ON a side note.......I just had a very old, and experience air-cooled mechanic tell me the "best" way to put in the windshield seal is.....put the trim in the new seal.......use a rope to then put the windshield into the seal/trim.....then use a rope to put the windshield/seal/trim into the car. He said this was the easiest way tom do it, and how they did it in the factory when we was there inn the 80's. I've never seen anyone do it that way. He said otherwise the train is a REAL PITA to get in once the glass is in the seal. Thoughts?

Yes, using a rope to install the trim/seal/windshield into the car is the common method for installing these. pretty much all the old rubber gasket installed windows go in wiith this method.

I think you missed Chris's main point 76FJ55. That is to first rope the glass into the seal which already has had the trim installed into. Then, once the glass has been installed into the seal/trim, rope the assembly into the car.

So, preinstall the trim into the seal. Install the trim/seal onto the glass with rope. Then install trim/seal/windshield assembly into car.

I have to admit, I've always first put the seal on the windshield. Then I would make my thumbs bleed installing the trim into a newly minted seal. Then, I would rope the windshield into the car. I will definitely give Chris's method a try next time.

Hi guys, Engineering sectioned a seal from our current inventory (code 11104), and the outer lip has the extra 3mm of width compared to OEM. Not sure why it looks like less in some photos, must be a camera angle or measuring difference.

Good to go!

I put the seal on the glass, them spray some silicone in the groove and work in the trim. Do it with the ball of your hand. run your fingers around the trim edge and any part that sticks out a bit, make sure it's seated. Flip the assembly upside down, lube the outer groove and insert the parachute cord and overlap a foot each way at the bottom. Can't picture putting the trim on the rubber and then putting it on the glass. seems like the trim would keep popping out. Been doing it that way since the 70s.

Just did this in my 1972 . .put the trim in the gasket first, then gasket to windshield, then used heavy coated electrical wire with lube in the slot . . first time no luck . . I was off 1/8" from center so . . mark center on body and new windshield carefully or you will get to the last side and it won't seat even though it looks like it should.

Hey guys, I haven't had a Porsche since my '87 and surprised to see that this post I started in 2018 with my review is still going.

Since I was suffering from withdrawal, I started sketching and creating artwork, then I thought I'd start a website and put them on t-shirts...

Check it out at https://rennform.com/
Sorry about the spam, but I just turned the site on, and I would love some feedback.

Thanks in advance!
ZK

Just a quick note that I just realized I had the system payments in test mode.
Sorry about this if any of you had trouble.

'It's up and running now.
Thank you

I'd like to order the upgraded seal. Pelican lists two part numbers: 911-541-225-04-M253 and 911-541-225-04-UR. Can someone tell me which one to order? Thanks!

Those are the same seals, Pelican simply has two different sources. It takes a bit of programming magic for electronic catalogs to filter out duplicates, and it's not always successful.

Thanks Uro!! Replacing the crappy poorly fitting seal has been one of my first goals with my SC

Does Uru have an updated real window seal as well?

I have 2 older uro seals and they both bunch up at the corners, especially beneath the window, causing a bulge that I can't seem to get rid of.

Hey Uroparts I have a late 89 911 Carrera Coupe which I believe uses the 964 seal due to a thicker flange. Do you have a different part number for my car?

I figured i would post this here instead of a dm to help others. I have a new windshield and seal from Porsche but want to try yours first if the overall coverage is an improvement over factory. Cheers

Hey Uroparts I have a late 89 911 Carrera Coupe which I believe uses the 964 seal due to a thicker flange. Do you have a different part number for my car?

I figured i would post this here instead of a dm to help others. I have a new windshield and seal from Porsche but want to try yours first if the overall coverage is an improvement over factory. Cheers

Hi Ab1752, are you looking at seal 964 541 225 00?

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uplo...1706880908.jpg

We checked the numbers and there are less than half as many 964's as there are buyers for the earlier seal, so unfortunately the tooling cost to make a 964 windshield seal is too high compared to potential sales. Wish it penciled out, but unfortunately it's not going to happen.

