Outer CV Joint-Need Lesson

[Uwon]

1986 911 mechanically based Hot Rod. I've done most things myself on this car but never the CV joints,...until now.
Searched this forum for help but can't find anything specific addressing my issue.
I got the half shaft out and the inner CV disassembled.
The outer (wheel side) CV is another matter. How do you take it apart?



Is the cover on the half shaft side press fitted or has it been clamped on permanently? The PET for the "86 does not really correspond with what I have.
Help. Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Johan

[chris_seven]

Just gently tap of the steel gaiter mounting plate this a small drift.

It isn't clamped just a little tight.

[Jesse16]

I'm sure you can tap or bang it off but how do you get it back on and assure it still gets sealed reasonably tight? The boot does not extend over this joint. Maybe some RTV and make sure its very clean ?? Seems if this isn't extremely tight it would leak grease and let dirt in.
When I rebuilt mine, I was told that best you can do is clean this end via many-many fill and dumps of solvent along with movement. I was simply trying to clean best as possible after a boot tear and repaired using our host's replacement boot kit. I don't remember anyone suggesting disassembly of this joint for this exact reason. Many just give up and get a new whole axle assy.. If you find success removing and putting back on, please post that experience.

[chris_seven]

There seal should be between of the gaiter mounting plate and the joint faces not the outer diameter of this part.

You need to be sure it is re-assembled with the three 'moon plates' or the mounting plate won't pull down flat and it will leak.

You shouldn't need RTV or any other sealant but clearly you don't hit it hard enough to deform the basic shape.

They are just a slightly tight fit unless they have been damaged when they will need replacing.

We always use a good quality non-melting CV grease which will also reduce the possibility of leaks. Bel Ray CV Grease or Swepco 101 are suitable.

[Uwon]

Well, tried that. Just ended up with a mauled gaiter. Damn.
Johan

[Jesse16]

Good point about the gaiter face vs the OD being the seal. I have one of these needing rebuild (new boots) on my shelf so was interested in doing a better job. Fully apart is much preferred to clean.
So no happiness tapping off the gaiter, eh Johan ? Was it really tight ? Doesn't look like much of a lip to tap against. Did you try prying like taking off a paint can lid ?
Can you actually purchase just this part somewhere ?

[chris_seven]

Theynormally come off without too much trouble.

These guys sell gaiter kits in the UK throw the grease away and the photograph is Generic.

PORSCHE 911 3.2 INNER BOOT KIT-GAITER-CV BOOT KIT-DRIVESHAFT BOOT KIT-BOOTKIT | eBay

[Uwon]

Jesse, the can opener approach was tempting and probably would have been satisfying if I knew I could get a replacement and which I cannot find on PP or any of other after market supplier. Did not try Porsche.
Chris, it should have come off by all accounts but like most things 40 years old and with 427,000 km it was probably due for a full replacement. When I subsequently found a wiggle in the rear bearing and a bit of noise (whether real or perceived), I said sc*w it and ordered new complete half shaft assemblies and rear bearings.
Seems that anything that I did not completely refurbish when building the RST has come back to haunt me. Save for the trani which is currently out of the car to be rebuilt, I cannot think of anything else that hasn't been replaced or rebuilt. Sleeping better tonight!
Cheers,
Johan

[chris_seven]

CVs are not too badly priced and if you buy genuine Lobro they are supplied with new gaiters.

I would suggest using either Unbrako of Holo-krome Bolts and new Schnorr washers when you bolt them back on

[KTL]

The outer CV joint flange/tin is crimped on and sealed with an o-ring. So it's not something that comes apart easily. Ends up being mangled when you try to drive it off with a drift.

I recall years ago here on Pelican we discussed this and some guys came up with a solution to drill & tap the CV to accept small socket head screws. They removed the cap by carefully cutting it off between the crimped location and the o-ringed area. Careful patient cutting with a Dremel cutoff wheel is all you need, nothing fancy.

88-diamondblue covered the servicing of the later style Carrera axle very well and in post #60 shares another thread he started about servicing the friction welded outer CV joint. Other guys chimed in and shared their workaround to save the outer boot flange

Carrera CV Boot Replacement

Here's the direct link to the thread showing the disassembly of the outer CV joint and boot flange Update Carrera CV Boot replacement Notice the fix that burgermeister came up with. His recollection of an older thread is the same as mine- someone else showed us the way but we can't find the original thread! He shares a nice solution to screwing the cap on.

Also notice within that thread Josh Smith's post #11 provides a link to a nice Rennlist thread showing the same process.

[Uwon]

^^^thank you KTL. Always amazed at the brain trust on this forum. And having read all the referenced threads I'm glad I just ordered two new half shaft assemblies (amazingly delivered overnight). Now I know how to rebuild the old ones which I'll do sometime in the distant future when time permits.
Resourcing the old threads will undoubtedly soon help some fellow Pelican.
Cheers,
Johan