Post your ITB Setup

[rwest]

Originally Posted by Rivet

Just chiming in on the Maxxecu front.

I am a dealer and tuner for Maxxecu and I know I am biased in saying so but it is hands down my favorite to work with. But this comes from being a professional calibration specialist for 20 years working with all your typical brands and systems on everything from air cooled street motorcycles to all out max effort championship race vehicles.

Here is the last 911 I was involved with. I provided the Maxxecu and tech support to the shop installing it and wiring it. Provided a base map and then calibrated using my Dyno Dynamics Dynotech chassis dyno and then road tuning after. The engine combination and calibration made for a terrifically smooth power delivery and excellent street manners.

Engine is a mild 3.4 liter with a Will Pyle assembled top end using KR75 cams, Apgar spec CP pistons, stock ports, PMO throttle bodies, SSI small tube headers with modified Dansk muffler (great low end torque but sacrificing top end power) and a Maxxecu Street ECU.

Video shows a dyno graph with calculated flywheel HP and torque with math developed in house by Dyno Dynamics (manufacturers of engine dynos as well).













This is my personal 3.0 liter, I went with RHD individual throttle bodies go with a Maxxecu Race ECU. This one will be a high rev'ing, big port, high output setup to push my targa around.

Can the Maxxecu be mounted in the engine compartment where the CDI would be normally mounted?

[Rivet]

Originally Posted by rwest

Can the Maxxecu be mounted in the engine compartment where the CDI would be normally mounted?

RWEST,

All electronics have operating temperature windows both hot and cold. The engine bay temperature in an air cooled 911, given normal ambient temps, does not get over the max operating temperature of most EMS (engine stopped heat soak included) but it will obviously effect longevity over an extended amount of time (daily driver duty compounded by decades). I have worked with a couple people to record data on various air cooled 911s in different areas of the country using a K type thermocouple and I am comfortable with that mounting area.

As an additional note, all of the Maxxecu models are splash proof with the exception of the Mini and the Race H20 which are considered water "proof". Given the CDI mount area, water migration is a non issue on the non water proofed models unless you plan on power washing the ECU or go for submersion.

[Matt Romanowski]

Remember that two LMP2 cars removed the water bottle as it took them out of Daytona. https://speedcafe.com/mclaughlin-water-bottle-issue-at-daytona/

It was a Maxx Race H20 for me.

[Rivet]

Originally Posted by Matt Romanowski

Remember that two LMP2 cars removed the water bottle as it took them out of Daytona. https://speedcafe.com/mclaughlin-water-bottle-issue-at-daytona/

It was a Maxx Race H20 for me.

100%. A Race H20 is on my personal project as well. I also like how the supplied usb cable has strain relief built into its water proof screwed in fitting.

[montauk]

Why don't all of these ECU's come with Bluetooth or WIFI connectivity? Even the 123 distributor in my jag has Bluetooth. It's mature tech.

I noticed that some of the new Haltech stuff and the top of the line Link ECU have WIFI.
Any others?

[Rivet]

Originally Posted by montauk

Why don't all of these ECU's come with Bluetooth or WIFI connectivity? Even the 123 distributor in my jag has Bluetooth. It's mature tech.

I noticed that some of the new Haltech stuff and the top of the line Link ECU have WIFI.
Any others?

Maxxecu sport, race and pro models have Bluetooth connectivity.

Streams all data channels through its mdash android app that can be used with your phone or tablet or even an android radio.

Mdash has user selectable/customized switches (i.e. remote start, tune selector, turn features on and off, boost levels, run disable/kill switch, valet mode, etc), and customized guages, shift lights, etc.





Sent from my SM-F741U using Tapatalk

[Matt Romanowski]

Originally Posted by Rivet

100%. A Race H20 is on my personal project as well. I also like how the supplied usb cable has strain relief built into its water proof screwed in fitting.

I don't understand USB cables on most car things. The other end is standard USB A and unprotected. I just put the cap back on the ECU when I'm not plugged in.

For connections, I've seen too many WiFi and BT issues in race cars. If someone wants a keypad, the AiM Open keypads are easy to program and tie in, Strada dash for street cars, and regular logging dash for race cars so you get full analysis.

