3.2 Engine build ideas please

[JamesUK]

Hello all,

So at some point I will need to have the stock 3.2 US motor rebuilt and I started looking at going to a 3.4/.3.5...well turns out that's a lot of $$$. So is a 3.6.

I'm hoping that on this site I can find some ideas of a nice 3.2 build that might get me what im looking for without the $$$$$, maybe just $$$

So what is it I am looking for?

CA Smog
91 RON pump gas
Daily driver, So I'm looking for lower end power and toque WITHOUT 10,000 mile rebuilds.

Yer that's about it. Thanks in advance. If anyone has already built this type of motor Id love to see a build sheet and dyno runs if you have them.

[Rodsrsr]

If possible, I would rebuild it using the existing P/C's. The cost for new P/C's is exorbitant, and the gains are minimal. A change in cams with a chip and free flowing exhaust will really wake it up. Also, these motors are simply too expensive to overhaul just for the sake of it. They last an extremely long time if well maintained, so unless there is an issue like a low cylinder, broken head stud, ect, a rebuild may not be needed. Its not a small block Chevy.

[JamesUK]

Well it already has north of 200k miles on it and 1 broken head stud. Like I said its a dally driver so it will need this work done soon...ish. I just want to have a good idea what to do and the budget ready to pay for it.

[darrin]

Can't a broken head stud be addressed without a complete engine rebuild?

Common reason for 3.2's requiring rebuilds is excessive oil consumption due to failing/faulty valve guide seals -- how's your oil consumption? If over 1k miles per quart, you might well consider the less-is-more approach here.

Since you need to be CA Smog legal, not too much you can do on the exhaust side -- it might be good to discuss your project with Sal Carceller (scarceller on pelican), he's developed an interesting MAF/injector/chip combo that simultaneously addresses several issues suffered by older 3.2 engines (failing afm wiper, worn out injectors and less-than-optimal factory chip tuning) Sal also has thoughts on cam combos/etc.

[Jesse16]

I would rebuild totally stock and maybe add one of the newer cams ( I did not ). Cam only helps at high RPM's at track I think. If its running good you'll likely only need a typical complete kit of parts. All new rubber, chains/ramps, rings, hoses, gaskets, seals, injectors, rocker seals, etc. I did my motor at 170 k and have put another 100k on it so far. Still runs great with no leaks and typical small puff of smoke after sitting. Plenty of fun and I could go cross country tomorrow! Very reliable. I did get a Wong chip and cat bypass since no smog where I live. Maybe a clutch while out if that's a concern.
Like was said above, if my wallet allowed I might now strongly consider modernizing the computer and electronics per Sal's work or similar. I would love to not have spark plug wires or a 30 year old computer under my seat and barn door AFM.

[stlrj]

If it were mine I would fix the stud, do the valve guides and Steve Wong chip it for low end torque.


Cheers,

Joe

[Quicksilver]

If you are replacing the P&Cs there isn't much difference between the stock cylinders and a 3.4 or 3.5 set so you might rethink that.

The big question on how to proceed is: How you use it?
CA smog is a big part of how you use it so you are limited in what you can do if the intended usage is more, MORE, MORE power.

Power increases come very simply from pumping more air/fuel mixture through the motor. You can increase the RPM, compress the intake charge, and/or increase displacement.
- Increasing the RPM range for power will require new cams, increased intake size, increased exhaust size, and a serious remap of the chip to make sure it passes smog. You will want to look at new rod bolts at a minimum and most likely upgraded rods.
- Compressing the intake charge means turbo or supercharging. To get a turbo past CA smog is basically a case of put in a whole turbo motor with the CIS and everything. If you are supercharging I'm not certain if it is possible to get it past CARB. Either way we are talking about a serious wheelbarrow full of cash.
- Increasing the displacement is pretty easy. Bigger P&Cs will give you quite a jump. You can add some cam without hurting emissions too. (964 cams at minimum) 1-5/8" headers/heat exchangers will be needed for midrange and above and you will want a chip. Getting the heads dual plugged will get you some improvements and that will allow you to run higher compression and a bit less advance at the same time.

