Can the Maxxecu be mounted in the engine compartment where the CDI would be normally mounted?

RWEST,

All electronics have operating temperature windows both hot and cold. The engine bay temperature in an air cooled 911, given normal ambient temps, does not get over the max operating temperature of most EMS (engine stopped heat soak included) but it will obviously effect longevity over an extended amount of time (daily driver duty compounded by decades). I have worked with a couple people to record data on various air cooled 911s in different areas of the country using a K type thermocouple and I am comfortable with that mounting area.

As an additional note, all of the Maxxecu models are splash proof with the exception of the Mini and the Race H20 which are considered water "proof". Given the CDI mount area, water migration is a non issue on the non water proofed models unless you plan on power washing the ECU or go for submersion.

Remember that two LMP2 cars removed the water bottle as it took them out of Daytona. https://speedcafe.com/mclaughlin-water-bottle-issue-at-daytona/

It was a Maxx Race H20 for me.

100%. A Race H20 is on my personal project as well. I also like how the supplied usb cable has strain relief built into its water proof screwed in fitting.

Why don't all of these ECU's come with Bluetooth or WIFI connectivity? Even the 123 distributor in my jag has Bluetooth. It's mature tech.

I noticed that some of the new Haltech stuff and the top of the line Link ECU have WIFI.
Any others?

Maxxecu sport, race and pro models have Bluetooth connectivity.

Streams all data channels through its mdash android app that can be used with your phone or tablet or even an android radio.

Mdash has user selectable/customized switches (i.e. remote start, tune selector, turn features on and off, boost levels, run disable/kill switch, valet mode, etc), and customized guages, shift lights, etc.





Sent from my SM-F741U using Tapatalk

I don't understand USB cables on most car things. The other end is standard USB A and unprotected. I just put the cap back on the ECU when I'm not plugged in.

For connections, I've seen too many WiFi and BT issues in race cars. If someone wants a keypad, the AiM Open keypads are easy to program and tie in, Strada dash for street cars, and regular logging dash for race cars so you get full analysis. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif

Wireless connectivity is absolutely an issue when it has to count, agreed big time!

Most of the vehicles I tune in a race setting are drag racing specific. I use the maxxecu's on board logging primarily over dash logging with a lot of channels logging at 1k hz.

As with any connector, USB ports are rated for a certain amount of mating cycles before there are issues with either the board mounted header or the cable itself. Cell phone USB ports used for charging as an example.

Since I am constantly connecting to download and edit after every pass I prefer to have the screw in USB cable on the race h2o model in place leading to a separate panel mounted weather proof USB port remotely mounted on/near the dash or other easily accessible location. This serves two purposes, the panel mount USB port is easily replaced when mating cycle limit is reached, and it's usually easier for me to plug into over reaching into the vehicles nether regions.

For road racing I have been loving Plex, AIM and ECU master logging displays personally.

Plex offers a few options with built-in IMUs that broadcasts data nicely via CAN with Maxxecu so you can integrate the dash's GPS vehicle speed, roll, pitch, yaw and g force data streams into your calibration. Very nerd cool stuff that I utilize often.

Sent from my SM-F741U using Tapatalk

USB Mini is rated for a minimum of 5,000 cycles, so I'm not worried about that. I plug into data all the time and use a bulkhead on those (dashes and PDM).

AiM can send CAN outputs of anything it has connected. I transmit fuel pressure, lambda, speed, and lap number to the Maxx. It makes tuning much easier knowing the lap and what part of the track things are happening. We CAN out on AiM stuff all the time for video and connection to PDMs, steering wheels, displays etc. The Aim software is also great for driver improvement.

Thanks for the answer, I have Megasquirt under my seat in a Targa and even though the Megasquirt seems to be a very reliable unit, it gives me a bit of pause since it seems more Heathkit than oem and a leaking Targa roof could put water on the floor.

It always seemed to me that in the full sun on a hot day, the interior is pretty darn hot too.

