The Queen customizes her 3.2

[echecsqueen]

What is a p clip?

[ian c2]

For holding tube in position .
You’ll want 1/4” insulated p-clips to fasten it down to existing fixture points .

[ian c2]

[echecsqueen]

Thanks Ian
p-clamps...knew I needed something to fix the tubing in place but didn't know what to ask for - thanks.

I like the red and the pink

I have some subtle side graphics and accents in red.

[ian c2]

If you want to “visualize” mods like that before you pay for the real thing , I recommend plasti-dip .
A quick clean with ipa before you mask and spray it on will make it easily removable once the $10 experiment is over .

More layers/thicker paint makes it easier to pull off , so don’t be scared of blasting it on .

[ian c2]

Another thing I’ve been thinking about for a long time , but never have got round to doing yet ...

Any hole or blank that “needs filling” could use a volume/tone knob from a later les Paul .
Fender knobs look a little old , but certain Gibson knobs would “blend” whilst still have a certain uniqueness .

The one on your driver foot-well is a prime example , if you used the type pictured below on one on my guitars .

I looked at doing it for a subwoofer gain control knob in a 964 years ago , but the system balanced perfect and need no adjustment .



Easily epoxied onto any pot or pull switch that isn’t the right size for a straight fit .

Or if you need a 2 or 3 pole switch , the “treble/lead” circle thing around the switch on a les-Paul could be used to add a cool touch ?

Here’s the switch cover .




Would it be too much to use an humbucker fitted with rare-earth magnets to use as one of them new-style magnetic iPhone holders ?

Probably ...

[echecsqueen]

No! it would be very appealing.

[Tremelune]

They still sell Tab??

[Charles Freeborn]

Fun interior! Way to go making it your own.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by echecsqueen

Today was 80 and overcast - finally a respite from the heat.


This really bothers me...any idea how to clean all of this hard tar like substance off? Any idea why it might be there or what sins it is covering? Do these need to be repaired or replaced? What should they look like? Photo?




Any and all thoughts are welcome

Queen feeling good.

Don't remove that tar goo! It is put on by the factory. If you decide to clean it off to look for damage or rust or something, get some new goo. It helps seal up the suspension. The top of the shock will leak water into the trunk when you hit a water puddle. The goo helps seal it up and keep the interior dry.

For alignments, just heat it with a heat gun to soften it up and then you can change settings. It is ugly, but it supposed to be there.

[echecsqueen]

Originally Posted by Tremelune

They still sell Tab??

yep....probably kept it in a vault with the NOS porsche parts...my guilty pleasure...

[echecsqueen]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

Don't remove that tar goo! It is put on by the factory. If you decide to clean it off to look for damage or rust or something, get some new goo. It helps seal up the suspension. The top of the shock will leak water into the trunk when you hit a water puddle. The goo helps seal it up and keep the interior dry.

For alignments, just heat it with a heat gun to soften it up and then you can change settings. It is ugly, but it supposed to be there.

I hear you, but with all the cracks, I doubt this goo is doing anything. I can imagine a much neater sealant application.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by echecsqueen

I hear you, but with all the cracks, I doubt this goo is doing anything. I can imagine a much neater sealant application.

Heat it up and smooth it out to achieve a nice look.

[echecsqueen]

Sounds like tomorrows project!

[ian c2]

It doesn’t really need that much .
In fact , it needs none at all ...

There are much better modern solutions that can be used instead .
Think about it ... no modern cars look like they’ve have the sealant put on like roofer’s apprentice tar !!

For an easy cosmetically clean solution , I’d look at heating it up and forcing it in position around the strut top then cleaning the rest of the area before fitting a plastic top-mount cap .

Something like this ....




Btw , the tube cutters you used will have forced a smaller diameter where you cut it .
It should really be reamed out .

But your thick cable will soon make work of the soft copper ...

Worth bearing in mind should you ever decide to use tube as a cable conduit though , as the un-reamed end will cut into wire insulation .

Once you’ve got the copper straitened out and in its final position , measure it and shoot me an iso and I’ll bend you one in 316

[echecsqueen]

Originally Posted by ian c2

It doesn’t really need that much .
In fact , it needs none at all ...

There are much better modern solutions that can be used instead .
Think about it ... no modern cars look like they’ve have the sealant put on like roofer’s apprentice tar !!

For an easy cosmetically clean solution , I’d look at heating it up and forcing it in position around the strut top then cleaning the rest of the area before fitting a plastic top-mount cap .

Something like this ....




Btw , the tube cutters you used will have forced a smaller diameter where you cut it .
It should really be reamed out .

But your thick cable will soon make work of the soft copper ...

Worth bearing in mind should you ever decide to use tube as a cable conduit though , as the un-reamed end will cut into wire insulation .

Once you’ve got the copper straitened out and in its final position , measure it and shoot me an iso and I’ll bend you one in 316

Wow...thanks!

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Queenie, I removed the hardened, strut top tar using an air hammer and chisel bit (carefully) - I didn't add any other type of sealer when done and I've never seen a water in that area (including when driving in the rain). I'm not saying there is no way that water can enter there, but it really isn't a problem.

That tar garbage was just one of many dumba ideas from the Porsche factory boyz.

[echecsqueen]

I don't have an air hammer but do have heat gun and access to cryo spray. I am going to tackle this project soon. I have 4 days off starting tomorrow and plan to get a lot done...
1988
p clamps
remove tar mess
insulate AC everything
re - pull door panel to fix window (again...ughh)

1966
install headliner
rear glass install
finish dash install
soundproofing (I already have measured and cut out all the pattern pieces)
place carpeting (already made and fitted)

now that I have committed to the above in writing ...the pressure to achieve is on!!

[echecsqueen]

Most of today was devoted to tilda but I did get a few things done on Frogger.
Installed the P-clamps to stabilize the pull cable housing (copper)
insulated the smuggler box
swapped out some of the AC vent conduit

[Rawknees'Turbo]

RawHands'Non-Turbo, I wonder where you got that insulation idea from?!?!

Speaking of which, and with regard to your low/strange airflow into the cabin situation, did you happen to check the accordion-style air hose that connects the evaporator outlet pipe/duct (on top, back side of the evaporator box) to the main, a/c air distribution plenum . . . it is a short section of flexible pipe/hose that is fairly large diameter. My original one looked intact when installed, but when I removed it to remove the evaporator housing, found that it was full of tears that were allowing much of the cooled air to escape into the trunk. You can use appropriately sized SCAT tubing there if you need to replace it (as per our other conversation).