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Thanks for the warnings on the rear glass install!
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Thanks for the reply Superman. Would you suggest I remove the windshield, make sure the trim lines up and then reinstall with this windshield seal?
I still have no clue why the URO is out of stock everywhere, but at least I could try and make the current seal work if the trim is to blame. |
I would say yes, if that seal is OEM and fairly young/flexible. Probably, simply pushing on the inside of the glass will cause it to come out gracefully but of course there is potential for breakage. Extra pairs of hands would likely help to distribute pressure across a larger area. Once out, then I'd take the whole assembly back apart and do the shaping of the trim as a first step of reassembly. From the photo, it looks like there is a too-sharp bend in the trim above the location of the gap, and a too-straight section of the trim just adjacent to the gap.
I too have heard of the block-of-wood method, but have never tried it. You would need to have a block of wood shaped just right and placed just right, and then you'd be using a hammer-like item next to your glass. If I tried that, I would use my rubber dead-blow hammer. |
The trim shaping trick with hammer and wood “block” after glass installation is done with something more like a narrowed paint stirring stick. You need to get under the trim and therefore the wood has to be thin and stiff. The trim itself is super fragile and you don’t want to be whacking on the top surface of it because you’ll dent the heck out of it. Same goes for pounding on a seal that isn’t fully seated in the body frame. Avoid the urge to hit it with the base of your palm because it likely will not push the seal further in like you hope to do, and you certainly will put a big dent in the trim.
I have to disagree that the fitment of the seal, specifically the outer flap falling into the body frame, is dictated by the trim alone. Yes the trim establishes the shape of how the seal outlines the glass and shaping the trim to the glass is very important. But there are occasions where even a very well-shaped trim & seal combo will have the outer flap falling into the body frame. The experienced pro installers use a non-hardening material like putty (another word for it in the industry was dum-dum) to build up the corners of the body frame where the seal rests. The dum dum prevents the glass from excessively sinking down into the frame, which draws in the outer flap too far |
Yup, dum dum putty is sometimes used, but it is not used as a sealant. Instead, as Kevin mentions, it is placed in the frame, in the corners at the base of where the gasket and glass will sit. It will prevent, as Kevin says, the assembly from sinking too far down into the frame.
I do feel pretty confident, however, that where the trim is properly shaped, the outer lip of the gasket will sit nicely against the body of the car outside the window frame, making a nice weathertight seal. The factory gasket is just barely wide enough to do this, but it is wide enough. The URO seal attempts to widen that outer lip a bit, which will work in theory but is not all the way necessary. And Kevin raises some good points about the wood block method. The wood would be a few inches wide, and would be curved just like the trim needs to be curved. I just would not try this method, frankly. With it, there would be multiple potential failure modes, all of which would be unacceptable to me. |
I have used a piece of cord on the edge of the glass inside the corner to push the corner out, impregnated the cord with non hardening silicone. Then i used a hardwood wedge on the trim piece to push it out till the lip covers the edge
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hey Uro...any news about the seal without the alu trimming
thanx Ivan |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif . |
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Pelican is showing Uro seal 911 541 225 04; is that the improved seal, or is it still unavailable?
Dho |
Hi Dho, pretty sure Pelican doesn't have a real-time supplier inventory feed, so if you order that seal it will unfortunately be cancelled.
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(Edited 11/17/22, corrected batch codes)
Good news everyone - Windshield Seal 911 541 225 03 / 91154122503 is back in stock! Only about (200) units from this production run, so don't delay if you've been patiently waiting to order one. Our current version of this seal (softer rubber with the wide lip) has batch code 7874 or higher in the bottom right corner of the URO label. *** FYI *** If you buy an old-version "NOS" URO seal at a swap meet or in the for-sale section, be aware that it's going to be harder rubber (even more so the older it gets) and have the same lip width as OEM, which means it won't be easy to install and you'll probably have gaps at the corners. As an example, batch 6781 is more than four years old, and well outside of our two-year warranty. Be sure to get the new version if you want to minimize installation challenges. |
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Where are these available for purchase? I recently bought from a shop in Arizona, but looks like the batch number is one of the older ones. I’ve been duped yet again. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669135201.jpg |
Hi guys, for some reason searching for part number 911 541 225 03 on Pelican's site doesn't bring up our seal, but if you search for interchange number 911 541 225 04, it works. They're currently working on getting our part number to show in the results.
In the meantime, here's a link to the cross-reference number (which is the same seal): https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/91154122504.htm?pn=911-541-225-04-M253. The two reviews are for the old version seal. |
If we order one from Pelican, its guaranteed to be from the latest production run?
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^ Pelican has been selling the updated version for a couple years now, so unless they somehow receive a NOS return from a customer and put it back into stock, they should be selling the current version (code 7874 or higher).
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thanks for the update URO
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Hi everyone, good news - the current estimated restock date for URO Parts wide-lip Windshield Seal 911 541 225 03 is the end of July 2024!
Tags: 91154122503, 911 541 225 04, 91154122504 |
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