I've searched for an answer but I'm still confused about fuel fitting adapters. I bought new lines from Len last year, great stuff by the way. What do I need to mate these to AN6 connectors? I don't want to cut the lines.
Thanks
Dave

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thanks and Yes PMO's

If the fitting is the same as the return line input to the tank the this what I used.

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/adapter-6an-male-m14x15-female-blk/adf-6j1415mf

The other (high pressure feed line)good luck I don’t think there’s a fitting available, you might have to build a new line or maybe Len makes a fitting

Thanks I emailed Len.

BTW, I'm starting to like putting the R3 in engine compartment more and more. There are so many wires and almost all of them go there.

I enlarged the O2 system hole to 2". I had to offset it a bit toward the drivers side too.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735758683.jpg

The Haltech R3 provides substantially more functions than I'll need but I don't need a fuse box so maybe it was worth the extra $1000 OUCH!! There's a ton of wires.
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The lump under the carpet will be a lot bigger now than with the old O2 wire bundle.
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Here the ECU laying on the metal plate I attached to the old O2 mounts. Time to take it off, drill the holes for the ECU and paint it. Reading through Showdown's excellent thread, that extra real estate may come in handy someday.
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1106768-when-well-enough-cant-left-alone-backdate-efi-itb-ac-more.html

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Don't want to steal any info that is proprietary to your business, as you obviously have spent time figuring out the knock sensor location, but if you feel so inclined to inform us of where *is* a good location for a knock sensor, it would be appreciated. I assume it has to be the case, if not the heads or cam box.

My application is a 3.3 Turbo, 3.4L displacement, dual plug heads, etc. I just want to be as safe as I can with it, and knock sensing is something I have always liked, but this is my first standalone install on an air-cooled engine, so I'm trying to research more ahead of time.

Thanks.

The Haltech wiring harness is quite long, and for most of its length, the wires are unprotected. Since the wiring will be exposed above the transmission, I decided to use heat shrink tape for protection, using approximately 3 to 4 feet of it. The two dangling cables are for the CAN bus and the wideband O2 sensor, which I will also need to extend and protect.

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I routed the wiring through the engine compartment on the passenger side. Are there any potential issues with this route? There's a lot happening on the driver's side, so I'd prefer to avoid it. I still need to shrink or trim back the last few inches of the heat shrink tube.

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I'm using the opening in the tunnel that the throttle rod previously passed through for the vacuum line to the ECU. I installed a new rubber boot on it. Additionally, I drilled a hole through the passenger side of the tunnel and added a grommet to route the vacuum line to the ECU.
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I'm making steady progress on my conversion. The engine and transmission are back in place, and the axles are securely torqued down. It's much less cramped now without the CIS system.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1738963755.jpg
The Haltech R3, which also functions as a PDU, offers several features I'm eager to utilize. For example, the fuel pump is directly connected to the R3. I routed the wire through a grommeted opening near the pedal box. Additionally, I can use the R3 to control the starter solenoid. I'm considering adding a momentary push button for this purpose, but I want it to be discreet, so I'm still deciding on the type and placement of the switch.

I'm also figuring out the remaining wiring. There's not much left to do back there—just a few low-current loads like oil pressure, oil temperature, and reverse lights. I'll probably use a new Deutsch connector for these.

Does anyone know what this yellow wire is for? It comes out of the original harness, goes into a male/female junction, and then back into the harness.
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Dealing with the old wiring I no longer need has been quite a challenge. The wire colors in the manual often don't match those in the harness. To ensure I kept the necessary ones, I traced many wires. I trimmed back the old wires, applied heat shrink to the ends, and bundled them with wrap and heat shrink. The remaining wires will be secured inside the engine compartment for two reasons: first, there's a chance I made a mistake and might still need one; second, I might repurpose one in the future.
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I've made some progress! The PMO ITBs, fuel lines, rails, vacuum hoses, DBW motor, and electric pedal are all installed. Now, I just need to wire the COPs, injectors, fuel pressure sensor, air temp sensor, tachometer, and a few other components.

For anyone attempting this, here's a tip: don't do what I did. I dropped the engine to make installing everything easier, which worked well. I placed the Nexus R3 under the passenger seat, and I'm happy with that location. I routed the wiring harness into the engine compartment while the engine was out of the car. Doing this with the engine in place would have been a nightmare, if not impossible, since the harness is over an inch in diameter and quite unwieldy.