[Rivet]

Originally Posted by Matt Romanowski

I don't understand USB cables on most car things. The other end is standard USB A and unprotected. I just put the cap back on the ECU when I'm not plugged in.



For connections, I've seen too many WiFi and BT issues in race cars. If someone wants a keypad, the AiM Open keypads are easy to program and tie in, Strada dash for street cars, and regular logging dash for race cars so you get full analysis.

Wireless connectivity is absolutely an issue when it has to count, agreed big time!

Most of the vehicles I tune in a race setting are drag racing specific. I use the maxxecu's on board logging primarily over dash logging with a lot of channels logging at 1k hz.

As with any connector, USB ports are rated for a certain amount of mating cycles before there are issues with either the board mounted header or the cable itself. Cell phone USB ports used for charging as an example.

Since I am constantly connecting to download and edit after every pass I prefer to have the screw in USB cable on the race h2o model in place leading to a separate panel mounted weather proof USB port remotely mounted on/near the dash or other easily accessible location. This serves two purposes, the panel mount USB port is easily replaced when mating cycle limit is reached, and it's usually easier for me to plug into over reaching into the vehicles nether regions.

For road racing I have been loving Plex, AIM and ECU master logging displays personally.

Plex offers a few options with built-in IMUs that broadcasts data nicely via CAN with Maxxecu so you can integrate the dash's GPS vehicle speed, roll, pitch, yaw and g force data streams into your calibration. Very nerd cool stuff that I utilize often.

Sent from my SM-F741U using Tapatalk

[Matt Romanowski]

Originally Posted by Rivet

As with any connector, USB ports are rated for a certain amount of mating cycles before there are issues with either the board mounted header or the cable itself. Cell phone USB ports used for charging as an example.

For road racing I have been loving Plex, AIM and ECU master logging displays personally.

Plex offers a few options with built-in IMUs that broadcasts data nicely via CAN with Maxxecu so you can integrate the dash's GPS vehicle speed, roll, pitch, yaw and g force data streams into your calibration. Very nerd cool stuff that I utilize often.

Sent from my SM-F741U using Tapatalk

USB Mini is rated for a minimum of 5,000 cycles, so I'm not worried about that. I plug into data all the time and use a bulkhead on those (dashes and PDM).

AiM can send CAN outputs of anything it has connected. I transmit fuel pressure, lambda, speed, and lap number to the Maxx. It makes tuning much easier knowing the lap and what part of the track things are happening. We CAN out on AiM stuff all the time for video and connection to PDMs, steering wheels, displays etc. The Aim software is also great for driver improvement.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by Rivet

RWEST,

All electronics have operating temperature windows both hot and cold. The engine bay temperature in an air cooled 911, given normal ambient temps, does not get over the max operating temperature of most EMS (engine stopped heat soak included) but it will obviously effect longevity over an extended amount of time (daily driver duty compounded by decades). I have worked with a couple people to record data on various air cooled 911s in different areas of the country using a K type thermocouple and I am comfortable with that mounting area.

As an additional note, all of the Maxxecu models are splash proof with the exception of the Mini and the Race H20 which are considered water "proof". Given the CDI mount area, water migration is a non issue on the non water proofed models unless you plan on power washing the ECU or go for submersion.

Thanks for the answer, I have Megasquirt under my seat in a Targa and even though the Megasquirt seems to be a very reliable unit, it gives me a bit of pause since it seems more Heathkit than oem and a leaking Targa roof could put water on the floor.

It always seemed to me that in the full sun on a hot day, the interior is pretty darn hot too.

Rutager

[montauk]

I've ordered a trigger wheel/pulley and cam sensor from Clewett. Based on advice here, thanks Jwest, I'll need to use PMO throttle bodies to get enough clearance for the AC. I may need a modified fuel rail - I found something about that here too.

What an amazing place this is!!!

On to ECU's

I'd been thinking about Megsquirt for my build but their DBW stuff seems to be a bit behind in development compared to the commercial vendors. There's so many to choose from.

MaxxECU, thanks Rivet, at least it has Bluetooth. To get Wifi with Haltech, it's going to be about $2,500. I don't think it's even an option with Link. Since Link only sells through dealers, it's hard to get a handle on there pricing. I checked with four vendors near me, based on Link's website, none of them even list Link as a brand they sell. That's troubling all by itself. I did find a dealer in Florida with pricing.

