Is there a DIY tutorial on replacing axle seals?

[markmalin]

Hi all,

I did some searching in the forum and didn't seem to find what I was looking for. If I've done something stupid while searching, please excuse me - I'm new here

I just bought an '85 Carrera (my first) and the previous owner said the rear axle seals were leaking and gave me 2 new seals with the car. I'd like to tackle this in the next few weeks - can someone point me in the right direction? Perhaps there's a "how to" here on Pelican? (I don't have a Bentley's yet - may be able to borrow one from a friend, though.)

Thanks in advance.

respectfully,
Mark.

[Grady Clay]

Mark,
Welcome to the Pelican 911 Forum
You will find a lot of help here.


I need clarification on “rear axle seals”.
The rear wheel bearing has two seals but they are integral with the bearing assembly and not independently replaceable.

A common part needing attention are the boots at the Constant Velocity (CV) joints.
This leaks (throws) the heavy, usually black CV joint grease out.

Another related seal is the lip seal at the transmission axle flanges.
This leaks transmission oil.
If there are signs of a lot of oil, you should check the transmission oil level.

I hope this helps.

Best,
Grady

[markmalin]

Hi Grady,

Thanks Yes, sorry, I'm a little confused on the terminology. What I mean is the the seal at the transmission axle flanges. The previous owner said these are what's leaking. I may have a picture from the previous owner that I can post.

Yes, there is kind of a lot of leakage. From what I understand most of these cars leak anyway, but this seems like a lot. When I drive it, then park in the garage we're talking about an oil spot about the size of a the base of a coffee cup on the garage floor.

Can you help me understand how to check the trans level?

Also - this is unrelated and going to sound rather idiotic, but ... I can't figure out how to get the engine oil cap off! My buddy with an SC tried and he couldn't figure it out either. Seems you push in and twist (like a radiator cap), but it turns about 1/4 turn and that's it. I try to push in further, assuming there's a lip I'm trying to clear, but no dice. Advice would be helpful

Thanks!
Mark.

PS - attached picture. Red arrow is the seal I'm talking about (behind the CV boot). Green arrow is roughly where oil is collecting and dripping. I need to get under there with a paper towel to make sure it's trans fluid or not...hard to tell on the garage floor.

Originally Posted by Grady Clay

Mark,
Welcome to the Pelican 911 Forum
You will find a lot of help here.


I need clarification on “rear axle seals”.
The rear wheel bearing has two seals but they are integral with the bearing assembly and not independently replaceable.

A common part needing attention are the boots at the Constant Velocity (CV) joints.
This leaks (throws) the heavy, usually black CV joint grease out.

Another related seal is the lip seal at the transmission axle flanges.
This leaks transmission oil.
If there are signs of a lot of oil, you should check the transmission oil level.

I hope this helps.

Best,
Grady

[James Brown]

Looks like a 915, here is the procedure. Make sure that's transmission fluid leaking and not from the CV joints.

[markmalin]

This is great! Thank you very much

Mark.

[gregwils]

The flanges pull straight out once unbolted. You can use of block of wood to protect the case and pry them out with a screwdriver or similar tool. It's not difficult. You can tap the seals in with the same block of wood. The only issue you may face is that if the transmission is full, gear oil could seep out when you pull the seal. The seals are supposed to be installed dry. You could always jack (and properly support) once side of the car at a time to prevent fluid from seeping out, or just drain and replace. Your choice.

[universeman]

Team:

Working on this project. I just replaced driver side seal. It was a PITA to get out -- hardened like plastic and fused to the case...maybe they made them out of plastic back in the day? It was missing the little fins on its outer (sealing) edge, so either those burned off from heat/use, or the design of the new seals is better/superior.

Gently tapped the new seal in with a rubber mallet and used the old seal turned backward as a hitting surface. I saw some of the nifty PVC pull tools people are using to mate the seal into the race. Here's my question - wouldn't the axle flange itself pull the seal to the proper depth, assuming the flange is torqued to spec?

I could see how the flange spinning might be a bad thing if it's rubbing the seal. Or am I missing something?

Has anyone else had their seal harden up to near-plastic hardness? I bet this is the original, 30-yo seal...

[DRACO A5OG]

The flange must not touch the seal, Driver side is set 2-3MM below the surface vs at surface with P-side.