Double nut the studs, use a propane torch to melt the thread locker. Worked for me.

Looks pretty darn nice in there!

...and the rods, rough measured and eye balled the Wrist Pin Bushings, all centered and both rod bearings and bushings on all seem to be within spec, remarkable. I will have shop verify and re-bush the wrist pin bushings.

All Rod bearings are worn, are all marked Porsche Part# 930-147-00

Main thrust bearing inner is definitely worn down :-(, measured below spec.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1482354218.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1482354504.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1482354504.JPG

Taking journal for inspection, polishing and Snout Repair :D

'Sad movies make me cry':(..So goes the song ay.

Jim, have you taken my suggestion and posted for 'Crowd Funding' yet?
'DRACO A5OG Inc.' ��

Oh Thank you Brother!

Not sad at all, infact, very happy I am finally learning what I wanted to for a long time now.

I was freaking out about the 915 re-build and prior to that, 964 Cam swap plus timing. With those under my belt, this "Black Art of the Engine Rebuild" is less terrifying. I was actually researching this past summer for a next Spring's Rebuild as I knew the miles were adding up, well fate had me move ahead of schedule. No biggy, so far not so bad news, everything is what was expected and I know which steps to take to insure a proper functioning DIY rebuild. If I were tracking or heavy into D.E's, she would have gone to a pro but for my use. I think I will be okay plus allot of help from my friends here and locally.

The most important thing is to take my time and listen to those that are more experienced. I was dreading spitting the case but glad I did, the IMS bearings were gone and Rod bearings appeared to be fretting, #1 Thrust Bearing worn down creating too much of a run out and un-even wear on #6 & #7 crank bearings ( this I attribute to the loose pully bolt that cause the Snout to wobble ).

I am truly having fun, I love this kind of stuff now, 10 years ago, hell no :D

Brother J is looks like things are moving along nicely.
I was wondering; what motor oil were you using and how often were your oil change intervals?

L

Brother L,

Here is her oil history, but I must include the air filter too:

Oil Unknown (maybe Mobil 1 or Castrol), when I purchased her at 156,000 in 2005
VR1 20w50 Conventional, first year of ownership
Brad Penn 20w50 for 2 years, felt more aggressive
VR1 until SUMMER 2016, switched back due to oil leaks, possibly the part synth blend of BP?, can't prove it but switching back stopped the leaks
DELO 400 15w40 after 964 cam swap and stuck with it because she was quieter and cooler running, allot, car felt lighter and quicker but that could be the cams.

Used cone filter until 2014, then back to oem Porsche box filter, cover cut open

Reason I mention the air filter, my journal had some course lines attributed to dirty oil or infrequent oil changes, I know the latter is not true for me but not sure about the PO and his maintenance regiment.

My experience with VR-1 is that it gets dirty quickly. Might have something to do with the amount of detergent, since it is racing oil.

True True

Case was pretty dirty and stained, but I did change the oil frequently since I hoarded cases when the sales occurred. :P Maybe Karrma got me for hoarding :-(

^^^

Hey Dracolio, are the bottom rows of headstuds on your engine Dilivar (kind of looks like they are the black coated variety in one of your pics)? If so, that's what "got you" with regard to the original problem - poor clamping over time, even if none of them are broken (I know you are familiar with that, however).

Hey Raw Knees, T :D ( I just got your call sign, RFLOL )

Yeap, sure were those notorious Time Bombs via magnet test. I was surprised none of them snapped on removal. Well I have 3 more to do once I get the Snap On tool so we shall see. The remarkable part is, the rest of them bolts came off by hand so loctite failed too, I guess after 186K miles.

Ha! Yep, a long (:eek:) story on my call sign that relates to years of fun banter in the Turbo forum (buncha' freaks over there, I tell ye' !!!).

On removing the studs, if you have any trouble with the Snap-on remover, a small pipe wrench works very well since you are not trying to preserve the studs. With a pipe wrench, you can grip the stud near the base (:eek:) if necessary, too.

Freaks with Turbos, nice :D

Ah so desu ne, small pipe wrench, great idea, I got one of those laying around :-)

Hey Frere Jim, what Snap-On tool are you needing?

No worries my Brother, It is coming in tomorrow, Merci Merci!

M10x1.5 Stud extractor btw. :D

So a word of Caution:

When tearing down the engine, even if you think it is light enough with crank and the two halves, IT IS NOT!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1482795648.JPG

This is what will happens when you try to remove the engine from the stand and use your legs to keep it from dropping to the ground. Luckily I had my moving blanket below, just in case. I had a choice, drop case or break my leg, guess what I chose. Luckily I only bruised, man this is going to take awhile to heal, ain't no spring chicken anymore.

I thought I was strong but smell alone does not cut it :eek: RFLOL

Step son, helped me put it back on the stand. Sucka was heavy.

So still waiting for a verdict on the Crank, Cylinders and Case. If Cylinders and Case needs work Ollies will take until February to finish :-(. Crank from Marine will be in next week.

Oh you poor sucker.

Dracholio, so dropping the engine on yer leg caused all those sparse, yet wiry, hairs to spring forth!?!? :eek:

:D

Ouuuch!!!��... Hey Bud!..Please take it a bit easier on yourself eh! We're all pullin for ya Jim! ��

Take care ay...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1483057227.JPG

Just picked up Crank and IMS, verified within spec, straight, trued snout and polished, $100!

Thank you Master KTL for the lead!