezing...??

How so, blockage to flow between the evaporator outlet and the compressor inlet?

Oh, sub-freezing vent temperatures are still BS..??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428443786.jpg

I'm calling BS that you, Reid, have actually done any work on mobile a/c systems or have any real-world knowledge of the subject; your posts say otherwise, and at this point, I'm convinced that your entire body of work here, since 2011, has been a hoax.


I always keep the magnetic, Free Candy sign within arm's reach, dontcha' know!!!

Reid, you've posted this so many times now (without supporting evidence, however), that even if there is any merit to your idea, all anyone is hearing (seeing) at this point is =

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