After reinstalling the engine, I reconnected everything—clutch, axles, etc. That was a big mistake. I should have supported the engine on stands, figured out all the wire routing and lengths, then dropped the engine again to pull the harness and make all the terminations on my workbench. Doing these terminations in the car is backbreaking and time-consuming.

I'm struggling a bit with the terminations. I'm never quite sure how much slack to leave so I'm erring on the side of caution. I wish I'd bought connectors with boots for the wiring.
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I was looking for an affordable way to get cylinder head temperatures into my Haltech R3 ECU. Haltech offers a CAN bus method, but it's quite expensive for just one input. Instead, I found the Adafruit Analog K-Type Thermocouple Amplifier - AD8495 Breakout, which you can purchase on eBay, Amazon, and other retailers. For the 14mm spark plug thermocouple, I bought one from a Canadian company, Thermomart. https://www.thermomart.com/cylinder-head-temperature-gauge?search=14mm

I put together some wiring to test it out, and it worked! You need voltage, sensor ground, and input.
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I still need to do some calibration. With the engine off and cold, the intake air and CTS should show the same values - and I think I better charge my battery.

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It started!!!!! The DBW bumped the idle up to around 2200RPM and in a few seconds dropped it down to around 1200RPM. I only let it run for a minute or two. It was a lot more work to get here than I thought it would be. Now the real fun begins. First up, balancing the ITB's. I hope to get that done and a few more things this weekend.

Here's some screen shots. CTS is the cylinder head temperature measured at the #1 spark plug.

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I was anticipating some issues dialing in the vacuum levels on the ITBs, based on what I’ve read here. Surprisingly, it wasn’t a problem at all. Using the synchro tool, all but one were reading 4, with only cylinder 3 slightly off at 3.5. A small tweak to the bleed air screw was all it took to get things lined up. Honestly, I probably could have left it alone.
Eager to get the car on the road, I quickly cobbled together a bracket to hold the start/stop switch. It’s definitely temporary—I need to come up with something better. Even just painting it black would be an improvement.

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I finally took the car out for a 10-mile drive, and wow—what a difference. The throttle response, the sound, the feel—it’s night and day. I’m currently running a very conservative base map, so I know there’s still plenty of room for refinement.

Great write up Montauk.

Could you share more information on how you installed the DBW control on the PMOs?

Thanks

We are developing our own ITB set up in the works.
The idea was to create a system that had an old school feel.
The manifolds are the product of blending an old MFI housing with 4 bolt flange to allow us to attach Genvey throttle valves. The casting were produced in a friends garage using Volvo Mahle pistons as the source material.

46 mm butterflies reduced to 41mm ports
63mm air horns [velocity stacks]
We have a later version that incorporates PMO velocity stacks
ITG air filters
Plans are to run a Haltec management from Clewitt engineering.


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Good luck Henry. Looks like a nice product. Clewett's stuff is great. I'm using his crank and cam sensors. I bought the PMO parts from our host. I bought the Haltech R3 directly from Haltech.

You asked for it!!!

BMW Electronic Throttle Conversion for My Porsche 911
For my electronic throttle setup, I sourced the following components from eBay:
• Throttle Actuator: BMW 2001–2006 E46 M3 (Part #12727831529)
• Acceleration Pedal: BMW 2012–2018 F30/F31/F34 3-Series Gas Pedal (Part #6853175 OEM)
• Connector: VW/Audi/BMW Headlight Level Wiring Connector Pigtail Plug Socket (Part #2-967616-1)
Throttle & Pedal Sensors
For accurate throttle control, I installed a throttle position sensor (TPS) that mounts directly onto the throttle motor shaft. I opted for the OEM Eurosensor version from DigiKey:
• Sensor Part: 5555-EURO-XPD-2832-812-214-911-00-ND
• Manufacturer: VARIOHM / EURO-XPD-2832-812-214-911-00
The throttle position sensor and pedal position sensor each have two sensors, so each requires two sensor wires. For the Haltech ECU, this means running AVI wires:
• Throttle Sensors: AVI5 & AVI6
• Pedal Sensors: AVI8 & AVI9
• Power & Ground: 5V power and signal ground
The throttle motor itself needs two power wires, which connect to HBO wires on the Haltech ECU. In my case, these were HBO1 & HBO2.
Bracket Fabrication
The most time-consuming part of the entire project was fabricating the brackets for the throttle motor and pedal.
• Throttle Motor Bracket: I built this using 18-gauge steel, attaching it to:
o The mount for the stock bellcrank
o The side of the ITBs where the crossbar support attaches
o The breather
To reinforce it, I bent the edges and welded a strengthening rib on the underside for stiffness. I also mounted it at an angle so the throttle motor shaft is parallel to the crossbar.
• Pedal Bracket: I initially built it out of oak to prototype the shape, intending to replace it with metal. However, it turned out so strong that I’ve stuck with the wood bracket for now. I even used my duo-doweler to attach a support to it. Given that pedal boards are plywood anyway, it actually feels like a natural fit.
Cost Breakdown
Here's what I spent on the setup:
• Throttle Motor & Pedal: ~$300
• TPS Sensor: ~$200
• Pedal Connector: ~$20
Since most of the components were used, durability remains to be seen—but so far, so good!

