well,my story was like this i have had in my 911 1985 964 windshield since 1998 it was sitting in with 964 seal.Mind you sitting ,since i was in LA and there it never rained;-)))) i did not care how tight it was..until i got my 911 to Europe and i drive in Prague in cobble stone street changed my mind right away..i thought my windshield will papp out on several occasions;-))
So ,i got older very nice windshield from 1988 911 and tried to install it with 3 different product suppliers seal.That is in period of 3-4 years..never happy ..when it rained water would come in...So finally i said to my self screw this and purchased the original 964 from Porsche for more then 300 euros.This seal was actually pre shaped in the cornes very nicely...have not used 3M sealant..

and here it is how it went...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1583346410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1583346410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1583346410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1583346410.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1583346410.jpg

since i had a practice it was one man job about 30 minutes..
Ivan

still..i would love to have, if URO will make 964 seal ,one of theirs for the next job..

Corona Project
 

So my 40 year old gasket was cracked in about 30 places and my wind shield also had a 2 inch crack in one corner.

Time to replace in 1978 911SC Targa.
Ordered nice new Sigla glass made in Finland from KoolKatzAutoGlass and the URO gasket from PP which I choose because of the wider outer flange lips.

I used the following tools and did the job myself.
1. Blaster Silicone Spray Lubricant
2. CRL7711 Windshield Sealant- bead applied between outer glass and gasket just before trim piece is reinstalled
3. 16ft of 4.5mm lawnmower pull start rope
4. One flat edge plastic trim tool for slipping the gasket flange lips out
5. One rubber head mallet- tap tap tap all around but not too hard.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1595615062.jpg

The trick for me was lots of silicone spray. It made the gasket very flexible and slippery and to set the bottom window edge first and rope in about 12-16 inches then the top edge and rope in 12-16 inches on the top.
Then work the corners by hand and rope the corners last.

I had to set it in three times but the third time was perfect.
First time one corner trim piece popped out. Remove windshield and reinstall trim and rope.
Second time the windshield was maybe 1.5mm off center and I had a small flange gap in the driver side corner. Remove windshield and reinstall rope.
Third time perfectly centered.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1595615390.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1595615459.jpg

If you have any corner gaps with this gasket, then your window is not centered.Take it out and try again.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1595615504.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1595615545.jpg

Nice morning project.

edit: Now I need to clean up all the mess on the trim and glass

I have found a good DYI way of installing the windshield and it works great, install the seal and trim as normal but now install the 14 gauge wire in the seal as you would the nylon rope put the modified suction clamp in the middle of the windshield mounted vertical just bellow the inside mirror so you can get a good hold of it, now use the other suction clamp in the middle of the out side of the windshield to place it in the correct position on the vehicle now use the modified ratcheting clamps in each corner of the windshield and clamp it until the seal is up against the body if the seal look like it is centered good enough go inside the vehicle and pull on the suction clamp and then start to pull on the wire about 6-12 inches at a time going left side to right until it is out of the seal this makes it a one man job, pics included on the clamps, the suction clamps have the center nub cut off so it will work on the curved glass and the rubber insulation on the ratcheting clamp are mounted with gorilla tapehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602214777.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602214777.jpg

So I have the updated version of the URO windshield seal and it's allowing small rivers of water to run into my car.

Has anyone else (other than Ivan) had any experience with a 964 seal?
I'd love to lose the metal trim when I buy a new seal.

I'm also in the market for a new windshield. Hoping to avoid Porsche as the local dealer is part of my least favorite dealership chain, so I'd appreciate it if anyone can point me in the right direction.

Good freaking luck......URO....snicker.

I just installed the new wider URO seal on my 1987 911 coupe and couldn't be happier. I tried to leave a review on the PP parts section but couldn't figure it out. Great product.

Installed it dry. Took a few attempts. The secret was to use silicone spray as others have mentioned. Easy with the spray.

Hi Joe, back in August we offered to send you part(s) at no charge to reimburse you for having to replace those two 6V fog light bulbs you received ~20 years ago. That offer still stands, just let us know.

