Question on Solder & Help Identifying a Resistor

[Tidybuoy]

As part of the install for my electromotive TecGT, the CAM Sync sensor calls for adding a 1k resistor between two wires at the connector.

My question:
Do I just solder this to the bare wires and then heat shrink or should I be bending the resistor into a "U" shape and crimping as part of the normal wire crimping to the terminals?

I have little experience with soldering and I can't take this into an expert as this is part of the wire harness and would have to take the whole car (can't do that yet).

Also, (I can be my own worst enemy, sometimes). I opened the resistor package that came with this kit a couple of years ago. Now that I need to install the resistor, I couldn't find it. After searching, I found this - but it was near a pack of resistors that came with my home alarm system so I want to confirm that this is the correct resistor: I need 1k 1/2 watt resistor, my engineer at work has confirmed that this is a 1k but stated he "thinks" it's 1/2 watt. I'm looking for a second opinion.

Bands:
1) Brown
2) Black
3) Red
4) None
5) Red

Any advice would be appreciated.

[Mick_D]

you can't tell by band code what the wattage rating is. the last red band is the tolerance.
You can tell the wattage by the diameter of the body. That does look like a 1/2 watt.

Resistor Color Codes : Color Codes - Electronics Textbook

[Tidybuoy]

A guy that I work with told me that this is 1k which he based on the bands and then did a calculation which had valued base on a chart that we looked up on google. As far as the 1/2 watt, he was guessing based on size. However, I just found a chart that stated sizes:
1/8 watt = .145
1/4 watt = .25
1/2 watt = .375
1 watt = .562

Since I only have a ruler and do not have caliper here at work, I have assumed 1/2 watt based on the fact that this appears to be .375 inch. definitely not over 1/2 inch and over a quarter inch..

I just wanted to be certain since I had temporarily misplaced the resistor and it got mixed with other resistors.

Thanks.

[Mick_D]

It's definitely a 1K resistor, and almost definitely a 1/2watt. 1/4 watts are the smaller shorter ones usually with brown bodies.

[Mick_D]

If you want to be certain, buy new. They're dirt cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/E-Projects-100EP5121K00-Ohm-Resistors-Pack/dp/B0185FIJ9A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1471295868&sr=8-4&keywords=1K+resistor

[rwest]

Should be able to check the resistance with a multimeter, correct?

Indeed a 1k resistor. Using the resistor in your automotive application, the maximum voltage across the resistor will be approx. 12V. The maximum current through the resistor will be V/R ->12/1000 = 0.012 A (12mA) In that situation the resistor dissipates VxI -> 12x0.012 = 0.144 Watt, so much less than 1/4 Watt. In other words: you can safely use the resistor in a 12 V circuit.

Otto

[3rd_gear_Ted]

Adding the 1K resistor across the Cam sync sensor terminals will in turn create a distinct output signal waveform that the ECU wants to see to allow counting & calculating.
The resistor is working in conjunction with the internal sensor electronics to create the waveform needed for your specific ECU.

[Tidybuoy]

Originally Posted by rwest

Should be able to check the resistance with a multimeter, correct?

Yes, we measured it and it is indeed a 1K resistor. My next step was to determine if it is 1/2 watt and based on a chart that I found, this is indeed a 1/2 watt resistor so I believe I am ok.

[Mick_D]

If there's any doubt at all, you can buy 100 of them from Amazon for about 7 bucks.

[aston@ultrasw.c]

On the soldering part.

Form the resistor lead into a J.

Strip the insulation from the wire about 1"

Fold the exposed copper in half around the loop of the J.

Twist the wire nice and tight.

Solder the joint. Make sure the solder is nice and shiny and the surfaces have been wetted.

[T77911S]

i would bend the ends of the resistor in a U with the wire thru it bent in a U. solder then heat shrink it.

if you really want it done nice, sand or clean the ends of the resistor and tin the wire before connecting.
use 2 pieces if heat shrink, one on each end, then a bigger one over the resistor or entire part

[aston@ultrasw.c]

X2 on cleaning the parts

I also like to use a little extra flux

https://www.amazon.com/Kester-951-Soldering-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B004X4KOWS

[dicklague]

Soldering is the way to go, and not too difficult to do.

I am however surprised that the "crimp only" guys have not jumped in with their theories!!! and warnings, and anecdotes......and....

[aston@ultrasw.c]

Originally Posted by dicklague

Soldering is the way to go, and not too difficult to do.

I am however surprised that the "crimp only" guys have not jumped in with their theories!!! and warnings, and anecdotes......and....

;-)

I am in the crimp only camp as long as you have the correct wire, contact, tooling and process controls. BTW most DIY tooling does not make the grade.

If not, soldering is the next best thing.

[Mick_D]

crimping is a no-no when it comes to components.

[aston@ultrasw.c]

Originally Posted by Mick_D

crimping is a no-no when it comes to components.

yes, absolutely

i was distracted by the wire termination discussion of other threads

Never use additional flux or flux core solder for components in electronic equipment. It contains acid which damages and even destroys parts, copper wiring and pc boards.

For electronic components use a rosin core 60/40 (lead/tin) solder or a similar lead free equivalent if you like.

Cleaning the leads of components is not necessary - basically it should not be done - because they are pretinned, which eases soldering and also protects the unsoldered part from the leads against corrosion. Only when components where kept in a humid or otherwise agresssive environment for a longer period, cleaning of the leads might be necessary.

Otto

[Tidybuoy]

Just to clarify, below is the type of connector that this resistor must be added to. On one side of the connector (either male or female), there are three wires that must be added to the WeatherPack Connector. The resistor must be connected (i.e., bridge) between two of the wires.

My plan is to form the resistor into a "U" shape. The solder to the exposed wires, then put the wires into the connector and crimp.

From what I'm reading above, I should be soldering the resistor and not crimping? But after the solder point, I must crimp to the connectors.



Any additional tips & tricks would be greatly appreciated!

[aston@ultrasw.c]

I don't think there is an industry standard to control what you want to do.

So here's what I would do!

Form the resistor into a U

Put the resistor lead and the wire into the contact and crimp

It will require some judgement to select which contact size is best

Then I would lightly solder the crimped connection

Finally, slide the rubber seal into position and crimp the strain relief (gently)

There's lots wrong with this approach but on balance I think it will yield the best result.