Rutager

I've ordered a trigger wheel/pulley and cam sensor from Clewett. Based on advice here, thanks Jwest, I'll need to use PMO throttle bodies to get enough clearance for the AC. I may need a modified fuel rail - I found something about that here too.

What an amazing place this is!!!

On to ECU's

I'd been thinking about Megsquirt for my build but their DBW stuff seems to be a bit behind in development compared to the commercial vendors. There's so many to choose from.

MaxxECU, thanks Rivet, at least it has Bluetooth. To get Wifi with Haltech, it's going to be about $2,500. I don't think it's even an option with Link. Since Link only sells through dealers, it's hard to get a handle on there pricing. I checked with four vendors near me, based on Link's website, none of them even list Link as a brand they sell. That's troubling all by itself. I did find a dealer in Florida with pricing.

It looks like MaxxECU sport is a good fit but it doesn't have knock sensing. For that, I'd need to move to a more expensive ECU or use an external module. Adding anything external adds cost so it doesn't make much sense.

All Link ECU's have knock sensing.

So it looks right now I'm looking at:

MaxxECU Race Premium for about $1900
or
Link for at least that much, probably more

Any other vendors I should be looking at?

I don't know of any tuners near me that will help. If I find one, that may change my choices too.

EDIT - I forgot to add that the Haltech Nexus R3, although a lot more money, has power distribution built in. I'm not sure I care about that but if you do, $2500 will likely be substantially less than a MaxxECU Race ECU plus a MaxxECU PDM.

My pleasure, montauk.

I think if you decide on purchasing a Maxxecu EMS the Race model is a good choice if the budget allows as you will gain not only two knock sensor inputs but you will also gain H bridge control for drive by wire and additional inputs and outputs for future expansion.

Knock sensing is a valuable feature for sure but it does take considerable time to tune as an FYI. Our motors have quite a bit of mechanical noise to begin with and will take some trial and error to set the knock detection filtering to properly work along with adapting knock sensors in a correct spot (i.e not on the cam case nor on the heads). I do this on the dyno in conjunction with stand alone knock detection tools to dial it in and can be time intensive.

The newest Haltech products and their new NSP software/firmware has been a bit buggy lately as they polish the feature set and have a few idiosyncrasies when updating that need to be adhered to but it is a good option. The hardware is quite nice I have to say. I am a dealer for them as well.

The two other brands not mentioned that do an excellent job both in hardware and software is Emtron, and Motec obviously. While I am not a dealer for either of them I do have experience with tuning both of these in a race setting and think they are great options while not my personal preferred choice.

Anyone used ECU Master EMU Black? Looks super capable, especially for the price. Had a hard time getting any replies from a number of standalone suppliers.

https://ecumasterusa.com/collections/standalone-engine-management/products/ecumaster-emu-black-standalone-ecu?variant=8318139039805

Seems to have a lot of features built in that require lots of additional parts and cost with all the other suppliers.

Duplicate

That's what I'm running. I did not install nor tune it nor can I reflect on any of the technical issues but I can tell you my car runs very well.

I've been searching for and reading about ECU's for a couple of years. My original plan was to go with Megasquirt but I wasn't happy with the DBW implementation. Looking at the features of the EMU Black and the price, I think it's a very good deal compared to Link, Haltech, etc. but I'm a total newbie with this stuff.

I just ordered the Haltech R3. The big difference between it and other ECU's is that is has a power distribution unit built in. I won't need any extra relays, at least that's the plan. But it comes with a big price - about double what your looking, $2500, with the wiring harness. It's way more than I need but I'm an EE so having electrical gadgets to tinker with is never a bad thing.

I use the Emu Black - works well. It's the first conversion to efi I did my myself. Using a rough map for first run, provided by the local distributor here in Aus, the car ran REALLY well. I was surprised. Of course, additional tuning and it's running even better.

Can't go wrong with the haltech tho. Pls report back how it works for you.

I will. I should have mentioned too that I've learned a lot from watching Haltech's videos so I'm happy to support them.