URO Windshield seal
 

I recently had my windshield out for a new dash. The old windshield was SO glued in, i didn't stand a chance to salvage it during removal. A few hours of intermittent glue removal over a period of about a month, the channel cleaned up very nicely. With my refurbished dash completed (shout out to Tony Garcia) , a new windshield, and URO seal in hand, I got the the windshield in very nicely (after 2 attempts). I opted for the URO in lieu of the factory seal and I am in full agreement that URO seal is an outstanding piece. You can clearly see the extended lip of the seal and it cover all of the corners nicely.



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Yep, that's the 964 seal for the larger 15mm pinch weld. The factory seal seems OK but thought I'd check to see if yours might work too. Thx

I have personally accomplished every facet of my 1983 SC restoration following 20 years in storage, with the exception of painting the bumpers and hood due to Hurricane damage. Rebuilt engine, transmission, brakes, etc. etc. Recently, just before Amelia Werks Reunion, the original factory installed front windshield seal was noted to have shrunk by about 0.5 mm away from the sheet metal along the top edge. I did not want to put a Band-Aid on it by sealing the opening. Over the course of the next few months, I and a friend struggled unsuccessfully to install a new Porsche brand seal without success. We read every article we could find on the subject and consulted a myriad of restoration shops and Porsche parts vendors to find out what we could possibly doing wrong. We carefully cut the old seal and gently removed the metal trim so as not to distort it. We made special tools to help with small adjustments to the metal trim should it be needed for tweaking. Our problem centered on the bottom edge of the Porsche windshield seal curling under the edge of the opening so severely that we could not get it into the frame opening. It appeared perfectly stretched correctly on the windshield. We even removed the metal trim as some suggested for a trial to check how the seal would fit in the opening. The bottom edge still curled so severely that we could not get it in position. I will not go into all the solutions we tried. Finally, after the seal tore on the third attempt to pull the cord along the bottom lip with the metal trim installed, we decided to try the new improved designed URO seal. It was far simpler to set up and place, BUT there were problems. The URO rubber did not appear as dense and robust as the Porsche Brand and we were not sure how well it would hold up over time. The Porsche Brand Seal lasted without problems of any kind for 43 years. Here is what we found.

We could not get the inside top of the URO seal to cover the headliner and clips as the Factory seal. It did cover a significant amount of the sheet metal, well beyond the actual opening edges. Also the top edge did not sit flush along the top edge of the body when the metal trim was installed to the same configuration as for the factory seal. It curled slightly upward at the edge, away from roof section. It appeared perfect before pulling the cord. What we noted was that the metal trim, adapted perfectly for the factory seal was not correct for the URO seal. Close observation of original factory photos suggested to us that the upper metal trim pieces set slightly below and inboard along the top of the metal frame. The URO seal required the shape be changed to allow it to sit higher and more outward to the metal frame along the top. This makes the inside of the URO sealing lip cover less of the headliner and clips. We were not happy with the result and elected to do whatever it took to find a shop that could do it correctly without damaging the paint. We very reluctantly admitted defeat and eventually found a Concours Collective Porsche restoration shop that did their own in-house window installations, after visiting several windshield installers who claimed they could do it correctly, but their results were less than ideal. The owner worked my car in over the course of a few days, so I wasn't able to be there to see what they did differently. We had been so methodical and never found a task that we couldn't perform on the SC until installing a new seam in the front windshield. I had installed windshield seals in my356 and replaced all the other glass seals in two 911s and 356 successfully to achieve a concours standard.
MAJOR COMMENT/FINDING> I was told repeatedly in my research that it did not matter if the seam for the factory seal was at the bottom or the top. I had noted that my original front seal was at the top from the factory and had been installed with adhesive. Most "authorities" stated that the factory did not use adhesive to install the windshields originally, but Luis Ruf confirmed that this was not accurate over all the years, and the factory workshop manual says to use adhesive when installing the seal, as it protects the small voids between the rubber and sheet metal from water pooling and leading to rust. I would not recommend using the factory adhesive prior to installing the windshield after our experiences. Waiting until it is in and you are perfectly satisfied, we found it was pretty easy to use small, curved tip syringes to inject it under the seal edges without making a mess. The Concours C Shop said it was absolutely critical, to get the seam oriented correctly to the windshield and he noted that [B]we had tried to install the seam at the bottom each time [B]we tried with the factory seal and that was our main problem. We had everything else correct for a perfect installation. He mentioned that the seals were not symmetrical as almost everyone claimed. He checks each seal on the windshield to see if the seam should be at the top or the bottom. He showed us that it did make a difference. He was not sure if there were some batches manufactured with the seam at the bottom but suspected there probably were. He also used a pretty thick braded nylon cord compared to all the threads and videos we had researched. He wrapped it twice rather than once, as per all the forums and threads we found. He said it was his least favorite Porsche project to do but couldn't source it out to glass shops to maintain the standard he needed. Classic Porsche Florida used an outside shop and our local Porsche dealer who has a glass installation shop in-house told me they didn't want to tackle it.
I attached photos of the windshield prior to removal as it came from the factory where you can see the seam is at the top and the frame is slightly inboard of the opening at the top rather than being slightly "Proud" *(outside) of the sheet metal opening. I also attached photos of the URO seal and the slight curling up we noted after pulling the cord. We did not want to start all over again so we went back with the Factory Seal, which should last another 40+ years.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1754798631.jpg
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Green masking tape is not the original color used by the factory. That’s why your installation was such a challenge. ;)