----------------
For my own engine project I'm going 3.5l with a raised redline. Raising the redline will cost more than the displacement increase but I'll get extra power and retain the long life.

[Rodsrsr]

Originally Posted by Quicksilver

If you are replacing the P&Cs there isn't much difference between the stock cylinders and a 3.4 or 3.5 set so you might rethink that.

The big question on how to proceed is: How you use it?
CA smog is a big part of how you use it so you are limited in what you can do if the intended usage is more, MORE, MORE power.

Power increases come very simply from pumping more air/fuel mixture through the motor. You can increase the RPM, compress the intake charge, and/or increase displacement.
- Increasing the RPM range for power will require new cams, increased intake size, increased exhaust size, and a serious remap of the chip to make sure it passes smog. You will want to look at new rod bolts at a minimum and most likely upgraded rods.
- Compressing the intake charge means turbo or supercharging. To get a turbo past CA smog is basically a case of put in a whole turbo motor with the CIS and everything. If you are supercharging I'm not certain if it is possible to get it past CARB. Either way we are talking about a serious wheelbarrow full of cash.
- Increasing the displacement is pretty easy. Bigger P&Cs will give you quite a jump. You can add some cam without hurting emissions too. (964 cams at minimum) 1-5/8" headers/heat exchangers will be needed for midrange and above and you will want a chip. Getting the heads dual plugged will get you some improvements and that will allow you to run higher compression and a bit less advance at the same time.

----------------
For my own engine project I'm going 3.5l with a raised redline. Raising the redline will cost more than the displacement increase but I'll get extra power and retain the long life.

New 3.4 P/C's new rods, twin plug heads, re-map ign, headers, cams and your in over 20k, with an unassembled motor thats good for a whopping 275-290 hp, which is less than most factory cars of today. Total waste of money...

[emcon5]

Originally Posted by Quicksilver

If you are replacing the P&Cs there isn't much difference between the stock cylinders and a 3.4 or 3.5 set so you might rethink that.

To be clear, he is talking price difference, not performance difference.

964 cams and a displacement increase and a chip are about as far as you can go with a 3.2 and safely pass CA smog. The stock HEs and a pre-muffler instead of a cat should still work, properly sized headers would be better, but at great expense and potentially a hassle at smog check time. You would need to swap the cat back in every two years, but that is only a few bolts and ~30 min. You could pass without a cat, I did on my SC with SSIs, because the smog check guy didn't know what he was looking at, but that is not something that can be counted on.

The problem you can have is on higher compression engines with 98mm bores, you kind of need twin plug, because the spark plug is off to one side, and the piston dome can get in the way of the flame propagation. Steve at Rennsport had an article that talked about this on his site, but I don't see it now. If the piston dome is designed with one plug in mind, like the Max Moritz, then single plug will work, provided the compression is reasonable, I would say under ~9.5:1.

[scarceller]

964 cams need at least 10.5:1 compression to get the most from them. Sure they will work at 9.8:1 but you won't get the most from them. The 964 cam closes the intake valve about 7-9 degrees later then the 3.2 stock cam, using the 964 cam reduces dynamic compression by a bit. Do your homework on cam choice and compression ratio, not understanding this can really waste a lot of money.

[Trackrash]

Draco seems happy with his 3,4 build.
Part Trois: 3.4L Build, The Journey

[captain hook]

Having just done this. Mine is euro 3.2. Just reseal what you open. Replace the headstuds paint powdercoat tins n stuff will your doing the engine stuff. I did light flywheel /clutch as well. Ssi n dansk muffler. Heads? Condition? . Put it back together and drive it. Imo. And what I've done/working on is lighten the car. Pull what's not needed. Dial in the car as whole. Trying make na hp with these. Is a waste of time. Just have rock solid reliable motor.