Brake bleeding fun - stripped nipple

[groovydude]

I'm having fun bleeding my brakes!

Before the operation they were a bit squishy, and the front pads and rotors needed replacing. As per the instructions from our host, I had to disconnect the calipers to replace the front rotors, so bleeding would be necessary anyway. Front brake work went well, and bleeding the front was as per described in the Pelican article.

The front nipple uses a reasonable size nut - 11mm. The rear valves use a ridiculously small nut - 7mm. And of course I stripped the first nut trying to get the valve open. I carefully tried the other side, but I'm sure it will strip too if I try to apply enough force to get it loose. The space for getting the tiny, weak 7mm open end wrenches in there to loosen the nuts is too small, of course. Thanks a lot, Porsche engineers (!) (who are probably in retirement homes (or worse) now).

Should I:

A) Leave it alone for now, since there may not be air in the rear system.
B) Take the rear calipers off and try and force the nipple out, probably damaging them for good (and replace with new parts).
C) Hope that someone here has some nifty/magic way of getting these things loose without taking the calipers off. (I've tried soaking with WD40 and PB Blaster).

I'm hoping for C.

Thanks.

[Justin@Athens]

Well, I've dealt with a similar situation on my old volvo 240. This is/was a job for a boxed end wrench or deep 7mm socket. You are probably going to need a nice set of vice grips and maybe a torch with mapp gas. (not expensive)

Heat, and then let cool several times, then attack with grips. Those buggers are cheap, I replace them at the slightest rounding.
In the mean time, let them soak in PB blaster.

[steely]

maybe a combo of B & C.

If you are able to get a socket on the nipple with the caliper mounted, maybe your path will be clear to get/use a bolt extractor.

[emac]

Don't know what year you have and that would held. My 81 has 9 mm in front and 7mm in rear. I have stripped one in the past and used a small needle nose vice grip to open it bled it out and ordered new bleeder valves for all wheels. I am bluffed with the 11mm on yout car
Ernie

[timmy2]

50/50 mix of Acetone and auto transmission fluid mix works better than anything in a can.
Mix up a little and keep applying it for a while.

[HarryD]

Heat, penetrating oil, box end wrenches are your friends. If it is truly rounded, then vice grips or pipe wrench to get it off.

Buy new nipples and replace them all.

BTW: I am baffled by hearing you have two different sizes of nipples. All four of mine are the same (7 mm). The next time I flush my brakes (I do it annually), I am thinking of replacing them, since they have been there for a while and they are showing signs of slight rounding.

[grant lyon]

For next time suggest you get and use flare nut wrenches. They look like 6 point boxed end wrenches, with a slot cut so the wrench circle is open and can slide past a brake-line (looks "C" shaped). Even now, if there are enough corners still left on the nut, a flare nut wrench and rocking gently to get the nipple loose may do the trick -- with PB blaster or your preference of nut loosening solvent. BTDT.

[emac]

Tim I seen this in the past --best thing I have ever used!
Ernie

[HarryD]

Also, I like the small nuts as you can only use a small (i.e. short) wrench to tighten them which in turn means you are more likely to NOT over-tighten them.

[mreid]

Box end wrench is the only tool for these (flare wrench is not for this application). It may still work without heat as the open end wrench may have only rounded part of the bleeder.

[vascott01]

Originally Posted by timmy2

50/50 mix of Acetone and auto transmission fluid mix works better than anything in a can.
Mix up a little and keep applying it for a while.

I concur to this...Soak for a long time, Use a propane torch to heat...repeat and repeat.. be careful using vice grips as you could crush it

good luck

[robdiver]

A small pipe wrench, 4" or so has gotten me out of a lot of similar problems. Heat will also do wonders.

[juanbenae]

needle nose vise grips as someone suggested above. if you will not be using a pressure type bleed system I would suggest the speed bleeders for ease of bleeding in the future. if you are using the pedal to pump the fluid remember to not bury the pedal full travel to bleed as this can play havoc with an older master cylinder. only do 1/2 to 2/3 pedal travel when bleeding.

the speed bleeder keep you from getting into a frustrating pissing match with your wife while you get her to work the pedal while you work the caliper end of things. push, push push hold! how could she screw that up you'll be asking as she goes away mad...

[groovydude]

Lol, fortunately I have a son on hand to do the pedal work!

Overnight soaking and vice grips did the trick. The box end worked on the other side, but it barely fit (maybe they made thinner walled wrenches in Germany in 1982). The car is an '82, btw. I've ordered replacement valves, at least they're only $3 each. I'll mix up a batch of acetone/t-fluid the next time I buy some transmission fluid. This isn't the first time I've run into a stuck nut or bolt on this car

Bleeding is done and the brakes are nice and tight! I put the old valves back on but I'll replace them later this week when the new ones arrive.

I'm not complaining, because I think this board is amazing, but I do wish Wayne would update his book, or at least make the online articles more up to date with all the information that's here in the forum. Sometimes I just can't find what I'm looking for with a search, or if it's there I have to pour through pages and pages of non-related posts. Had I known, for example, that having a pair of $3 valves on hand before starting would have been a good idea it would have saved me time and grief.

Thanks!

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by groovydude

Lol, fortunately I have a son on hand to do the pedal work!

Overnight soaking and vice grips did the trick. The box end worked on the other side, but it barely fit (maybe they made thinner walled wrenches in Germany in 1982). The car is an '82, btw. I've ordered replacement valves, at least they're only $3 each. I'll mix up a batch of acetone/t-fluid the next time I buy some transmission fluid. This isn't the first time I've run into a stuck nut or bolt on this car

Bleeding is done and the brakes are nice and tight! I put the old valves back on but I'll replace them later this week when the new ones arrive.

I'm not complaining, because I think this board is amazing, but I do wish Wayne would update his book, or at least make the online articles more up to date with all the information that's here in the forum. Sometimes I just can't find what I'm looking for with a search, or if it's there I have to pour through pages and pages of non-related posts. Had I known, for example, that having a pair of $3 valves on hand before starting would have been a good idea it would have saved me time and grief.

Thanks!

Glad you got it done.

I would suggest that you do not change the nipples until the next time you bleed the brakes. After all, why take a chance in getting air into the brake system and have to bleed them all over again.

FWIW, I flush my brake fluid every year. I have had the car for 12 years and all my hydraulic components are same as when I got the car and none need replacement. I think the frequent changes helps to keep the parts in service.

[juanbenae]

im with harry on that... let eeemm go till next summer. do the $8 buck a corner speed bleeders. do a search, best reasonably priced brake upgrade I ever did. once you work the bleeder screw every few years it will likely never freeze stuck again. the speed bleeder come with a dry antiseize on the threads when new.

im not a speed-bleeder sales rep, but have had a relationship end after bleeding brakes, and it was her freakin kia I was makin fit.....