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scarceller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern MA
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Jeff, PM me your email address I'll send the doc

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taxi! View Post
Yes, my car is an '86, Al, and I'm just getting to the point in my ownership where I'm starting to want to learn about tuning the engine. I've been fortunate that the engine has run very well since I bought this car a few years ago, but I'm sure it could be better. So if you could send that document I'd be most appreciative.

Jeff

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Sal
1984 911 Carrera Cab M491 (Factory Wide Body)
1975 911S Targa (SOLD)
1964 356SC (SOLD)
1987 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible
Old 02-11-2017, 09:39 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Here is how I did mine. BTW, nice job on your install Taxi.


I chose to mount my sensor in the tail pipe. Couldn't weld my heat exchangers (aluminized), and I didn't think there was room on the inlet of the muffler.
It works just fine on the outlet!


I then ran the sensor wire from the sensor up through the engine seal where the original fuel line ran.


Then up and to the rear (actually front) of the engine compartment where the plug to the harness is. That wire runs down by the firewall following the fuel line. It then goes into the rear of the tunnel through an unused hole.


Then out of the tunnel in the smuggler's box and up to the gauge.

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'71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed
#56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF
Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage
Old 02-11-2017, 03:46 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911pcars View Post
There aren't many A-pillar mounting options. Here's an A-pillar gauge mount available on eBay. No drilling. The mount clamps onto the A-pillar profile; the gauge cup of choice attaches to it.



Sherwood
Brilliant! But I'd mount it down closer to the dash.

I dread the thought of anything high up that you could bump your head on.
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Old 02-11-2017, 07:16 PM
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Gordon,

Be aware that I have seen first hand differences between a sensor near the tail pipe outlet and one in the collector. The tailpipe readings will read 0.5 to as much as 1.0 AFR leaner! I see this all the time when a dyno operator puts the senor in the tail pipe. I then ask for it to be moved and we see true AFR data. I suspect this is because some fresh air is introduced back into the muffler because of sound wave pulses. Kind of the same reason you can see fuel atomized and floating above a carburetor on a hi-performance motor, how does fuel actually get outside the carb if the motor is at full load? This pulse theory is also at play in the exhaust. I suggest you try moving the senor to the collector or you could weld a bung on the inlet to the muffler instead of the outlet and put a plug in the outlet bung. I warn you here because you may tune that motor incorrectly, with the sensor as placed now you will likely see a false lean reading. I bet you are running significantly richer than the gauge is telling you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackrash View Post
Here is how I did mine. BTW, nice job on your install Taxi.


I chose to mount my sensor in the tail pipe. Couldn't weld my heat exchangers (aluminized), and I didn't think there was room on the inlet of the muffler.
It works just fine on the outlet!


I then ran the sensor wire from the sensor up through the engine seal where the original fuel line ran.


Then up and to the rear (actually front) of the engine compartment where the plug to the harness is. That wire runs down by the firewall following the fuel line. It then goes into the rear of the tunnel through an unused hole.


Then out of the tunnel in the smuggler's box and up to the gauge.

__________________
Sal
1984 911 Carrera Cab M491 (Factory Wide Body)
1975 911S Targa (SOLD)
1964 356SC (SOLD)
1987 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible
Old 02-12-2017, 06:07 AM
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Never really cared for any option I have seen for mounting the gauges so I made my own to fit where the ash tray used to live. I covered it in vinyl that came very close to matching the existing knee pad.

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Old 02-12-2017, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarceller View Post
Gordon,

Be aware that I have seen first hand differences between a sensor near the tail pipe outlet and one in the collector. The tailpipe readings will read 0.5 to as much as 1.0 AFR leaner! I see this all the time when a dyno operator puts the senor in the tail pipe. I then ask for it to be moved and we see true AFR data. I suspect this is because some fresh air is introduced back into the muffler because of sound wave pulses. Kind of the same reason you can see fuel atomized and floating above a carburetor on a hi-performance motor, how does fuel actually get outside the carb if the motor is at full load? This pulse theory is also at play in the exhaust. I suggest you try moving the senor to the collector or you could weld a bung on the inlet to the muffler instead of the outlet and put a plug in the outlet bung. I warn you here because you may tune that motor incorrectly, with the sensor as placed now you will likely see a false lean reading. I bet you are running significantly richer than the gauge is telling you.
Thanks for the feedback. Actually, I am struggling with an overly rich situation at present. The reading on the gauge in the picture, was during warm up.
I am able to get around 12.5 - 13 to 1 at idle. Any leaner, it won't run.