It looks like MaxxECU sport is a good fit but it doesn't have knock sensing. For that, I'd need to move to a more expensive ECU or use an external module. Adding anything external adds cost so it doesn't make much sense.

All Link ECU's have knock sensing.

So it looks right now I'm looking at:

MaxxECU Race Premium for about $1900
or
Link for at least that much, probably more

Any other vendors I should be looking at?

I don't know of any tuners near me that will help. If I find one, that may change my choices too.

EDIT - I forgot to add that the Haltech Nexus R3, although a lot more money, has power distribution built in. I'm not sure I care about that but if you do, $2500 will likely be substantially less than a MaxxECU Race ECU plus a MaxxECU PDM.

[Rivet]

Originally Posted by montauk

I've ordered a trigger wheel/pulley and cam sensor from Clewett. Based on advice here, thanks Jwest, I'll need to use PMO throttle bodies to get enough clearance for the AC. I may need a modified fuel rail - I found something about that here too.

What an amazing place this is!!!

On to ECU's

I'd been thinking about Megsquirt for my build but their DBW stuff seems to be a bit behind in development compared to the commercial vendors. There's so many to choose from.

MaxxECU, thanks Rivet, at least it has Bluetooth. To get Wifi with Haltech, it's going to be about $2,500. I don't think it's even an option with Link. Since Link only sells through dealers, it's hard to get a handle on there pricing. I checked with four vendors near me, based on Link's website, none of them even list Link as a brand they sell. That's troubling all by itself. I did find a dealer in Florida with pricing.

It looks like MaxxECU sport is a good fit but it doesn't have knock sensing. For that, I'd need to move to a more expensive ECU or use an external module. Adding anything external adds cost so it doesn't make much sense.

All Link ECU's have knock sensing.

So it looks right now I'm looking at:

MaxxECU Race Premium for about $1900
or
Link for at least that much, probably more

Any other vendors I should be looking at?

I don't know of any tuners near me that will help. If I find one, that may change my choices too.

EDIT - I forgot to add that the Haltech Nexus R3, although a lot more money, has power distribution built in. I'm not sure I care about that but if you do, $2500 will likely be substantially less than a MaxxECU Race ECU plus a MaxxECU PDM.

My pleasure, montauk.

I think if you decide on purchasing a Maxxecu EMS the Race model is a good choice if the budget allows as you will gain not only two knock sensor inputs but you will also gain H bridge control for drive by wire and additional inputs and outputs for future expansion.

Knock sensing is a valuable feature for sure but it does take considerable time to tune as an FYI. Our motors have quite a bit of mechanical noise to begin with and will take some trial and error to set the knock detection filtering to properly work along with adapting knock sensors in a correct spot (i.e not on the cam case nor on the heads). I do this on the dyno in conjunction with stand alone knock detection tools to dial it in and can be time intensive.

The newest Haltech products and their new NSP software/firmware has been a bit buggy lately as they polish the feature set and have a few idiosyncrasies when updating that need to be adhered to but it is a good option. The hardware is quite nice I have to say. I am a dealer for them as well.

The two other brands not mentioned that do an excellent job both in hardware and software is Emtron, and Motec obviously. While I am not a dealer for either of them I do have experience with tuning both of these in a race setting and think they are great options while not my personal preferred choice.

[gearheadgreg]

Anyone used ECU Master EMU Black? Looks super capable, especially for the price. Had a hard time getting any replies from a number of standalone suppliers.

https://ecumasterusa.com/collections/standalone-engine-management/products/ecumaster-emu-black-standalone-ecu?variant=8318139039805

Seems to have a lot of features built in that require lots of additional parts and cost with all the other suppliers.

[gearheadgreg]

Duplicate

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by gearheadgreg

Anyone used ECU Master EMU Black? Looks super capable, especially for the price. Had a hard time getting any replies from a number of standalone suppliers.

https://ecumasterusa.com/collections/standalone-engine-management/products/ecumaster-emu-black-standalone-ecu?variant=8318139039805

Seems to have a lot of features built in that require lots of additional parts and cost with all the other suppliers.

