Torn outer CV boot = new axle ass'y?

[r-mm]

Went down under to do some exhaust painting on the Carrera and saw this guy staring at me. No noise from it yet. Is the standard practice to replace the entire assembly?

[Jack Stands]

Replace the CV joint boot after cleaning and re packing the CVs. If they're good, should be no need to replace the axle.

However, sometimes it's worthwhile to replace the entire half shaft assembly if you factor in a technician's labor charges to clean, check, repack, etc..

[Justin@Athens]

Generally yes. At the very least the joints should be repacked, but sometimes it is almost as economical to replace the half shafts. It may not have been this way for long, the the grease traps the contaminants. It is not something you must immediately address. The car will go many miles before you get any audible noise most likely. You'll probably want do both sides at the same time. Don't be tempted to use the cheap CV boots either, they don't last.

[r-mm]

Technician = me so if I can avoid replacing the whole axle I'm happy to just do the boot.

I see a few options on PP: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=POR&Context_make=&please_wait=N&LastVisited_input=0814&Previous_Section=SUSAXL&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=+000-043-301-08-M84&I1.x=0&I1.y=0

[Noah930]

From a cost perspective, it's certainly cheaper just to replace the boot than the entire axle assembly. But from a labor perspective, it's almost easier to replace the axle. Either way you're removing the existing axle from the car (to RR it on a bench). From a labor perspective, it's less hassle to replace the whole thing. But I'm cheap, so if the CV joint is fine, I'd probably just do the boot and not the whole axle.

[steve911T]

I replaced the boot and all has been well. Getting the nut off is a bear, 350 lbs of torque on it. Good luck. Steve

[OsoMoore]

I've replaced boots and joints on my car. It is a pain, but after figuring out how it works, it mainly is just messy. Get some cheap disposable nitrile gloves from the drug store and you will figure it out after some swearing and time on the floor.

I took out the half-axle, took apart the joint, and carefully examined it for bad wear. If their is gouging, then replace the joint. Otherwise just clean, re-grease, and carefully reassemble. There are some good threads on it you will find. Be sure to use the right grease.

After getting it back together, re-torque the bolts at 200 miles. The assembly will compress a little during use and they will become a little loose. I did a 3rd check a couple weeks later (although I don't think I found anything).

EDIT: As someone pointed out below, an 87 varies from an SC in that the joint is not removable from the axle on one side. Sorry about that!

[Charles Freeborn]

It depends on how long the boot has been torn and if there has been enough contamination.
The only way to find out is to dis-assemble, wash them out and inspect. If the bearing surfaces are pitted or galled they're done. I used to have photos of ruined ones, but they've gotten away...
It's a filthy job, which is why many people choose to chuck the whole mess and swap out for new axles.
-C

[uwanna]

Best to remove the axle and examine the outside CV joint carefully. If the outside CV is worn, it's time for a new axle assy as that CV joint is "friction welded" to the axle and not replaceable, all '85 1/2 on axles are built that way. And yes, removing the 350 ft/lbs axle nut is a booger!
When reinstalling the larger axles with 108mm flanges you have, there is much less worry about attaching bolts coming loose as they are 10mm vs 8mm bolts and torque to 60 ft/lbs vs the 30ft/lbs for 8mm.
If the outside CV joint is AOK, by all means, just lube things up and install new boots!

I had an axle with the same ripped boot as yours. I examined, cleaned and put on new boots. I used the boot kit you linked to in your previous post. Went very smoothly but is a filty job. Use rubber gloves, not the thin nitrile type,
as they are prone to rip!

[r-mm]

Thanks for the advice all.

I went with a new lobro axle. I remembered seeing a newish axle on the driver's side so I figure its money well spent for peace of mind - have a 1000mi road trip later this month.

I have the existing axle unbolted and nearly free but it seems to be hanging on the shock - do I need to remove it to get the axle free? or just wiggle the hell out of it?

[r-mm]

What I'm looking at:

[Jesse16]

Its easy to remove the lower shock bolt if that helps. Use a jack to take some pressure off the bolt so it comes out easy. Its not holding anything.

[r-mm]

Thanks.

Any tips on getting the right torque on the axle nut when reinstalling? Does one typically use a torque wrench when the values are that high? Most 1/2in drive click type wrenches top out below 300ft-lbs

[Jesse16]

Some will say borrow the wrench or have someone else torque it. I say use simple math and a bar with cheater to get the length if needed. Use your weight at the correct distance, will be fine and 100% accurate!

[Charles Freeborn]

Going to need a 3/4" drive torque wrench. I do it with a helper standing hard on the brake pedal and e-brake on.
-C

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by r-mm

Thanks.

Any tips on getting the right torque on the axle nut when reinstalling? Does one typically use a torque wrench when the values are that high? Most 1/2in drive click type wrenches top out below 300ft-lbs

Find a shop that works on trucks or off road vehicles. They will have the BIG torque wrench. Tighten the nut as tight as you can at home, then drive to the shop and have it torqued. You could also check with a local auto parts store that loans tools, as most do these days. If they have a 300+ ft/lb torque wrench, use it with a cheater bar.