Anyone know how the power door lock actuators work?

[SpyderMike]

I gutted my power door lock system for a couple of reasons (complex and worked only sometimes, and I backdated my car and went with earlier chrome handles without switches). I now want to wire in a keyless locking system. I am trying to understand the actuators as I would like to keep them and use the door wiring in frunk harness as much as possible. It looks to me that they best fit a 5 wire with switch found here:

How to Wire Relays - Door Locks - 5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive

then again it could be something like this:

How to Wire Relays - Door Locks - Actuators / Reverse Polarity - Negative Switch/Trigger (b)

Looking at the schematic for the current system we see this:



Looks 5 wire with a switch. Since I can't find the schematic for the internals of the Porsche control box, then I have to look at this and see that a switch must be reversing polarity of power to the motor. Do I even need the switch wiring if I can do this with the new control box? Seems like I would just switch power and ground ti the actuator.

Anyone got any ideas here?

Thanks,
Mike

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

What model are you working on?

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by SpyderMike

I gutted my power door lock system for a couple of reasons (complex and worked only sometimes, and I backdated my car and went with earlier chrome handles without switches). I now want to wire in a keyless locking system. I am trying to understand the actuators as I would like to keep them and use the door wiring in frunk harness as much as possible. It looks to me that they best fit a 5 wire with switch found here:

How to Wire Relays - Door Locks - 5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive

then again it could be something like this:

How to Wire Relays - Door Locks - Actuators / Reverse Polarity - Negative Switch/Trigger (b)

Looking at the schematic for the current system we see this:



Looks 5 wire with a switch. Since I can't find the schematic for the internals of the Porsche control box, then I have to look at this and see that a switch must be reversing polarity of power to the motor. Do I even need the switch wiring if I can do this with the new control box? Seems like I would just switch power and ground ti the actuator.

Anyone got any ideas here?

Thanks,
Mike

Mike,


^^^^^
Here is a "snippet" from the factory manual.

I have pics of the control unit "inners",
but no CKT.

Sorry,

Try a Google search.

Best,

Gerry

[SpyderMike]

Dmitry, it is a 1985.

Gerry, will you post pictures of the innards of the control module? My feeble mind says that the switching portion of the actuator is just coordinating with the controller to determine which direction the controller drives the actuator. I should be able to bypass this with the new module and just hook up the motor power wires.

[SpyderMike]

Okay, with a little experimentation I figured it out. The Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator, when powered with +12VDC and the Green/Red wire grounded powers the actuator to lock the door. When you put +12VDC on the Green/Red wire and ground the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator, then the actuator is powered to unlock the doors. The other connections for the internal switch must just report the position back to the control module. I will not be using those.

The implementation of a modern remote keyless entry module was real easy given this. I just put +12VDC on the main input (red wire) to the module and the Violet and Violet/Black wires that are listed as #87 Normally Open (Input). I grounded the module black ground wire along with the White/Black and Brown/Black wires that are listed as #87A Normally Closed. I then connected the Blue/Black wire form the module to the Green/Red wire at the actuator and then the Green/Black wire from the module to the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator.

The control module has both Green/Black and Blue/Black wires to the actuator rest at ground when not in use. When you push the lock or unlock button on the remote, the control module puts +12VDC on the appropriate wire (Green/Black or Blue/Black) to move the actuator the appropriate direction. It then grounds both wires again after about a second.

I have not done my final wiring bundle as I might implement the horn honk feature. I want to make sure I am in the final configuration before I cut the unused wires. Not bad for $30.