My first choice was Haltech but when I was ordering in 2022 there was at least a 6 month delay to get one here in Canada. EMU Black was my second choice because it seemed easy to configure and tune. I installed it, created a base tune and street tuned it myself. Took it for a dyno tune and also got great help and support from some of the EMU Black users who are here on the Pelican forum.

Many ecus in the same price category have similar features. Picking one that has a supportive community of users and tuners that you can access is an additional deciding factor.

I'm looking forward to seeing your build!

Here is my 3.2 SS High Butterfly, twin plug BOSCH COP’s. Special thank you to Jamie (JPNovak) for his guidance and advice on this build. Decided to go with Megasquirt MS3Pro mini for the ECU.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732850361.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732850411.jpg

andoni510......looks to be a very nice build

regards,
al

The Clewett trigger wheel and cam sensor arrived today. The Haltech R3 should arrive this week. The PMO stuff should be here in two weeks.

I pulled the engine, seats, carpets, etc. this afternoon. I pulled the O2 system out too. I was able to pull the wiring from the rear of the car completely intact. Getting the wiring out that goes up front intact will be a challenge. There's just so little room to work.

I'm planning to put the R3 under the passenger seat where the O2 box was. I need to run 2#4 battery cables to the PDU side of the Haltech N3. I'm sure I'll need to get a few other small wires up to the fuse box too.

What's the best route to get cables up there? Getting behind the dash on the driver side to access wires looks like a blood bath.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732923270.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732923270.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732923270.jpg

Andoni510, I really like the looks of those throttle bodies. What are those? Porsche MFI that have been modified? How big?

Are those the Adapt Motorsport "adapters" between the 965 manifold and the heads?

How's the angle of the injectors? it looks to be spraying 'across' the port rather than straight into it?

Since we’re talking about ECUs. I opted for a Haltech R3 as well, there’s a lot of talented support that specialize in this platform. I also opted to mount the ECU in the engine compartment.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5dcd080ecd.jpg

Nice. I thought the engine compartment was not optimum due to heat.

The R3 has built in wide band support. Do you need an extra one?

What else are you going to control?
Fuel pump?

The compartment is cool enough and it’s designed for up to 85*C so it should be fine I there.

I have dual wide bands one for each bank and also EGT for tuning purposes to trim the fuel for each cylinder. Overboard? Yes but I want to use the features.

Did you completely remove the old wiring? I stripped out all the wire I don't need. I've still got 7 wires in the 14 terminal connector but it wouldn't be too difficult at this point to just go with all new wiring. Once all the CIS related wiring is out, there just isn't much left.

running good next the dyno
 

Had some ups and downs with this, but getting better, glad its working.
If your planning this conversion to EFI talk to people who have gone through it, and will tell there story, I wish I had talked with more folkshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733005686.jpg

Not much needed besides what hooks up to the gauges, tach signal, key on ign, reverse light switch etc. I’m keeping all the factory gauges I got them restored so I’m going to use them. The rest of the wiring was deleted. No rear defrost, no rear blower etc. simplified what I could.

I was wondering if it's possible to send the oil pressure sensor output to an R3 input and use an R3 output to control the oil pressure gauge. That would be nice but a bit of a waste of precious I/O points.

Right now I'm planning on using the R3 for the fuel pump and starter solenoid.

From Mike:
Are those the Adapt Motorsport "adapters" between the 965 manifold and the heads?
How's the angle of the injectors? it looks to be spraying 'across' the port rather than straight into it?

Yes, the 2-bolt adapters and fuel rails are from Adapt. I’m not sure if, or how much more, the angle of the injectors is different than stock. I still have all the other 964 intake parts boxed up so I could mock up on a table and compare. Interesting question. :). Patrick

Well, after some searching I found this:
https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/show/how-do-i-control-dash-temp-guage-with-haltech-elite

<i>I realize this is several years old now and may not be of much use to the OP. But I was trying to find a solution to this same issue of trying to control an OEM gauge with an aftermarket ECU and came across this post. Fortunately, I didn't give up after reading this thread! Turns out it's actually very easy to control OEM gauges using PWM, at least certain types. If the OEM gauge sending unit uses a varying resistance to ground, like an NTC coolant temp sensor, all you have to do is disconnect the wire from the OEM sending unit and connect it to a digital pulsed output on the ECU, assuming the ECU has it's own input for that parameter, like engine temp. Then it's just a matter of setting up a table with the duty cycle that will give you the right readings on the gauge with the ECU switching to ground. The varying PWM duty cycle to ground emulates the varying resistance to ground of the OEM sending unit. Best way to determine the proper duty cycles for the table is by simulating the relevant sensor input to the ECU so you can determine the duty cycles needed for the full range on the gauge. Takes a bit of trial and error, but all you really need are min and max and maybe somewhere in between. Really depends on how many hash marks are on the gauge.

I did this with for the OEM coolant temp and oil pressure gauges in my 1973 Datsun 240Z using a Haltech Elite 2500 and it works great! Eliminated redundant wiring and sending units.</i>

I'm doing a DBW conversion on my PMO ITB set up.

1. Anyone got pics of a similar set up?
2. What servo / actuator / motor did you use?
3. Did the motor connect to the cross bar directly or actuate the bell crank on the rear of the LH throttle body?
4. What pedal was used? Floor mounted pedals with dual potentiometers are hard to find

Many thanks.

1, 2, and 3. Yes. I used two DBW motors from EFI Hardware (located in Australia) with a MoTec M150 ECU:

https://www.efihardware.com/products/3196/drive-by-wire-actuator-dbw

Use the sensors (main and tracking) built into the DBW motors and not sensors mounted on the ITBs. You could try to do this with one DBW motor but I was told it is best to have one DBW motor per bank.

I made my own custom DBW motor mount setup:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733706159.JPG

4. I installed a Tilton pedal box and used there pedal and throttle pedal position sensor mount. It uses one physical unit with 2 sensors (main and tracking) built in. That is how most everyone does it with the sensors.

^^ thank you. I've actualy answered most of my questions calling EFI Hardware. They have run V10s on a single actuator so it's capable. It can pull a load of 5kgs and as a rule of thumb if you can hand operate the mechanism, the actuator will cope with it. Just need to package it so it will pull on the common throttle bar lever. Re the pedal I'm not going full Tilton etc so just need a floor mounted DBW pedal. EFI have a solution here as well. Mount their assembly somewere on the floor behind the pedalbox and attach to the factory pedal with a rod. Job done. It has a return spring too.

https://www.efihardware.com/products/2503/Drive-By-Wire-Throttle-Pedal-Position-Sensor-Kit

Why did you ask the questions if you already had the answers?

It looks like I wasted my time as nothing I posted seems useful to you. Maybe someone else will find something I wrote of value.

You mentioned EFI Hardware, I rang them, got the answers, and posted them here as a courtesy to others. In fact I got a PM from someone from the post with some very helpful info. So I tihnk everyone has been enriched...