914 rear trunk lid - several questions

[porschesix]

I would appreciate hearing from someone who can answer a few questions re the rear trunk. (1) is there an adjustment in the hinge to bring one side of the trunk lower. The right side edge - where it runs along the top of the fender is high along the entire length. (2) what is the process for replacing the nylon rollers that run underneath the tension rods? Thanks!

[WOODPIE]

I'll take a stab at this one! There is no adjustment to the trunk hinge other than the possible shimming with some thin material, and some minor front-to-rear adjustment made when tightening the fasteners. The nylon rollers can be replaced and there was even a fellow who designed a tool for doing this safely, or at least, more safely. The spring is very strong and can hurt you (ask Dave Darling), but the basic idea is to push the spring down just far enough to remove the old roller and slip the new one on. Most people use an appropriately sized deep-well socket with an extension for leverage. BE CAREFUL!

The misalignment you speak of is, sadly, probably not going to be remedied by either shimming or new rollers. At least that is my guess, as I, too, own a trunk lid that is higher than the fender line, though mine is on the left side. The cause of this is a loose, worn out, or broken pivot hinge. My trunk doesn't seat correctly because the previous owner installed a new hinge with pop rivets, which over the years have worked loose under the strain of the above-mentioned springs. Take a closer look at yours to determine the problem.

Ed

[Scooter311]

I concur with Ed - mine was higher on the driver's side, and I had to contort myself to hack new welds on it. I think that's really the only way to fix it right. Also, some have removed those springs altogether, and installed a 'trunk shock kit' which gets rid of those consarned springs altogether.
My trunklid was under so much stress, you could launch a cabbage over the roof.

Welcome to the board!
Jeff

ps more people should say 'concur' and 'contort' and 'consarned'

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

There are aftermarket pivot kits available that allow some range of adjustment. They look like good parts to my eye, but I don't know anyone who has tried them yet.

http://www.jwesteng.com

Pelican will hopefully be carrying these soon.

--DD

[porschesix]

thanks to all for the prompt and informative responses. I talked with George at Auto Atlanta today - his opinion was that the pivot cup was likely broken, collapsed or disfigured in some way. He was right - the cup is somewhat collapsed with a crease. I appreciate the options offered to fix it, but as poor as the factory design is, I'll opt for a new cup since that's the way the factory screwed it together and I'm a nut on originality. Thanks too for the 'welcome'. My new purchase is a 914/6 - I last had one from 1972 - 1976 and unfortunately had to use it daily, ungaraged, and in New England and watched it rust away even though it was still almost new back them. This time I'm starting with a rust-free example that spent its entire life in California. As to other Porsche's, I've owned four 911's in the past - a 95, 96, 97 and 98 (guess that covers the 993 series cars!), but they just don't work for me as a special car and I grew bored with each. Lots of other cars in between - perhaps another posting. Anyway, two trips around the block with the 914/6 and I'm 'home' again!!

[WOODPIE]

Glad we could help. Even with your extensive Porsche experience, I find it gratifying that you favor the 914 over the others you've owned. It's great to be home!

There is probably still a lot for you to re-aquaint yourself with, with the car and numerous support groups. Ahem.

Anyone else con carni, er, concur?

Ed

[lmcchesney]

Welcome again to the board.
The rear of the trunk lid seats against two rubber stops. These stops can be screwed in or out to aling the trunk seat.
The plastic rollers can be changed to brass rollers cheaply. There are several described methods to gain movement of the trunk spring, including the Ricky-Do tool, filing the end of a floor jack handle and deep 7mm socket. After struggling with absence of the spring use for years, I tried all but the Ricky-Do. I finally found that using two vice grips locked onto the transverse portion of the rod spring allowed for leverage to move the spring. Easy and readily available, but more important, safe.
Good luck,
L. McC

[MarkRobinson]

My trunk hinge broke free of the body recently: I have a good welder down the street to repair the tack-weld: do I need to decommission the torsion springs first for adequate access?

Thanks (Dave!)

Mark

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

You'll want to at least unhook the spring from the roller and pivot on the side that's being replaced. Best not to have tension on the new one when you're positioning and welding it in.

--DD

[MarkRobinson]

Gotcha: thanks again Dave.

[URY914]

I drilled a few holes and ran a couple of sheet metal screws to hold the pivot in the correct location so I could weld it properly.