ECU Master Black
 

Love this thread! Probably 72 hrs ago, we dropped a file in my ECM as I get closer to firing this thing up --- hopefully right after the Thanksgiving week. Air-cooled shop, Sports Purpose Garage's Erik Lind, sold me my ECU Master Black as he has it in his personal hot rod and installed and tuned in several other customer builds that he's done in past few years. It appears to be a sweet and robust unit. I look forward to getting more familiar with it in the coming weeks & months as I crank and fine tune this 3L. Doing sequential COP spark and injection with DBW pedal.

Looks like there are a lot of great choices out there. I do believe in having good local support / knowledge will be a big benefit as I dive into the deep end of the pool that I know very little about - other than watching YouTube and reading these types of Pelican threads... Have a great Thanksgiving. Patrick

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732712173.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732712173.jpg

Nice! As you're aware, Erik did my ITB/EFI/ECU conversion/install/tune. He's a great guy and easy to work with.

My first choice was Haltech but when I was ordering in 2022 there was at least a 6 month delay to get one here in Canada. EMU Black was my second choice because it seemed easy to configure and tune. I installed it, created a base tune and street tuned it myself. Took it for a dyno tune and also got great help and support from some of the EMU Black users who are here on the Pelican forum.

Many ecus in the same price category have similar features. Picking one that has a supportive community of users and tuners that you can access is an additional deciding factor.

I'm looking forward to seeing your build!

Here is my 3.2 SS High Butterfly, twin plug BOSCH COP’s. Special thank you to Jamie (JPNovak) for his guidance and advice on this build. Decided to go with Megasquirt MS3Pro mini for the ECU.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732850361.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732850411.jpg

andoni510......looks to be a very nice build

regards,
al

The Clewett trigger wheel and cam sensor arrived today. The Haltech R3 should arrive this week. The PMO stuff should be here in two weeks.

I pulled the engine, seats, carpets, etc. this afternoon. I pulled the O2 system out too. I was able to pull the wiring from the rear of the car completely intact. Getting the wiring out that goes up front intact will be a challenge. There's just so little room to work.

I'm planning to put the R3 under the passenger seat where the O2 box was. I need to run 2#4 battery cables to the PDU side of the Haltech N3. I'm sure I'll need to get a few other small wires up to the fuse box too.

What's the best route to get cables up there? Getting behind the dash on the driver side to access wires looks like a blood bath.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732923270.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732923270.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732923270.jpg

Andoni510, I really like the looks of those throttle bodies. What are those? Porsche MFI that have been modified? How big?

Are those the Adapt Motorsport "adapters" between the 965 manifold and the heads?

How's the angle of the injectors? it looks to be spraying 'across' the port rather than straight into it?

Since we’re talking about ECUs. I opted for a Haltech R3 as well, there’s a lot of talented support that specialize in this platform. I also opted to mount the ECU in the engine compartment.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5dcd080ecd.jpg

Nice. I thought the engine compartment was not optimum due to heat.

The R3 has built in wide band support. Do you need an extra one?

What else are you going to control?
Fuel pump?

The compartment is cool enough and it’s designed for up to 85*C so it should be fine I there.

I have dual wide bands one for each bank and also EGT for tuning purposes to trim the fuel for each cylinder. Overboard? Yes but I want to use the features.

Did you completely remove the old wiring? I stripped out all the wire I don't need. I've still got 7 wires in the 14 terminal connector but it wouldn't be too difficult at this point to just go with all new wiring. Once all the CIS related wiring is out, there just isn't much left.

running good next the dyno
 

Had some ups and downs with this, but getting better, glad its working.
If your planning this conversion to EFI talk to people who have gone through it, and will tell there story, I wish I had talked with more folkshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733005686.jpg

Not much needed besides what hooks up to the gauges, tach signal, key on ign, reverse light switch etc. I’m keeping all the factory gauges I got them restored so I’m going to use them. The rest of the wiring was deleted. No rear defrost, no rear blower etc. simplified what I could.