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Thanks! Great write up and setup.

I've put about 50 miles on the car and my only regret is not switching to ITB/EFI sooner. The car, while still needing some tuning, is running great. I put the interior back in today and the wiring is well hidden from view. The ECU is under the passenger seat so while not easily accessible, it has WIFI for data logging and for the Haltech phone app.

Drivers side with BMW pedal
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746316444.jpg

Carpet hiding the hump from the large cable bundle
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746316444.jpg

You can see the black wire loom next to the air duct in the passenger foot well. It's the wiring going from the ECU under the passenger seat to the frunk.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746316444.jpg

I installed the MFI air filter on my engine. Getting the velocity stacks in place was a real challenge—there’s barely any room to work. To make the process easier, I swapped out the small M5 studs for M5 Allen head bolts and magnetized my Allen wrench, allowing it to hold the bolt as I guided it into position. While the large air filter does limit access, it provides a convenient spot to mount the air temp sensor and eliminates the need for a catch can.



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Do you think the MFI filter unit is sealed well enough that you could take an accurate summed MAP signal off of it?

Did you mean MAF? That’s a great question—there are quite a few potential leak points to consider. I made gaskets to seal the connection between the filter bases and the ITB tops using plain gasket paper, but ideally, they should be rubber or silicone for a better seal. The rubber gaskets between the filter bases and the top seem snug, so those shouldn’t be an issue.
There’s also a large rubber seal behind the circular air intake piece, which helps maintain a tight seal. I’ve ensured the drain pipe on mine is completely sealed, but I’m not sure how to handle the hose from the oil tank. It would likely need to be routed to a catch can, with the opening at the filter sealed.
Do you think our cars would benefit from a MAF

I was thinking MAP, as you could get an average of the system rather than taking it off of each throttle body therefore leaving the individual vacuum ports available for idle air for those of us not having drive by wire benefits.

Oh, I didn't realize that was an option. You're way ahead of me with all this. Frankly, I'm surprised my car runs as good as it does. Beginner's luck I suppose.

I have nothing on you! Your methodical approach has almost guaranteed a good running system.

I’m running on MAP and factory pedal linkage, so not able to use the vacuum ports to introduce idle air to raise my cold idle and keep the car running without me holding the gas down slightly until warmer. I think I’m going to try to set up a TPS based VE table and see how that works. My car does run pretty well with MAP as my compression ratio is low and my cams are mild.

MAP should be read after the throttle blades before the intake valves.

Thanks! I was thinking that might have been the case, appreciate you chiming in before I might have spent a bunch of money for naught.

… however… a MAF signal would really be the trick. Fewer folks tune that way around here, but it is an extremely accurate way to gauge how much air is entering your engine.

I ended up bailing on MAP (and megasquirt actually) in favor of a TPS based system and so far the car is running much better, and I have a functioning IAC. Haven’t done any track work yet but so far around town it’s much smoother and faster than the MAP or even the “ITB mode” based systems I was working with before. I still think a MAF would be the ideal air metering solution

Yes for ITB TPS base tuning is better due to the lack of stable vacuum for ITBs. The plenum is too small to provide a smooth signal. Some have made it work but speed density(MAP) based tuning is better if you have a single throttle valve and a plenum. A very good tuner can blend the two and utilize both TPS and MAP. My tuner recommended using the MAP sensor on my ITBs and he has been able to successfully tune ITBs on GTRs and other ITB engines. Hoping to finish mine by the end of the year so I’ll update on my setup. Haltech R3, Clewett ITBs, full built 2.7 with forged internals. Hopefully it does well.

