Rear suspension--what MUST I do while the engine is out?

[Jameel]

Been searching on this for a while, but haven't found an answer. I know about all the "while its out" lists, but what I'm looking for is a must-do while it's out regarding rear suspension.

I'm planning to refresh the rear suspension at some point down the road, but don't really want to "do it all" while the engine is out this winter. So say the plan is to redo the rear suspension next winter, is there anything I should do now, with engine out, that will make that job a lot easier? Not much experience with this aspect yet, but my instinct is telling me the trailing arm bushings are the ones to tackle now.

Then again, I dropped my 911 engine for the first time last month and it only took maybe 3 hours. Get up early on a Saturday and its out before breakfast. I guess dropping it again in a year to refresh the suspension wouldn't be that big of a deal...

[EdRogers]

Rear shocks? Everything is pretty accessible with the engine either way. But, that top nut is a pain sometimes!

[DRACO A5OG]

Clean & Re-pack CV joints, Cover with new gloves while waiting for re-install.

Oil up the flapper hinges and or adjust to insure proper operation.

[scottrx7tt]

The only thing suspension wise that would require an engine drop is replacement of the passenger side trailing arm bushing.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by scottrx7tt

The only thing suspension wise that would require an engine drop is replacement of the passenger side trailing arm bushing.

Ditto, but what a PITA

[rwest]

Hi Jameel,

I did my complete rear suspension with the engine in, the trailing arm bushings are a bit difficult to access and I thought I read that depending on which way the bolts/nuts were put in, it can be very hard.

If it was me I would be tempted to remove the rear trailing arms, clean them up and install new bushings were they mount to the body and also put new rear bearings on the hub end since pressing them in and out is much easier out of the car.

Best,
Rutager

[Jameel]

Thanks guys. So why only pass side trailing arm bushings?

I've got shocks on order, and those will definitely be going in now. CV's too.

So sounds like trailing arm bushing and rear wheel bearings...

[s5uewf]

Trailing arm bushings if they need it, and check fuel lines - easier to do now than later.
Engine sound pad replacement

[fanaudical]

Two things I wished I had done when rebuilding my engine and had everything out:

- Check/replace the tunnel fuel lines (near impossible with the engine in)

- Replace trailing arm bushings and swap in some adjustable spring plates

Access to these things with the engine installed is possible, but much easier when the engine is out.

[JabsZA]

My engine is out also, and although i have done everything that everyone has suggested when i redid my whole suspension and brakes - what i am going to do is weld in strut reinforcements (from Rebel racing) and i will also install new semi-solid engine and transmission mounts.

[rwest]

Might as well put new sway bar bushings in as well- pretty cheap.

Really read up on the rear bearing install. Been a couple years since I did mine and I almost forgot to put a part on before the bearings got pressed, think it was the brake dust shield?

On my bearings, I just used my leather tool- wallet! I paid a shop to pull and put new ones in- less than $200, seemed like a smart idea.

[scottrx7tt]

The bolt on the passenger side cannot be removed without it hitting the transmission. The one on the drivers side is removable without the transmission removal.

Originally Posted by Jameel

Thanks guys. So why only pass side trailing arm bushings?

I've got shocks on order, and those will definitely be going in now. CV's too.

So sounds like trailing arm bushing and rear wheel bearings...

[Trackrash]

Engine seal?

[juanbenae]

I'm considering installing trailing arm (TA) monoballs while the motor is being redone n out. it really comes to where do you start? when do you stop? when do you want to drive it again? if money were no object forget the last 3 questions.

if yir gunna untie the spring plates (SP) to remove the trailing arm to bench install the monoballs should we just not do SP bushings then too? bigger torsion bars (which I have currently after a trade)? rebuild the calipers while their off the trailing arm? how are the brake lines?

my project is a 75 I'm trying to figure out when & what is most important. it all comes down most time to,,, when do I want to drive it??? I know what I need to do, but determining the best sequence is nerve wracking...

t

[Jameel]

Originally Posted by juanbenae

I'm considering installing trailing arm (TA) monoballs while the motor is being redone n out. it really comes to where do you start? when do you stop? when do you want to drive it again? if money were no object forget the last 3 questions.

if yir gunna untie the spring plates (SP) to remove the trailing arm to bench install the monoballs should we just not do SP bushings then too? bigger torsion bars (which I have currently after a trade)? rebuild the calipers while their off the trailing arm? how are the brake lines?

my project is a 75 I'm trying to figure out when & what is most important. it all comes down most time to,,, when do I want to drive it??? I know what I need to do, but determining the best sequence is nerve wracking...

t

I'm sort of in the same boat, but I'm trying to be sensible. I was quite happy with the car before the head studs broke. I would have eventually refreshed a bunch of stuff, but not all at once. For me the really critical stuff is what should be done in relation to the engine getting rebuilt. New fuel lines? Absolutely. New rear end bushings? Not critical right now. What I'm really after here is stuff that will be a nightmare/impossible without an engine drop. Sounds like trailing arm bushings are really the only impossible things to do engine-in. But again, how hard is it to drop the engine? Not hard, or all that time consuming. So my original question is sort of becoming moot!

[juanbenae]

you don't mention the car year or particulars. age? miles? environment? if you were plenty happy with a Carrera/SC or the like before the motor work with no previous suspension work then consider what others have suggested with new front inserts and rear shocks. if billies you can have them rebuilt, an alignment and drive it come spring. it'll be improved noticeably.

if an SC or Carrera with the new shocks & inserts some new swaybar bushings are cheap & easy to install. or visit the elephant racing website, max your card(s) and drive faster in the fall...

[Jameel]

It's an 83 SC, in very good overall condition. 117k on the clock. I put 7000 miles on it this summer. No previous suspension work that I know of. I was planning to drive it for a couple years before tackling major systems, and even had it aligned a couple months ago (made a big difference.) Right now I'm thinking just stick to the engine and related stuff (fuel lines) in hopes that I can have it back on the road by spring. Then tackle the suspension next winter.

[juanbenae]

glad we got this all sorted out... happy new year!

[RichardNew]

Let's talk really stupid now. I have no real good explanation for why I did this other than "I Could"

[RichardNew]

I did this because I could. No other reason makes sense.

I could do this before I added the reinforcement. Actually Derek Bell could do that. I'm in the passenger seat.



Richard Newton
Living With a 911 for 26 Years