I was wondering if it's possible to send the oil pressure sensor output to an R3 input and use an R3 output to control the oil pressure gauge. That would be nice but a bit of a waste of precious I/O points.

Right now I'm planning on using the R3 for the fuel pump and starter solenoid.

From Mike:
Are those the Adapt Motorsport "adapters" between the 965 manifold and the heads?
How's the angle of the injectors? it looks to be spraying 'across' the port rather than straight into it?

Yes, the 2-bolt adapters and fuel rails are from Adapt. I’m not sure if, or how much more, the angle of the injectors is different than stock. I still have all the other 964 intake parts boxed up so I could mock up on a table and compare. Interesting question. :). Patrick

Well, after some searching I found this:
https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/show/how-do-i-control-dash-temp-guage-with-haltech-elite

<i>I realize this is several years old now and may not be of much use to the OP. But I was trying to find a solution to this same issue of trying to control an OEM gauge with an aftermarket ECU and came across this post. Fortunately, I didn't give up after reading this thread! Turns out it's actually very easy to control OEM gauges using PWM, at least certain types. If the OEM gauge sending unit uses a varying resistance to ground, like an NTC coolant temp sensor, all you have to do is disconnect the wire from the OEM sending unit and connect it to a digital pulsed output on the ECU, assuming the ECU has it's own input for that parameter, like engine temp. Then it's just a matter of setting up a table with the duty cycle that will give you the right readings on the gauge with the ECU switching to ground. The varying PWM duty cycle to ground emulates the varying resistance to ground of the OEM sending unit. Best way to determine the proper duty cycles for the table is by simulating the relevant sensor input to the ECU so you can determine the duty cycles needed for the full range on the gauge. Takes a bit of trial and error, but all you really need are min and max and maybe somewhere in between. Really depends on how many hash marks are on the gauge.

I did this with for the OEM coolant temp and oil pressure gauges in my 1973 Datsun 240Z using a Haltech Elite 2500 and it works great! Eliminated redundant wiring and sending units.</i>

I'm doing a DBW conversion on my PMO ITB set up.

1. Anyone got pics of a similar set up?
2. What servo / actuator / motor did you use?
3. Did the motor connect to the cross bar directly or actuate the bell crank on the rear of the LH throttle body?
4. What pedal was used? Floor mounted pedals with dual potentiometers are hard to find

Many thanks.

1, 2, and 3. Yes. I used two DBW motors from EFI Hardware (located in Australia) with a MoTec M150 ECU:

https://www.efihardware.com/products/3196/drive-by-wire-actuator-dbw

Use the sensors (main and tracking) built into the DBW motors and not sensors mounted on the ITBs. You could try to do this with one DBW motor but I was told it is best to have one DBW motor per bank.

I made my own custom DBW motor mount setup:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733706159.JPG

4. I installed a Tilton pedal box and used there pedal and throttle pedal position sensor mount. It uses one physical unit with 2 sensors (main and tracking) built in. That is how most everyone does it with the sensors.

^^ thank you. I've actualy answered most of my questions calling EFI Hardware. They have run V10s on a single actuator so it's capable. It can pull a load of 5kgs and as a rule of thumb if you can hand operate the mechanism, the actuator will cope with it. Just need to package it so it will pull on the common throttle bar lever. Re the pedal I'm not going full Tilton etc so just need a floor mounted DBW pedal. EFI have a solution here as well. Mount their assembly somewere on the floor behind the pedalbox and attach to the factory pedal with a rod. Job done. It has a return spring too.

https://www.efihardware.com/products/2503/Drive-By-Wire-Throttle-Pedal-Position-Sensor-Kit

Why did you ask the questions if you already had the answers?

It looks like I wasted my time as nothing I posted seems useful to you. Maybe someone else will find something I wrote of value.

You mentioned EFI Hardware, I rang them, got the answers, and posted them here as a courtesy to others. In fact I got a PM from someone from the post with some very helpful info. So I tihnk everyone has been enriched...