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How to lower 912 front suspension?
The answer may be obvious but I'm not seeing it. I know how to lower the rear but how to lower the front. I'm thinking no lower than an inch. Thanks.
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UNDER CONSTRUCTION!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ALASKA
Posts: 1,508
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hello
the front is fairly easy to lower there is a grub screw that pushes on a torsion key that you can back down to lower the front. if your car is level and drives straight i would mark and count rotations so you can go back and keep things level. if you search in the 911 tech section you will find quite a bit of traffic on this subject. you will need to have a alignment and final adjustments after you lower the car. have fun!! cheers ed
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Sometimes the first thing that comes to mind should be the last thing that you do! ![]() |
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Left coast of North America
Posts: 287
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along with significant lowering, consider adjusting the steering rack height as well, to prevent wheel kick back due to altered geometry of the suspension parts. You can buy inexpensive kits to do this such as the Weltmeister Bump Steer Kit
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Rick Becker 912 owner since 1977 PCA 912 & 912E Register Advocate, 912 Registry Member #0001 http://912register.pca.org | www.facebook.com/PCA912Register | Twitter: @PCA912Register Last edited by Rick Becker; 04-16-2010 at 09:05 PM.. |
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Something's wrong
What does it mean if I backed off the bolts and the front does not lower? There is just a gap now between the bold and the torsion key.
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Spring, Texas
Posts: 80
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Here's a stupid question.... is the car on the ground on it's wheels? If it's jacked up there will be a gap.
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Brgds, Peter Baldauf 1967 912 1988 911 vert 944 TS 1969 911 E 1956 356 Conti 1983 911 SC |
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Wheels are on and it is off the jack, still a gap.
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Max Sluiter
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Did you bounce the front to settle it? Rubber bushings require a drive around the block to get the car settled before assesing the amount of drop achieved.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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I did bounce on it. Maybe I'll give it more time.
Thanks.
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"The goal isn't to live forever, the goal is to create something that does." |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SW Michigan
Posts: 97
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Did it settle down?
If not it's possible that the suspensions has been apart in the past and assembled incorrectly - at least for your desired ride height... Similar to the way the rear adjuster plates go on the end of the torsion bars so do the 'change levers' (#14) on the front. The adjuster screw (#15) is what you have backed out. ![]() Here's mine, front wheel opening is 25.25" and the rear is 24.75". Tires are 205/60-15's all around. ![]() |
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: PRESCOTT AZ
Posts: 39
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Hey all,
You are missing (1) step. The most important. First thing that should be done is loosen bolt #2 shown in the diagram. This bolt not only bolts the crossmember to the body, it also pinches on bushing #8 to secure it from rotating. On my car it toke a little extra bouncing to loosen the pinch on the bushing. When you get the height where you want it, then retighten bolt #2. As the others have said, a bump steer kit and realignment will be necessary. PS I wouldn't go 'too low', those steep driveways are a ***** on your front spoiler...
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