Survey? What Torsion setup to use?

[piperpilotduane]

Ok guys give me some input on what size and brand of front and rear torsion bars you have and suggestions as to what I should buy. I am an agressive driver and prefer a good street/autocross combination. I will drive the car on weekends and to PCA driving events. Drivers Ed at first then maybe some competition. The ones in the car now are origional and have lost their torsion. Drivers side is weak. I have read some of the tech articles that suggest 27mm rear and 21mm front, but I want your real life experience. Thanks in advance for your advice.

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Duane
'73 914, '76 912E,
& '76 VW BUS (ALL 2.0L)

[This message has been edited by piperpilotduane (edited 10-16-2001).]

[Superman]

I drive my car every day and intend to continue with this practice. I would gleefully put 21mm on front and 27 or 28 on back. but I have heard from folks who think this is excessively stiff for a daily driver. I have driven a car with 28 rears and I definitely did not find it offensive. "Go wth the hollow bars" is the advice I've gotten from people who should know.

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'83 SC

[911pcars]

These torsion bars going into a 914 (frt. only) or 912? Perhaps the folks on the other forums have more experience.

What do you mean weak? How about reindexing it to bring the car height back up? Or do you want stiffer springs too?

[Clark Griswald]

I have 21/27 on my '86 and use it for a combination of daily driving and DE. I am very pleased.

It is stiffer than stock, but not objectionable to me. I love the feeling of control. And it is much better on the track.

However, your 76 is probably 10% lighter than a Carrera and so will yeild a stiffer ride for a given tbar. That is not much difference though.

I think you would be pleased with this combination. But if you can take a drive in a similarly equipped car, do so and see for yourself.

I wouldn't bother with the hollow bars. The only advantage is a few less pounds, and they are $pendy. Since you are not building a race car, a few pounds won't matter.

Also, if you don't already have Konis or Bilstein, build these into your budget. You are waisting money on the tbars without the shocks. Also plan on doing your bushings at the same time. Don't even think about skipping that step.

But as for your stock tbars losing torsion, as 911pcar mentioned you only need to adjust these to restore ride height. The tension will be fine (unless they have rusted severely).

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Chuck Moreland '86 Cab - "Sparky", '77 Targa - "Sweet Pea"

[This message has been edited by Clark Griswald (edited 10-16-2001).]

[RarlyL8]

21/26 on a 2500lb 911SC street car. Perfect.

[tobluforu]

21\28 on my 72. The front is the harshest part on my suspension-feel wise.

[Randy W]

I would agree in general with everything that has already been said. My recommendation for an agressively driven '76 912 would be 21/26 hollow t-bars with new shocks (if these are old too). In a similar 911 (with more weight in the rear), I think 21/27 hollow is the perfect compromise between street and track - that's what I have in my '72S.

Randy Wells

[Jack Olsen]

21/30 on a 73 911 with a 3.6. But I've got a whole lot more weight in the back-end than you do (and my car's engine is pretty heavy, too ).

I'd say 21/27 would be good for your application. Skip hollow, unless you've got money to burn, and Bilstein sports. Also look into adjustable swaybars.

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Jack Olsen
My Rennlist page • My Pelican Gallery page • My Porsche Owners Gallery page

[pbs911]

Originally posted by Clark Griswald:
Also plan on doing your bushings at the same time. Don't even think about skipping that step.

I second. I think both Clark and myself were unpleasantly surprised when we changed our bushings after we upgraded torsion bars.




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Paul
78SC Targa
Pelican Parts Members Gallery

[piperpilotduane]

I just replaced all the bushings in the suspension. The ride height was set and what I notice is alot of spring in the rear. The stock shocks dampen the ride. With the ride height set with my weight in the drivers seat its ok, but when I put my kids 100 lbs in the rear and my wife (1/2 my weight)in the passenger seat ride height drops 1" in the rear.
Sounds like 21 mm is the choice in the front. And I think I will go with 27 mm in the rear because 50% of the time I will have my family in the car and cannot stand it to sag in the rear. (Notice I did not put wife's weight, I've been married along time and know better!) Thank you all for your input.

If anyone has a set of adjustable spring plates and a set of t-bars for sale, e-mail me I will probobly do this in November.

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Duane
'73 914, '76 912E,
& '76 VW BUS (ALL 2.0L)

[david c.]

Duane,

I have a 912E and am presently going through the same process. I assume your 912E does not have a rear sway bar. It should, however, have the mounting points welded in place at the factory. I was going for a stiff street/useful autocross set up when I made my choices.

After a lot of thought, comparison and a little $compromise (student budget), here is what I bought:

1. New 21mm Weltmesiter front t-bars
2. 26mm rear t-bars from a low mileage 930 (rememeber a 912E is quite a bit lighter in the rear than any 911-hence I didn't go 27)
3. New 22mm front and rear Weltmeister adjustable sway bars
4. New Sway-A-Way adjustable spring plates (should help with your height issues between family and track)
5. New Bilstein Sports on all four corners
6. New 930/Turbo tie rods
7. New adjustable drop links

I'd say my total cost so far is under $1900.00 for everything above. This also includes the mounting kits for my sway bars. A 912E needs some additonal parts to install the sway bars.

The stuff is all in boxes for the winter project. I haven't decided on bushing choices yet, but I've learned this is a foolish time not to do this also.

I hope to arrive at a stiff set up that is tolerable on the street but will still be useful as my autocross/track skills evolve.

Have a good day!

David Cardone
Pittsburgh, PA