JUST KIDDING

Thanks for sharing your experiences and the information you gathered. It all adds up and helps folks figure things out.

Your mention of the sealant/adhesive is a good one for sure. When I did my windshield seal replacement a long time ago (had to be around 2003-2004), I found a slight amount of rust in the driver side bottom corner. Water was clearly getting in there and sitting. Had my car not been what would seem to have been an only-driven-in-nice-weather, never seen Midwest winter/salt, I think the rust would have been much worse.

More noteworthy is the fact that my windshield was not original Sigla glass. It was a Pilkington replacement. I believe whoever replaced the windshield reused the original seal, which is a very bad thing to do, and that contributed to the problem. Honestly, what prompted me to replace the seal was the wind noise. I could drive along at moderate speed, push out on the glass with not much effort and the wind noise would drastically change.

When I removed the windshield, it was so easy to push out of the car, it was nuts. My buddy Mark (RIP, best friend I’ve ever had) laughed at the whole situation. But I made it right so it was no big deal. I chose to use sealant on the reinstall because of the rust I found. The amount used is not a lot. You’re really just filling in small gap areas and it’s not necessary all the way around the seal, top to bottom.

I used 3M Windo Weld, which is actually for glass that requires bonding it to the car body opening. That may sound like extreme overkill but I don’t think so. The resulting cured, flexible urethane/rubber material is easy to remove with careful use of a razor and 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover (some folks might know this as Eastwood PRE Painting Prep solvent- they are the same smell/formula) and it quickly dissolves the cured adhesive.

Fast forward about 10 years, Mark passes away far too young, I obtain his car to “keep it in the family.” His ‘86 911 is what turned me on to these cars and it only seemed right to hang on to his car. Anyway, point of sharing his car is I then start fixing up some things on it and wouldn’t you know it, deja vu occurs. Wind noise, push on it makes it worse, gotta replace the seal. Huh, go figure!

I guess the windshield in my car actually wasn’t the big F-up we thought it was? I’d be lying if I didn’t admit I shed a tear (or more) and some smiles doing that windshield remove & reinstall. Pushed right out way too easy, just like I remembered! It sure would have been a lot more fun to have done that job, laughing and/or swearing along the way with my friend……. :(

I really apologize for the double post. But, this thread may also have relevant info and visibility.

Last year, I purchased the redesigned seal URO batch#11104. (see post #138)
I am finally installing my windshield and notice my seal has a big bonding seam.
My initial question was whether it should be on top or bottom.
But, I also realize I have not seen such a big blob in other pics. Is this normal for this seal?

Other semi-duplicate post:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1129917-report-new-uro-windshield-seal-7.html#post12521209

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