The real issue is at cruise. I'm at 10.8 - 11.2 on the freeway.

I've come to the conclusion that it must be my emulsion tubes. My thinking is that the main jets are coming in too soon. Nothing I do to the idles makes any difference on the freeway. At full throttle it's 12.5 to 1.

Thanks for the advise.

Edit: I put a two foot long hose to extend the exhaust and it made no difference. So more experimenting to do.
Also the emulsion tubes were a bust. No change. So now it's time to frits with the idle air correctors. Bummer.
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'71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed
#56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF
Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage

Last edited by Trackrash; 02-12-2017 at 05:46 PM..
Old 02-12-2017, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarceller View Post
Jeff, PM me your email address I'll send the doc
PM sent. Thanks, Al.
Old 02-12-2017, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackrash View Post
Here is how I did mine. BTW, nice job on your install Taxi.


I chose to mount my sensor in the tail pipe. Couldn't weld my heat exchangers (aluminized), and I didn't think there was room on the inlet of the muffler.
It works just fine on the outlet!


I then ran the sensor wire from the sensor up through the engine seal where the original fuel line ran.


Then up and to the rear (actually front) of the engine compartment where the plug to the harness is. That wire runs down by the firewall following the fuel line. It then goes into the rear of the tunnel through an unused hole.


Then out of the tunnel in the smuggler's box and up to the gauge.

Thanks, Gordon. I constantly feel that my car and I are somewhat inferior to the many beautiful vehicles and smart minds on this forum, so I appreciate the compliment. Your engine compartment looks really clean.

Jeff
Old 02-12-2017, 11:22 AM
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I'm in the midst of this same project this weekend. I will too be mounting it in the no op clock hole. made the retaining bezel today by hole sawing a nylon type cutting board and gluing the pieces together. the final front facing layer was a piece of plastic file divider thing I had laying around that worked nicely with the bit of texture it provided & being black. winning!


will use the old clock rubber sleeve deal to retain the bezzle puck


went to a buddy of mines buddy's house last night for bung welding fun & games. here's our work on my SSIs. will only be monitoring one bank but went ahead and put them on both sides.


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Old 02-12-2017, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanbenae View Post
I'm in the midst of this same project this weekend. I will too be mounting it in the no op clock hole. made the retaining bezel today by hole sawing a nylon type cutting board and gluing the pieces together. the final front facing layer was a piece of plastic file divider thing I had laying around that worked nicely with the bit of texture it provided & being black. winning!


will use the old clock rubber sleeve deal to retain the bezzle puck


went to a buddy of mines buddy's house last night for bung welding fun & games. here's our work on my SSIs. will only be monitoring one bank but went ahead and put them on both sides.


Looks good nice TIG welding.......also smart to put bungs in on both sides while you are at it. Also smart to get it as close to the head as possible.

You could hook up a toggle switch to from one side to the other....OR you could put in one of these:




and it gathers data from both sides that you can play back later.
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Last edited by dicklague; 02-12-2017 at 05:25 PM..
Old 02-12-2017, 05:23 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #30 (permalink)
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yes on as close as possible w/o having the sensor interfere with lower valve cover removal!

I was going off memory in placement on the circumference & went conservative, closer to 9 o'clock than noon.

just met the welder chopper-jim last night. great guy with a very set up shop in his garage where he makes his living doing Harley things. as an old VW guy he loved the fact I was going to carbs, so I had to promise him a ride when the motor's done...

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78SC PRC Spec911 (sold 12/15) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7I6HCCKrVQ
Now gone: 03 996TT/75 slicklid 3.oL carb'd hotrod
15 Rubicon JK/07.5 LMM Duramax 4x/86 Ski Nautique Correct Craft
Old 02-12-2017, 05:41 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #31 (permalink)
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