Hmmm, did you use sealant? What was the condition of the glass and body contact areas, clean and smooth? Did water come in from rain, or a jet from a garden hose? How long after installation (did the rubber have time to conform to the car)? Did the car spend any warm days in the sun (which would aid rubber movement) before water testing?

No sealant.
Glass was used, but not cracked or damaged.
Body contact areas had just been refreshed.
Rain. I don't wash this car very often.
~1.5 years. (unsure of metric equivalent)
I would say it's been in the sun a few times since April 2020 when I installed the windscreen. ~16k miles clocked since then. (25750 km)

The seal pulls away from the body at the lower corners. I can send you a pic or I can post it here. LMK

URO..just and up date question ..no news about you making seal for 1989 and up without molding ,yet?
thanx

It seems the windshield seal is out of stock and NLA. Any reason for that? Are you working on a new version?

Geez. So much ado about windshield installs. So scary to so many. For the rest this job is, or can be, a snap.

1). Use no sealant
2). Use the Porsche factory gasket.
3). Remove windshield and clean up surfaces. You can cut it out, or just push it out. You would be surprised how easy it just pushes out.
4). Put the glass on sawhorses and use the glass as a template to bend/reshape the metal trim. The trim has to have the same shape as the outside of the glass.
5). Put the gasket on the glass.
6). Put the trim into the gasket. The part of the trim which penetrates the gasket has a little hook on the edge that does furthest into the gasket. Inside the gasket, there is a cutout for this hook edge. The trim hook has to engage with the gasket in this way everywhere along the gasket. When you think you are done, run your finger along the outer edge of the trim where it meets the gasket. Everywhere, the gasket should be sucked up against the trim. If the trim and gasket are failing to engage somewhere, you can feel it.
7). Put the rope in the gasket, overlapping the rope at the bottom edge of the assembly where the gasket will meet the dash.
8). Use a little lube, sparingly, on the gasket lip which will be pulled into the car.
9). Set the assembly in place and rope it in while putting pressure on the glass from the outside. A helper can be, well, helpful here but this can be done by one person.

^^^exactly. Probably one of the easiest projects to do on our cars. Not much fiddling needed.

Yup. Getting the trim bent/shaped correctly, especially in the corners, and then getting the hook/lip of the trim to properly engage with the gasket....those are the keys to success.

One more thing, and this is important: Front windshield....piece of cake. I will NEVER EVER do another rear glass install. I think I'd pay a thousand dollars to have it done, if I had to.

Why is the rear glass so much more difficult?

dho

The defroster wiring for one thing. You haven't lived until you go through installing Targa rear glass!

Yup, the defroster wiring. Also, it is just VERY difficult to get the top edge of the glass into the frame. The gasket has to bend way back. The bottom edge of the glass wants to pop out. It probably took me eight tries over a week's time, using 1-2 assistants, to finally get the glass in place and it still looks wonky. But it does not leak.

And BTW, you have to be REALLY careful with the electrical connections in the glass. They oxidize and get brittle. It would be easy to destroy the defrost circuit in the glass. Wiring has to snake through passages in the gasket, and through holes you will need to cut.

I'll never do it again. In every major city there is a guy who can do these. Find that guy.

I suppose everyone has a reason of their own. I got drawn to this thread because of the updated design of the windshield seal. My windshield seal doesn't fit at all in the left hand upper corner. I have a receipt from the PO that states an OEM seal was used. Yet the fitment is poor and the road noise is annoying.

Someone advised me to use a mallet and block and tap the trim out but this didn't do much. Hence my attempt to source the new design. However, it's NLA at our host and any vendor I can find through Google.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...63823f9dfb.jpg

This fitment problem is not caused by the gasket. It is caused by the trim. This is why I suggest making sure the trim is bent/shaped properly. I suggest using the glass as a template for checking/adjusting the trim contour. If the trim were poking a bit further out toward that corner, the gasket would be covering the gap. When these assemblies are fitting correctly, there is no need for sealant. Your gasket is not waterproof due to the fitment problem. If it fit properly, it would be waterproof.