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If you intend on using MAP to tune (speed density) then you must do a few things:

1.) make sure that the vacuum readings come from after the butterflies. This is absolute and not negotiable.

2.) collect all 6 hoses from each ITB and gather them into a common manifold, even better is to group 123 into a manifold and 456 into another one and then group those into a third. Wanna be even better; fill each manifold with open cell foam to further limit pulsing.

With that (after you balance your ITBs) you'll have a really stable and even MAP signal that will allow you to tune with Speed Density.

If you're on software that allows it, you can scale your VE table, or use dual tables like I did: one table for 30-80kpa, and the second for 80-100kpa. this gives you really tight and precise control over the active range of the MAP signal (80-100 in my case) so you can pinpoint what AFR you want where...

Totally possible to get a really great tune with speed density.

One of the benefits is that it's based on what the engine actually needs, not an assumption (TPS) and it's much faster to change than TPS so when dialed in, the engine genarelly feels super snappy.

Julian,

Do you have any more information on creating dual tables? I'm running Alpha-N and I'd like to investigate how I can get tighter control over my low TPS % numbers

I finally had the chance to put some local miles on the car while recording data. This was also my first drive with an air filter—until now, I've been running solely with the velocity tubes for about 50 miles. Honestly, I can't say I notice any difference with the filter installed.
For the MAP signal, I routed all six tubes into a single manifold before connecting them to the ECU’s built-in sensor. I ensured all six tubes were the same length, though I have no idea if that actually makes a difference. I might experiment with running on MAP, but so far, TPS has been performing excellently.
Here’s the long-term trim data. I'll incorporate these values into the base VE map before my next drive. I haven’t populated many cells yet, but I’m hoping to get the car on the highway soon.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746574240.jpg

Have you seen this thread? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1134997-efi-tuning-how-process-description.html

Jamie put down a lot of info from his years of experience.

He also has a great method to cover most of the cells. He calls it left foot dyno. You use the throttle to hold a steady rpm of the cells you want and then by applying the brake and giving more throttle to keep it at the proper rpm, you can cover the whole scale. He discusses this starting at post #6

I only know how to setup dual tables on TunerStudio and Megasquirt. I’m. It sure if other ECUs have that capability.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've run TPS-only, MAP-only, blended ITB mode (Megasquirt's iteration) for years each and...I can't really tell the difference when they're all tuned. I've settled on TPS-only simply to clean up the engine bay and eliminate most vacuum lines. Don't overthink it, tune whatever you can best wrap your head around IMO.

That's what I'm running

I worked with Oscar Zelaya to tune my race engine. He used to work at MoTec USA and now has his own company and works for the Cadillac GTP team. Oscar has tuned a zillion ITB-based engines and unequivocally said to use Alpha-N (TPS) to tune the ITBs…even for part-throttle areas of the tune. Setting up an air plumbing system to accurately read the MAP is problematic at best and likely inaccurate. You are better off using Alpha-N and a closed loop lambda setup with a lambda sensor for each bank. Of course you would have air pressure sensor to read barometric pressure as well so adjustments would be made based on that. It would also be good to have an ECU that could be given the injector flow profile based on fuel pressure.

With this setup and drive by wire, you don’t need an idle air control setup and you get rid of the vacuum hose mess…much cleaner and super reliable.

Yes but thanks just the same for the reminder. I'll go through it again. He's the Yoda of all things ITB.

I’m calling him Yoda from now on

I recently posted on Showdown's thread about using the Haltech ECU to drive the stock oil pressure and temperature gauges, and I thought I’d share my settings here.

In addition to controlling the gauges, I’m using the ECU to trigger the low oil pressure warning light through a conditional statement. This was something I had considered during the build, but I wasn’t entirely sure it would work. Not long after I got the car running, my ten-year-old oil pressure sensor failed. Rather than spending money on a new one, I decided to let the ECU handle the job.

To make this work, I had to purchase a combination pressure/temperature sensor, which conveniently uses the same threads as the oil warning light sensor, making the swap straightforward. The trickiest part was configuring the DPO (digital pulsed output) signals. Since there’s no predefined setup, I had to rely on trial and error. While I’m still fine-tuning the settings, the gauges appear to be accurate

Here's a few photos of my settings.

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