Question on Bilstein shocks

rnln · 10-26-2016, 10:15 AM

I've always read that there is a sport and heavy Duty. Now what is the different between B6 and B8. I have the feeling that B8 is stronger. Which one is better/recommended for 87-89?
Thanks guys.

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

According to Bilstein site: BILSTEIN B8 Performance Plus

It is an enhanced B6 for lowered vehicles vs standard and or euro height cars.

Google is your friend

rnln · 10-26-2016, 11:20 AM

So if I lowered my car below euro height, I should go with B8? Does that mean most people here have B8?

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

I have no idea. I went with b6 as recommended by Bilstein when I contacted them. I think b8 are going to make a very harsh ride for you. Yours is low but not dumped so I would stick to b6

Why don't you contact them?

rnln · 11:35 AM

Right now it is 25 1/4 front, 24 7/8 rear. I want to lower the rear a little more, maybe 24 3/4
I want to hear users' comments first before talking to them, then make decision.
Thanks.

suckho · 10-26-2016, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

According to Bilstein site:
It is an enhanced B6 for lowered vehicles vs standard and or euro height cars.

First, the "euro height" IS the standard height for Porsche, the US height is much higher than this standard. Also, Bilstein shocks are not only for Porsche, but they are selling parts for many other cars as well. I think they are not referring to Porsche ride height on that page but to any lowered suspension in general that may need stiffer shocks.

RichardNew · RichardNew's Garage

I use the B6 on my Boxster and I'm very pleased. Here's an explanation that Bilsteirn puts forth. I get the feeling that unless you've dropped the car the B6 units are what you want.

Here's a little more on basic shock technology.

Richard Newton

Steve@Rennsport · 10-26-2016, 02:31 PM

The difference between B6 and B8 shocks are valving and length. B8's are intended for lowered cars with higher spring rates.

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve@Rennsport

The difference between B6 and B8 shocks are valving and length. B8's are intended for lowered cars with higher spring rates.

Ding Ding, Winner Winner, Chicken Dinner.

Rnln, do you see where this is going? Yours is low but not track car low so go with the B6's

rnln · 10-26-2016, 04:16 PM

ok ok. I was planning to make "my car better than yours"

j/k I was hoping someone who have B8 on moderate lowed street car can come in and give personal comment

Thanks guys.

Tremelune · 10-26-2016, 05:13 PM

3.2 cars have the same "Euro" ride height worldwide:

1987 carrera pros & cons of lowering to European Height from stock?

Does anyone know if the B6/B8 shocks sold by Bilstein are the same design as they were from the 80s? There's no mention of what the valving "curve" looks like (linear/progressive/digressive, etc).

Consider having your shocks custom valved to match your height, weight, spring rate, roads you're usually on, and desired goals for driving. I have yet to do it myself, but from what I've read, it can greatly reduce the compromise between comfort and motion control. It might not even cost more, as long as you're willing to have your car off the road for the time it takes to ship the shocks around.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tremelune

3.2 cars have the same "Euro" ride height worldwide:

1987 carrera pros & cons of lowering to European Height from stock?

Does anyone know if the B6/B8 shocks sold by Bilstein are the same design as they were from the 80s? There's no mention of what the valving "curve" looks like (linear/progressive/digressive, etc).

Consider having your shocks custom valved to match your height, weight, spring rate, roads you're usually on, and desired goals for driving. I have yet to do it myself, but from what I've read, it can greatly reduce the compromise between comfort and motion control. It might not even cost more, as long as you're willing to have your car off the road for the time it takes to ship the shocks around.

all the b6 and b8 currently on the market use old style linear valving

hd aka b6 valving per Bilstein is front 130/76 rear 195/151, sport(rally) aka b8 is front 194/150 rear311/160, b8 club sport is front 160/161 rear 220/180

all these are rebound/compression force in N/10 @ piston velocity .52 m/s

Tremelune · 10-27-2016, 04:30 AM

That is great info. Is this on Bilstein's site or do you just compile info? The only thing I could find was a brochure PDF...

If I were in the market for shocks (and I kinda am), I wouldn't want to be buying 40-year-old tech over having the internals replaced with modern gadgetry. It's also almost certain that I don't know what is involved in revalving a set of old shocks, so...

Driven97 · 10-27-2016, 06:26 AM

Dug this up with a little search-fu:

Looks like Chuck dynoed both the sport and HD and chimed in here.

Yeah, that's old school linear with the fair assumption the product hasn't been updated in the meantime.

RichardNew · RichardNew's Garage

Some of my Bilstein shocks have been rebuilt a couple of times. I generally use Bilstein but a lot of independant shops do the same work.

Bilstein Rebuild Service

Richard Newton

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tremelune

That is great info. Is this on Bilstein's site or do you just compile info? The only thing I could find was a brochure PDF...

If I were in the market for shocks (and I kinda am), I wouldn't want to be buying 40-year-old tech over having the internals replaced with modern gadgetry. It's also almost certain that I don't know what is involved in revalving a set of old shocks, so...

You can have aftermarket Bilstein mono-tube shocks revalved for a very reasonable price by Bilstein San Diego and probably Elephant Racing. I had the Bilstein racing shocks on my 993 rebuilt when I bought them and had that done, a digressive valve stack takes some of the pain out of stiff shocks.

Driven97 · 10-27-2016, 09:18 AM

There's also a lot of race shops that have the equipment to rebuild & revalve Bilsteins, a Google search is only partially effective at finding them. If you've got a local racer's forum it might not hurt to join and ask where people get theirs done.

Valving is about 75% science / 25% art - it's not hard to follow a book, plug in a few number, and get something that works well. Some people seem to have a magic touch in building shim stacks that gets just a little better performance out of them. On the street though any close modern curve is going to be fine.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driven97

There's also a lot of race shops that have the equipment to rebuild & revalve Bilsteins, a Google search is only partially effective at finding them. If you've got a local racer's forum it might not hurt to join and ask where people get theirs done.

Valving is about 75% science / 25% art - it's not hard to follow a book, plug in a few number, and get something that works well. Some people seem to have a magic touch in building shim stacks that gets just a little better performance out of them. On the street though any close modern curve is going to be fine.

I agree that it's best to work w/ a knowledgeable shop for re valving and or most suspension modification. I'd heartily recommend Dan Jacobs up in Oxford Ct.