That's what I'm running. I did not install nor tune it nor can I reflect on any of the technical issues but I can tell you my car runs very well.

[montauk]

Originally Posted by gearheadgreg

Anyone used ECU Master EMU Black? Looks super capable, especially for the price. Had a hard time getting any replies from a number of standalone suppliers.

https://ecumasterusa.com/collections/standalone-engine-management/products/ecumaster-emu-black-standalone-ecu?variant=8318139039805

Seems to have a lot of features built in that require lots of additional parts and cost with all the other suppliers.

I've been searching for and reading about ECU's for a couple of years. My original plan was to go with Megasquirt but I wasn't happy with the DBW implementation. Looking at the features of the EMU Black and the price, I think it's a very good deal compared to Link, Haltech, etc. but I'm a total newbie with this stuff.

I just ordered the Haltech R3. The big difference between it and other ECU's is that is has a power distribution unit built in. I won't need any extra relays, at least that's the plan. But it comes with a big price - about double what your looking, $2500, with the wiring harness. It's way more than I need but I'm an EE so having electrical gadgets to tinker with is never a bad thing.

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by montauk

I've been searching for and reading about ECU's for a couple of years. My original plan was to go with Megasquirt but I wasn't happy with the DBW implementation. Looking at the features of the EMU Black and the price, I think it's a very good deal compared to Link, Haltech, etc. but I'm a total newbie with this stuff.

I just ordered the Haltech R3. The big difference between it and other ECU's is that is has a power distribution unit built in. I won't need any extra relays, at least that's the plan. But it comes with a big price - about double what your looking, $2500, with the wiring harness. It's way more than I need but I'm an EE so having electrical gadgets to tinker with is never a bad thing.

I use the Emu Black - works well. It's the first conversion to efi I did my myself. Using a rough map for first run, provided by the local distributor here in Aus, the car ran REALLY well. I was surprised. Of course, additional tuning and it's running even better.

Can't go wrong with the haltech tho. Pls report back how it works for you.

[montauk]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

I use the Emu Black - works well. It's the first conversion to efi I did my myself. Using a rough map for first run, provided by the local distributor here in Aus, the car ran REALLY well. I was surprised. Of course, additional tuning and it's running even better.

Can't go wrong with the haltech tho. Pls report back how it works for you.

I will. I should have mentioned too that I've learned a lot from watching Haltech's videos so I'm happy to support them.

[ToySnakePMC]

Love this thread! Probably 72 hrs ago, we dropped a file in my ECM as I get closer to firing this thing up --- hopefully right after the Thanksgiving week. Air-cooled shop, Sports Purpose Garage's Erik Lind, sold me my ECU Master Black as he has it in his personal hot rod and installed and tuned in several other customer builds that he's done in past few years. It appears to be a sweet and robust unit. I look forward to getting more familiar with it in the coming weeks & months as I crank and fine tune this 3L. Doing sequential COP spark and injection with DBW pedal.

Looks like there are a lot of great choices out there. I do believe in having good local support / knowledge will be a big benefit as I dive into the deep end of the pool that I know very little about - other than watching YouTube and reading these types of Pelican threads... Have a great Thanksgiving. Patrick

[MrBonus]

Originally Posted by ToySnakePMC

Love this thread! Probably 72 hrs ago, we dropped a file in my ECM as I get closer to firing this thing up --- hopefully right after the Thanksgiving week. Air-cooled shop, Sports Purpose Garage's Erik Lind, sold me my ECU Master Black as he has it in his personal hot rod and installed and tuned in several other customer builds that he's done in past few years. It appears to be a sweet and robust unit. I look forward to getting more familiar with it in the coming weeks & months as I crank and fine tune this 3L. Doing sequential COP spark and injection with DBW pedal.

Looks like there are a lot of great choices out there. I do believe in having good local support / knowledge will be a big benefit as I dive into the deep end of the pool that I know very little about - other than watching YouTube and reading these types of Pelican threads... Have a great Thanksgiving. Patrick

Nice! As you're aware, Erik did my ITB/EFI/ECU conversion/install/tune. He's a great guy and easy to work with.